Villiers beach cruiser

[harry76]

Just got back from my trip to get the pulley and visit the metal recyclers. Well the metal recyclers werent there any more :-( and when i went to the place that does pulleys and sprockets etc, they said you cant get a threaded pulley. It took me a while to get the guy to understand what i wanted. Once i did, he was very helpful. I got a 100mm pulley that had a smaller hole then my shaft. So he told me of a cheap machine shop to visit to put a thread in it. He even handed it to me and said fix him up once i know its the right one. Thats cool but i said id prefer to just pay for it now (it was only $20). And the pulley is wider then my threaded section so it will need to be bored part way and then threaded which will actually move it closer to the bike which is a plus. Ill pick it up from the machine shop tommorrow and post pics.

 

[harry76]

And once the pulley is on ill know how far my sheave is from my wheel and be able to make the brackets when i go back to work next week. And once my motor is fitted and sheave is on ill be able to get an exact measurement for my v belt. Does anyone know how much bigger the belt should be to allow for the belt to slip when hand clutch isnt engaged but not too big that it would jump off the pulleys? Maybe Mrsfan may know the answer to that one.

 

[msrfan]

If this is a point ignition system, interupt the wire going from the points to the coil with a kill button on the bars.

 

[fasteddy]

Why is it that the fellow who thinks his metal is equal to gold is still there and the metal recycler is gone. Another one of lifes mysteries.
Maybe now the metal recycler is gone he feels he can ask what he wants.

Glad you got your pulley figured out. It will be interesting to see how it all lines up.

Found a hand book that has the engine operations in it with a parts section. They want me to part with $35 to get it here. They did have a page open to show the motors and I saw that one had a rope start and the other one it said to wrap the strap around the fly wheel and pull it to start. Wouder what the strap looked like.
I think I'll email them and make sure that it is the right manuel for our motors.

Steve.

 

[fasteddy]

msrfan, yes this a points system with a magneto. Can you ground it without messing up the coils?

Steve.

 

[harry76]

My motor had a rope pull start attachment where my pulley will go. I realise i may be able to bumpstart it by riding and engaging the clutch but it would be handy to be able to start it on the spot. It never even crossed my mind to use the flywheel. Weve got tie down straps (about 2" wide) at work for loading trucks and i can get some free. Im thinking if i just wrapped it around the flywheel a few times to grip it may start it. But i wonder if it started and still had a few coils wrapped around the flywheel it could get tangled. I guess the key would be the right length of strap (long enough to get a grip, but not too long that it would tangle up). Do you guys think that would work or just dangerous?

 

[fasteddy]

It should just spin the strap off since it is turning in the same direction. I did see somewhere in my travels that you could put your foot on the fly wheel and spin it over that way.
Might get interesting in a hurry if your shoe lace gets caught. I'll probably have the directions before you are ready to start it so we'll know what to do.

Steve.

 

[silverbear]

What an interesting adventure these motors are. A kill switch would be handy if accessible at the handlebar rather than reaching down blind to the spring metal type at the spark plug. What would have been the purpose of the compression valve?
Harry, I looked over the ebay offerings in Australia the other day for both stationary engines and vintage lawnmowers and it looked to me like the mowers were cheaper than buying just the engine. I noticed on the British ebay that these engines were also used on cultivators and pumps, so that might be another option to explore. No doubt they are around and my guess is that once you are seen tooling around on your cool ride, somebody will say they have an old motor like that on a mower in the back shed that hasn't been run in years. This is where you say you might be willing to give something for it so you have spare parts... heh heh heh. They will appear.
SB

 

[msrfan]

I mentioned the point wire because that's how some old motors I've seen did it. A double wire on the same terminal of the coil, one going to the points, and the other to a grounding switch. Maybe the manual will show the correct way.

