Wal-Mart bike

BarelyAWake said:
Defo - sorry to hear of yer scooter woes :( but I gotta say these lil Chinese in-frame kits are a "roll of the dice" ofc, while the Schwinn's keeps kickin' there's no guarantees *shrug* Although they're so easy to work on and replacements so cheap (once "spring fever" is over) that it doesn't really matter... in the case of a major failure I doubt I'd bother fixing the engine, replacing the top end isn't much cheaper than jus' replacing the motor ;)
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True i like fixing stuff if i'm able tho.

I'd rather not throw an engine away and buy a new one if i can just replace a failed part.

But from what I've been reading. some of these motors have alot of miles on em.

The chinese scoot that blew up on me had under 5k miles on it.

So yeah if i get anywhere near 5k miles I'll be happy as can be!
 
That's defo valid & if I loved the Schwinn at all I'd prolly be more inclined to tinker on it instead of replacement if something went wrong - but these things are an addiction heh & I'm workin' on my fourth project now w/the Schwinn as my "winter beater" & trail hog, heck I never even bother to wash the thing lol

It occurred to me to mention what I think is one of the primary causes of unreliability & failure, interestingly it's not the motor itself - it's the rear sprocket. The stock "rag joint" method of putting a rear sprocket on by clamping it to 1/2 the spokes results in a near impossibility of actually getting it properly centered, this can result in a pulsating "hammer" effect on the motor and it's mounts as the chain loosens & tightens at speed.

While the engine mounts should be firm & tight w/o any "soft" material (rubber/inner tube w/e) as that worsens the movement & strains fasteners - an off center rear sprocket will shorten the build's longevity significantly. While the Schwinn's is still the stock "rag joint" - I spent a disproportionate amount of time getting it as aligned as humanly possible... and TBH it's still a lil off.

Although I've never gotten around to it as I've been distracted by other toys, I defo recommend one of the aluminum sprocket adapters to sidestep this problem entirely - the stock sprocket is the only thing I really dislike about that particular bike ;)
 
Reading through this thread it seems you got plenty advice and you're mind made up so good luck with it.

29er is just another way of saying wide rim 700c though and the best way to insure a good fit on a bike if you're tall and lanky is frame size and crank arm length.
 
BarelyAWake said:
That's defo valid & if I loved the Schwinn at all I'd prolly be more inclined to tinker on it instead of replacement if something went wrong - but these things are an addiction heh & I'm workin' on my fourth project now w/the Schwinn as my "winter beater" & trail hog, heck I never even bother to wash the thing lol

It occurred to me to mention what I think is one of the primary causes of unreliability & failure, interestingly it's not the motor itself - it's the rear sprocket. The stock "rag joint" method of putting a rear sprocket on by clamping it to 1/2 the spokes results in a near impossibility of actually getting it properly centered, this can result in a pulsating "hammer" effect on the motor and it's mounts as the chain loosens & tightens at speed.

While the engine mounts should be firm & tight w/o any "soft" material (rubber/inner tube w/e) as that worsens the movement & strains fasteners - an off center rear sprocket will shorten the build's longevity significantly. While the Schwinn's is still the stock "rag joint" - I spent a disproportionate amount of time getting it as aligned as humanly possible... and TBH it's still a lil off.

Although I've never gotten around to it as I've been distracted by other toys, I defo recommend one of the aluminum sprocket adapters to sidestep this problem entirely - the stock sprocket is the only thing I really dislike about that particular bike ;)
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I thought the rag would become a problem.
I was planning on finding a way to bolt it onto the hub directly without the spokes being involved
Maybe through a kit or something else i dont know but I can see how it would be a problem
 
Newbikers said:
well gas is 4$ a gallon here and i dont live near anyone who needs their lawn mowed

and even if they did they would do it themselves lol
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Even this middle aged kid has a limited allowance for new toys. I'm going through some of my older toys to see what I can sell on eBay to free up some more money for this project. It's looking to be 2x as expensive as I originally planned. :P
 
Since you guys seem to be serious about my bike .... I'm gonna take some pics of my build. It's about a year old with 2500 or so motorized miles on the frame. Currently the bike is in between motors. It HAD a bgf kit ... 41t rear. Kit bolted straight on to the frame without issue. There is a bit of a chain clearance issue.... Guess I'll finally take care of that too, but HEY, you get to see it. A narrower rear tire should solve that issue, or may be I'll just spread the back a bit. The rubbing is MINIMAL.

Settled.. Finally... Engine 2 is gonna be a 2010 GT5 Skyhawk. Managed to get a whole kit for $120 shipped. Another $40 And I'll have 2 complete setups. Didn't really want to spend This much but its worth it. Next time I'll just buy some spares in the winter when the price is lower. Grubee kit is supposed to come with narrower chain right?? That in itself may solve my chain rub.
 
