Thats Dax F80 Premium Engine Kit - Is it worth it?
- Thread starter SoapFlakes
- Start date
Don't get too uptight about the false cc claims. Major scooter and motorcycle manufacturers also up the cc claims.
Still a sleazy thing to do, though.
Still a sleazy thing to do, though.
So, in conclusion to this thread, the answer to the thread starter would be "we have no clue about the performance of a dax motor, but we can yip yap all day about varying prices and inconsistent displacement claims."
good to know
helpful....? eh
good to know
helpful....? eh
I bought my dax f 80 for around 200 $ and its a mutch better quality tha the grubee gt5 I had before it has more power and runs a lot smoother and reves to higher rpms out the box.
The dax f80 is one of the best kits out there out the box and it is also a good starting point for a race build as it has a better moer balaned botto end. Also its 70cc 4.7cm x4cm bore and stroke vs other 66cc 4.7cm x 3.8cm bore and stroke, you could say its a .2mm stoker rod lol the longer rod adds 3cc.
The castings are noticably better than others and the socket head bolts in the case are nice to work with .
With nothing but a minor port and polish and a puch moped head you will have a great running motor .
The dax f80 is one of the best kits out there out the box and it is also a good starting point for a race build as it has a better moer balaned botto end. Also its 70cc 4.7cm x4cm bore and stroke vs other 66cc 4.7cm x 3.8cm bore and stroke, you could say its a .2mm stoker rod lol the longer rod adds 3cc.
The castings are noticably better than others and the socket head bolts in the case are nice to work with .
With nothing but a minor port and polish and a puch moped head you will have a great running motor .
I have no experience with the DAX,
But I have to agree that it is worth spending a little more and not getting a GT5.
I'm sold on the 40mm crank, I have 3 of them.
I'm in OZ so I'll be getting another Rock Solid Motor next, it's probably similar quality/price.
I have several Ebay motors, and they always need something done to them to get them to perform properly.
If you want to just bolt it up, and have a good reliable performer, it's probably worth the extra $50.
Not to mention the better fastners, and without knowing the kit, but I suspect some other better quality components.
But the 'guarantee' of a better balanced crank, why wouldn't you.
I don't know anything about DAX, But I get the feeling Roger' Know's what he's talking about.
But I have to agree that it is worth spending a little more and not getting a GT5.
I'm sold on the 40mm crank, I have 3 of them.
I'm in OZ so I'll be getting another Rock Solid Motor next, it's probably similar quality/price.
I have several Ebay motors, and they always need something done to them to get them to perform properly.
If you want to just bolt it up, and have a good reliable performer, it's probably worth the extra $50.
Not to mention the better fastners, and without knowing the kit, but I suspect some other better quality components.
But the 'guarantee' of a better balanced crank, why wouldn't you.
I don't know anything about DAX, But I get the feeling Roger' Know's what he's talking about.
I like bolth actually the gt5 and the dax...
Now the dax is,more reliable and a slightly larger and better preformer out the box than the grubee gt5, but with that said the gt5 66cc can be made,into,a great racer with a buch of work, take arrow for instance they havea lot of gt5 dedicated motors built for raceing and even fred crmachine man says with,his top end power kit the gt5will make more power with a cylinder deck than other motors with the same top end power pack... It has to do with the grubees differant port map and timeing but if your not planning on a well thought out and well built street racer than well I highly sugest a dax f80 after 5 dax builds I can say they are a lot better out the box
All I do to a dax f80 when I build for a customer is port and polish the jug, deck the head to go from 6:1 comp up to 10:1 comp, and trim the skirt of the piston and make some minor piston ramps , then I port match the intake and exhaust and cut the cat out of the exhaust, tune the carb and add a high flow filter from a brigs and straton. Then I take it out and ride it for around 20 miles or so and make shure its all tunned up and tight. My builds t&ke a ew days but you get more tnan a slaped on motor .. That extra work I do enshures you get a more powerfull higher reving street rat motor that you know is tunned and you wont have to play with to make it runn right. I always recomend they run 32_40:1 mix and sugjest they buy a 40 t rear and a new hub adapter, I tell them it will make the bike even faster lol but its more of a saftey issue than anything as I want them to have a securly mounted sprocket and to help them keep the reves down a little bit at a cruise speed.