 

[harry76]

The machinist hadnt finished the pulley when i went yesterday. He said he couldnt find a tap for the thread on the shaft and was having to machine one in. Hopefully today, this time ill call before making the drive.
SB ive noticed that the mowers go cheaper then what the motors do. And you get all the other parts that come with it. I havent put much thought into what i could use. But im sure ill be able to in future builds. Or maybe even this one if i somehow use the kickstart. I found the manual for the mower that shows the parts. If you can see it clear enough.

 

[fasteddy]

Hi Harry,
SB's computer crashed so he may not visit as much as he was. Glad you found a operators manuel. All that I have seen are the wrong ones.

Not surprised that the machinist had to cut the treads. They may have been the old British Standard Whitworth threads.
I used to have a separate tool box full of tools to repair my cars at one time.

Not surprised that the mowers go cheaper. Think it's because they want to get rid of the lump of metal all at once instead of bit and pieces.

Just missed the carb in England. Forgot to check where my bid was compared to the offers. With luck there will be others.

Any luck on the metal gathering front?

Steve.

 

[harry76]

Yeah i found metal and alloy for my Indian project but no steel for my tank as of yet. I looked at cutting the mower catcher, that could work and its free.

I picked up my pulley. This should do the trick i think. And as you can see the pulley is sort of stepped in moving it closer, which will help with the sheave. It goes without saying that ill get rid of the pink spray paint that came on the pulley.

 

[fasteddy]

I'm impressed with the quality of your pulley. Wasn't sure just what it would take and that one looks first rate.

Nice to see the motor up close like that.

The pulley does step in nicely and still looks to clear the engine and yes the pink does leave something to be desired.

Steve.

 

[harry76]

Just hope i didnt go too big on that front pulley. I suppose i will find out. Im starting to think i may have as the bikes ive looked at since dont have that big of a front pulley. Maybe ill set some land speed records with it LOL

 

[harry76]

Mounted the engine tonight. Tackwelded the engine mounts and just need shorter bolts.

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[Bike Monster]

what kind of engine is that??? and how many cc's????

 

[Mike B]

Nice job!

That thing looks sweet -

 

[fasteddy]

It's a Villiers 2 stroke and 98cc. They also made 4 strokes
These motors are off lawnmowers called Atco's but the Villiers motors were on many other mowers and different machinery such as generators and water pumps.
The British Briggs and Stratton.

They were also the makers of engines for motorcycles like BSA, Francis Barnett, James and DOT.

Great motors in my mind since I had a few English motorcycles when I was young and discovered youthful enthusiasm was no match for thier toughness.

Steve.

 

[fasteddy]

Harry,
Looks great. Like the way the mounts sit against the frame.
Does the small sprocket come off the crank easily? Just thinking about what it will do to your leg if it catches your pant leg.

Is the cut in the tire where the piece of wood went in?

Are you are going to need wider a crank for the pedals or is it the camera angle?
Now I can't wait to get ahold of mine.

Steve.

 

[harry76]

Thanks for the comments guys. Im happy with the mounts. But i think i payed too much attention on having the engine straight when tacking it, because it isnt quite level, the back is slightly lower then the front. Not much though.

Because the carb will be in the way of the belt i need to either to make a 45degree inlet manifold, or make my hand clutch pull towards me and have the idler wheel pushing downwards on the belt and position it just below the carb.

And Steve taking that sprocket off is my next job. Hopefully not too hard. When i do remove it i can use the cover off the other engine (That cover wasnt shown in pics with that engine) which is a smooth one with a little bump where my sprocket now is.

And yes, thats where the splinter went in. A shame really because now i have an extra tyre and you but them in pairs. Maybe if i got another pair its an excuse for a sidecar project.....

And when im on nightshift in week or so time ill take my bike in and get the fitter to heatup my cranks and try bending them out. They look like they need to go out an inch or two. I can now also work out my sheave bracket sizes.

Ive been thinking maybe i should have went with a centrifugal clutch just so it was easy to ride. But now the pulley is fairly close to where i want the rear sheave i may as well continue as planned i guess