Wal-Mart bike

[Newbikers]

heres that mount. i roll a tube that the id is the same as the od of the downtube cut it in two weld the mount tab to it then clamp it to the frame with industrial nut clamps not the cheesy regular hose clamps. solid!!

I dont have a welder.
Any chance you could make some and mail me em?
How much would that cost

 

[Newbikers]

The first thing I would replace is the seat. My butt isn't used to a racing seat any more.

I found this graphic that shows both your white version and the current orange version. Besides the obvious color difference, there are some subtle differences in the frame. Looks like your version has a slightly longer wheel base:

Edit: had to post the two images separately, the forums don't support GIF animation apparently.

wow very good observation

another thing i noticed is different components including the disc brake and the derailleurs

 

[gobigkahuna]

@Newbikers - Have you thought about what you'll do about the derailleur shifters and brakes?

 

[Newbikers]

@Newbikers - Have you thought about what you'll do about the derailleur shifters and brakes?

I'll just keep them on there

They are good and i like them. Might have to come up with some place for the clutch lever tho

 

[gobigkahuna]

Might have to come up with some place for the clutch lever tho

Yeah, that's what I was thinking.

Edit: Well, I did it. I pulled the trigger on the orange 29er. Should be here in a week or two. The price was between $150 and $400 less than other stores for the exact same bike, the shipping is free and I have 90 days to return it if I'm not happy with it. Hard to say no to a deal like that.

 

[flybytaco]

it would be kinda hard without the bike to make it unless i go out n buy one lol

 

[scotto-]

Yeah, that's what I was thinking.

Edit: Well, I did it. I pulled the trigger on the orange 29er. Should be here in a week or two. The price was between $150 and $400 less than other stores for the exact same bike, the shipping is free and I have 90 days to return it if I'm not happy with it. Hard to say no to a deal like that.

Yeah, we have one white one at a local Walmart here for $199, but I don't think I can fit a 4-stroke motor in it, it's just a little too tight.

I'm waiting for the black Onyx cruiser to come in for $150.....that is a good deal, just need to put some brakes on it.

 

[gobigkahuna]

@scotto - What about a 66cc 2 stroke? I don't have access to the bike so I can't measure it but I'm assuming that'll fit.

I was torn between the Onyx and this one. I opted for this one because I think it'll end up costing less in the long run.

 

[Newbikers]

@scotto - What about a 66cc 2 stroke? I don't have access to the bike so I can't measure it but I'm assuming that'll fit.

I was torn between the Onyx and this one. I opted for this one because I think it'll end up costing less in the long run.

I think it will work but we will have to come up with a mount
I'll probably end up making a mount myself from parts at lowe's


Edit: and i'm almost done truing the front disc.
It was alittle out of shape but i am bending it back slowly by slowly into true


Swapping the seat and tires wouldn't be a bad idea either

 

[Newbikers]

down tube is 1.65 inches

seat tube is 1.4 inches

going to buy this adapter for the down tube because it fits 1.5 to 2 inch down tubes

ordering my engine tonight.

i'm going to lowes and buying some steel pipe
i will back the adapter with half a steel pipe so it wont bend my frame.

 

[Newbikers]

Ok ordered my engine

Getting the Grubee Standard 80/66cc Sky Hawk Silver Bicycle Motor Kit
and the SBP Front Motor Mount Kit

Total shipping and everything from UPS was $205.35

So I have about 395$ invested sofar.

 

[GearNut]

Definitely reenforce that SBP front mount with some steel tubing between the clamp and the bike frame. That style clamp is known to pinch and eventually shear aluminum frame tubing. Don't get me wrong, it's a very strong mount, it just needs to be massaged a bit to work decently with aluminum frames.

FWIW, I still cringe at the thought of using an aluminum bike, but others have been successful with them.

 

[Newbikers]

Definitely reenforce that SBP front mount with some steel tubing between the clamp and the bike frame. That style clamp is known to pinch and eventually shear aluminum frame tubing. Don't get me wrong, it's a very strong mount, it just needs to be massaged a bit to work decently with aluminum frames.