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nextpimp said:
Since you guys seem to be serious about my bike .... I'm gonna take some pics of my build. It's about a year old with 2500 or so motorized miles on the frame. Currently the bike is in between motors. It HAD a bgf kit ... 41t rear. Kit bolted straight on to the frame without issue. There is a bit of a chain clearance issue.... Guess I'll finally take care of that too, but HEY, you get to see it. A narrower rear tire should solve that issue, or may be I'll just spread the back a bit. The rubbing is MINIMAL.

Settled.. Finally... Engine 2 is gonna be a 2010 GT5 Skyhawk. Managed to get a whole kit for $120 shipped. Another $40 And I'll have 2 complete setups. Didn't really want to spend This much but its worth it. Next time I'll just buy some spares in the winter when the price is lower. Grubee kit is supposed to come with narrower chain right?? That in itself may solve my chain rub.
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Hmm. thanks for the heads up.
Sounds to me like it's rubbing the tire and back chain stay?
 
Where did you find the gt5 shipped for $120 , I am def interested ! Please let me know .... post or message me. I can't seem to find a decent kit now shipped for under $160 at best !

Good thread .... good build info !
 
nextpimp said:
Settled.. Finally... Engine 2 is gonna be a 2010 GT5 Skyhawk. Managed to get a whole kit for $120 shipped. Another $40 And I'll have 2 complete setups. Didn't really want to spend This much but its worth it. Next time I'll just buy some spares in the winter when the price is lower. Grubee kit is supposed to come with narrower chain right?? That in itself may solve my chain rub.
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I would also like to know where you are getting a GT5 for that price.

As for the chain width... Yes the kits come standard with the 410 narrow chain but if you are planning to use a sprocket adapter then you will have to allow for the 410 HD chain as both mfrs of adapters cut the sprockets for this chain only.

Overall I like the 415 better if you can make it work because it is less likely to stretch and get side slap that can rub tire to shreads and cut any frame to pieces fast especially if it aluminum.

You can gr 1/8 and 1/4" hub axle spacers to stretch out the frame to allow a little extra room at most bike shops for a couple dollars. I personally had to use an 1/8" spacer and go down from 2.250" tires to 1.950" to get the clearance right on both sides of the chain for my Cranbrook. Even then with the rag joint it was a close fit against the frame and only made better when I went to sprocket adapter to be able to align the chain properly on the drive sprocket .
 
mark , zombie , looked at your page .... the pick of the cable jumping out .... why don't they just make something to secure that in ???? really ?? I had to use elec. tape !
 
I think you are speaking of the problem of the choke cable coming out of its seat causing a rich condition in this thread...

My understanding is that Grubee is working on a fix for the condition to include in later versions of the CNSv2 carburetor and the next generation of kit. In the mean time I have gone back to the CNSv1 carb and rerouted the cables to where the rull directly from the top and zip tied the cables so they cannot jump out of the ferrule.
 
Mark , yes , they have addressed the prob on the CNSv2 , look on the grubee website , go to skyhawk info , click on 2011 skyhawk installation pdf , they state right there that the prob has been fixed and the new carb can lock the cables into the journals ....but they still will not admit that it was ever a problem ....lol
 
greggasbike said:
Mark , yes , they have addressed the prob on the CNSv2 , look on the grubee website , go to skyhawk info , click on 2011 skyhawk installation pdf , they state right there that the prob has been fixed and the new carb can lock the cables into the journals ....but they still will not admit that it was ever a problem ....lol
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so will my new engine have this problem?
how can i fix it

i just ordered the standard 66cc from piston bikes
 
Thats interesting I didnt know they had already addressed the issue. I guess what will happen is that they will not retro fit the kits dealers still have that do not have the retainers they will sell the existing stock as it is... Problem is that most of the dealers still have 2010 kits and are not selling the newest stock yet.
I am just hoping they get the CNSv2 carb running better than the early versions did because they are discontinuing the CNSv1 series that ran so well.
 
Newbikers said:
so will my new engine have this problem?
how can i fix it

i just ordered the standard 66cc from piston bikes
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Depends on what carb you are getting with the kit. If it is an NT carb then no you will not have this problem because it does not have a remote choke. If you are getting a CNSv2 made in 2010 then yes you can have this problem. Like I said I zip tied mine but have since changed to the CNSv1 with a ported performance intake and no longer have the issue.
 
MarkSumpter said:
Depends on what carb you are getting with the kit. If it is an NT carb then no you will not have this problem. If you are getting a CNSv2 made in 2010 then yes you can have this problem. Like I said I zip tied mine but have since changed to the CNSv1 with a ported performance intake and no longer have the issue.
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ok also do you know if piston bikes will give any kind of engine warranty?
 
Newbikers said:
ok also do you know if piston bikes will give any kind of engine warranty?
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I know Robert at Piston Bikes has a warranty but what it is I really dont know. The cable issue is really a minor annoyance. Just route your cables where that are directly over the carb and tie them up as close to the frame as you can get them with the least amount of slack.
 
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