Only 1 customer came back and its because he wanted a fancy high comp race head he bought online mounted and the jug decked for proper squish clearance. Since he bought the bike from me I did the work for free.
I buy the dax bottom end and top end and motor kit seperate this way I can work on the motor and build a modified stock street rod as they go together, the motor bike parts kit I like comes with the cns carb and I am well versed on tunning it .
I am dead sure that my stock modded dax builds could smoke any other out the box bike engine kit out there in a race even a stock dax, this is because of the preformace mods that I do as the motor goes together, just upping the comp from 6 to 10:1 helps a lot and adds more midrange torque the piston ramps and porting and skirt trim all help with quicker higher reves and bwter throttle responce and the gutted exhaust makes it breath so mutch better ... The dax bikes that leave my little basment shop all all real quick and fast reving bikes and the customer doesnt have to worry about tunning the carb I do that on a 20mile test ride. all 5 of the dax f80 builds I have done so far all hit 30 _ 35mph duing my tune and test ride !!!! I always recomend dax
Dax offers great customer service and the engines and kits he sells are as good as any and better tahn most in my opinion and experience, if you have the extra for his engines or kits they are a great value, if you must go the less expensive route rose326a has been said to have very good standard china girl kits and they're bargain priced for sure, I know this is an old thread but I figure why not keep it going for the noobs to help them be informed about a question of kit quality that seems to come up a lot.
I will add that I do believe there are other good kits to be had but I can only testify to hat I have used and read many other positive claims about.
P ace and happy safe riding.......
Shan
I will add that I do believe there are other good kits to be had but I can only testify to hat I have used and read many other positive claims about.
P ace and happy safe riding.......
Shan
I have not yet got my build together, see my build thread. But I did purchase the Dax F80 as well. I put a lot of value in that he's already taken care of stuff I would rather not do, as this is my first build since 2005. I am still upgrading some of the parts. Not because they were bad, but because I desired an even higher quality than was supplied with the kit. Additionally Duane is available to answer your questions. If you don't get him on the phone, leave a message... and he will call you back! In this era, Service is King!
Best wishes on the build and yes you're correct about getting service this day and time, hard to find people with good people skills who are reliable, curtious and act like they appreciate their customers.
Map
Hey guys, i've called Dax today asking about the mix ratio on a Gen IV motor that had been marked mix 20:1 ?Best wishes on the build and yes you're correct about getting service this day and time, hard to find people with good people skills who are reliable, curtious and act like they appreciate their customers.
Map
Duane said yes, please be sure for the break in-period.
I wonder why the mix would need to be so high?
I plan to use Lucas semi synthetic Low smoke 2 stroke oil, any thoughts & suggestions on the 20:1 mix for new break-in ?
thanks,Dirty
Attachments
Covering his ****?
If you use really crap oil, 20:1.
Better oil, 33:1.
Synthetic 40:1.
Some people use less oil, but here are my recommendations.
If you use really crap oil, 20:1.
Better oil, 33:1.
Synthetic 40:1.
Some people use less oil, but here are my recommendations.
I break mine in on the mix I plan to run which in my case is 100:1 Opti2, never a single problem and all my engine run great and are very reliable, now all this said since you're running the oil you are I would say start out with either 25:1 or 32:1 andthen after about two tanks of fuel I'd switch to what I plan to run and tune the carb for that ratio and be sure you dont run it to lean.
Iknow you will likely get several opinions here to consider and that is fine, just make sure you aren't lean on fuel no matter what mix you choose.
Map
Use what he told you until it's out of warranty in case it goes boom.
Then use 40:1 or 32:1 and a good brand of oil.
Then use 40:1 or 32:1 and a good brand of oil.
Thats a good idea maniac, I hadn't considered the warranty issue, good advice.
Thanks for the correction here, that gave me a duh...... moment...LOL!
Map
The seller is not lying about the displacement, the methods are just different. The chinese measure total capacity of the cylinder with no piston seated within. In america and most other places, we measure total capacity with the piston in Lower Dead-center. The only reason I know this is because I was fed up with the difference and looked it up myself!