FWIW, I still cringe at the thought of using an aluminum bike, but others have been successful with them.

Owell it's only 200$
I'm not afraid

I will reinforce it with steel. i'm making a trip to lowe's as soon as the kit gets here to buy the reinforcements

 

[GearNut]

I recommend a section of thick wall tubing, not EMT conduit as it is too soft, that will fit nearly perfectly to the frame when cut lengthwise wise. You are making a clam shell type of adapter here.
Hmmmm... a section of steel fence post may be thick enough and close enough in diameter.....

 

[Newbikers]

I recommend a section of thick wall tubing, not EMT conduit as it is too soft, that will fit nearly perfectly to the frame when cut lengthwise wise. You are making a clam shell type of adapter here.
Hmmmm... a section of steel fence post may be thick enough and close enough in diameter.....

Ya i know what your talking about
Like a pipe cut down the middle

Then you just lay the pipe over the frame.
So when the small U bolt is clamping it has more surface area so the aluminum does not crush from alot of pressure in 1 spot.

Makes alot of sense and I dont see many people doing it on aluminum frames but I will be.

 

[BarelyAWake]

I very much recommend Gearnut's suggestion w/any U bolt clamp on any bike, steel or aluminum - here's some I made for a shift kit's three rearmost clamps ("pads" later tack welded to the clamps), they've worked very well;



As for motorized aluminum bikes, as with anything I believe it depends on the bike's quality more than the material, specifically the welds and how well the motor has been installed.

While by no means a "top shelf" bike, my first build was a $200 Chinese Schwinn Aluminum Comp, purchased very much because it's beautiful welds & gusseting. While all the peripherals (crankset, shifters, derailleurs etc) have been somewhat annoying due to their low quality & constant maintenance & the single wall aluminum rims so soft as to be hazardous - the frame itself has put up with my abuses for well over seven thousand miles now;



I believe aluminum bikes make for fine motor candidates, the above only a problem as the motor didn't fit within the frame (prolly not an issue w/yers) - so long as care is taken to install the engine properly (no movement), refraining from drilling any additional holes in the frame and doing your best to minimize chafe (partic drive chain)...

That dang Schwinn o'mine jus' won't quit lol & the lessened weight makes for a nice, lively MB.

 

[Newbikers]

I very much recommend Gearnut's suggestion w/any U bolt clamp on any bike, steel or aluminum - here's some I made for a shift kit's three rearmost clamps ("pads" later tack welded to the clamps), they've worked very well;



As for motorized aluminum bikes, as with anything I believe it depends on the bike's quality more than the material, specifically the welds and how well the motor has been installed.

While by no means a "top shelf" bike, my first build was a $200 Chinese Schwinn Aluminum Comp, purchased very much because it's beautiful welds & gusseting. While all the peripherals (crankset, shifters, derailleurs etc) have been somewhat annoying due to their low quality & constant maintenance & the single wall aluminum rims so soft as to be hazardous - the frame itself has put up with my abuses for well over seven thousand miles now;



I believe aluminum bikes make for fine motor candidates, the above only a problem as the motor didn't fit within the frame (prolly not an issue w/yers) - so long as care is taken to install the engine properly (no movement), refraining from drilling any additional holes in the frame and doing your best to minimize chafe (partic drive chain)...

That dang Schwinn o'mine jus' won't quit lol & the lessened weight makes for a nice, lively MB.

Awesome post man
I love the bike i love the brackets

I can only hope my bike does as well as yours
How much major problems have you had with the engine in the 7k miles?

This has got me really pumped up!


Edit:

How did you make those pads?
Thanks

 

[BarelyAWake]

Thanks lol

Engine problems? Well... oddly not many It's a "generic" 66cc and it's pretty much been jus' the same basic issues we all have, fasteners loosening from time to time (manly head, intake & exhaust) & that is ofc reduced in frequency (but not eliminated) with the use of loctite (blue) lock washers or nylocs (depending on location/heat), and ofc chain wear/stretch. I suspect the compression isn't what it used to be... but there's not been enough of a loss for me to care TBH.

The "worst" problems I've had w/it is my original NT carby was miscast and developed a hairline fracture (replaced fer less than $20) and I left it sit all one summer as I rode another build, during that time the bearing seal behind the clutch started weeping and contaminated the pads - I just cleaned it out thoroughly w/some carb cleaner and after some use, the seal miraculously "healed" itself and stopped leaking, after another cleaning the pads stopped slipping too

Other than that... tires... lotsa tiresl - tho I s'pose that's got nothing to do w/the engine's reliability lolz

Not that I'm suggesting or recommending it, but just FYI - the first 1500 miles or so I ran the thing on 50:1 Amsoil 'Injector' synthetic, then switched it to 100:1 Amsoil 'Saber' (mixed at about 90:1) - not tryin' to say that's why it's lasted so long... but it doesn't look like it's hurt it's longevity any heh

edit: missed the question of how I made the pads, sorry... they're jus' chunks of "black iron" pipe (typical thick walled mild steel) wthe same ID as my frame's OD, cut in half & ground down a hair to fit, then tack welded to the clamp;

 

[Newbikers]

Thanks lol

Engine problems? Well... oddly not many It's a "generic" 66cc and it's pretty much been jus' the same basic issues we all have, fasteners loosening from time to time (manly head, intake & exhaust) & that is ofc reduced in frequency (but not eliminated) with the use of loctite (blue) lock washers or nylocs (depending on location/heat), and ofc chain wear/stretch. I suspect the compression isn't what it used to be... but there's not been enough of a loss for me to care TBH.

The "worst" problems I've had w/it is my original NT carby was miscast and developed a hairline fracture (replaced fer less than $20) and I left it sit all one summer as I rode another build, during that time the bearing seal behind the clutch started weeping and contaminated the pads - I just cleaned it out thoroughly w/some carb cleaner and after some use, the seal miraculously "healed" itself and stopped leaking, after another cleaning the pads stopped slipping too

Other than that... tires... lotsa tiresl - tho I s'pose that's got nothing to do w/the engine's reliability lolz

Not that I'm suggesting or recommending it, but just FYI - the first 1500 miles or so I ran the thing on 50:1 Amsoil 'Injector' synthetic, then switched it to 100:1 Amsoil 'Saber' (mixed at about 90:1) - not tryin' to say that's why it's lasted so long... but it doesn't look like it's hurt it's longevity any heh

edit: missed the question of how I made the pads, sorry... they're jus' chunks of "black iron" pipe (typical thick walled mild steel) wthe same ID as my frame's OD, cut in half & ground down a hair to fit, then tack welded to the clamp;

Dang very very nice.
I am going to make those ASAP.

I love hearing about your good fortune
I had a 150cc chinese scooter & the exhaust valve dropped
Fell into the cylinder and destroyed the piston

The piston was made out of aluminum and so was the head. so when the valve dropped naturally the steel valve WON.

The piston and head were destroyed beyond recognition and not usable so i went to replace the head/piston/cylinder and found myself looking at over 300$ in parts

Well needless to say that was to much for me.
So i sold the scooter and bought this china bike and ordered my china engine tonight

1 thing i noticed is that parts for this china engine are cheap as dirt.
you can get new heads and cylinders for pennies on the dollar practically.

Alot cheaper then a scooter and seems like it will be alot less money to maintain.

 

[BarelyAWake]

Defo - sorry to hear of yer scooter woes but I gotta say these lil Chinese in-frame kits are a "roll of the dice" ofc, while the Schwinn's keeps kickin' there's no guarantees *shrug* Although they're so easy to work on and replacements so cheap (once "spring fever" is over) that it doesn't really matter... in the case of a major failure I doubt I'd bother fixing the engine, replacing the top end isn't much cheaper than jus' replacing the motor