Sidecars?

GoldenMotor.com

fasteddy

Well-Known Member
Feb 13, 2009
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racie35,
My book mark page is so long that Microsoft has asked me to stop. :) I keep everything that might some day be of use. Now I have to learn how to put it into folders.

Chainmaker,
Hope you don't mind my "If I were doing it". If you have a Windsor Plywood Outlet or some other really good plywood seller I would get Crezon Board which is a paper covered plywood sign board. This is made to be painted and will give you a very nice finish. Not inexpensive but quicker in the long run.

My second choice would be any plywood that has a perfectly smooth knot free finish. You may be able to find a plywood made from Baltic Birch which is very smooth or Chilean Pine which is also a smooth, knot free finish.
Lowe's or Home Depot should have them. To get a really smooth paint finish I would give them a 220 and then a 320 grit finish sanding then a coat of primer that is compatible with the paint you using. Then just sand the primer and paint like you would a car finish. Automotive primer and paint will work well on wood.

For the curved parts on the front I would use sheet metal. Bends easily and of course takes paint very well. You can find bendable plywood at any good plywood supplier. It's often called wiggle wood and you can get it so the grain runs vertically or horizontally.
The only draw back to using wiggle wood is that it is rotary cut from the log on huge lathes and the grain is ruptured so it needs a lot of sanding to get it smooth or it needs to be filled with a filler and then sanded. You can use it to back the metal on the side car it you use a very thin metal so it acts like a veneer. To attach the metal to the wood Windsor Ply wood and many on line stores sell a glue that comes in sheets. You set a clothes iron, not your wife's, that you bought from a thrift store, on the recommended heat and place some brown paper or an old T shirt under the iron and literally iron the sheet metal or veneer on the wood. You just have to move slowly and after you have done an area use a roller to make sure that you have driven out any air bubbles and made sure the bond is tight while the glue is still hot.
It's just an option but makes the job better.

Hope this isn't overly confusing to you or anyone else reading it. I tend to forget that though I've done this work for over half a century, other people haven't and I tend to make it sound like it's no big deal but for the person doing this for the first time it seems pretty interesting.

Steve.
 

fasteddy

Well-Known Member
Feb 13, 2009
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Hi Chainmaker,

His instructions are a little cryptic to say the least. I read them a half dozen times and what I got out of it was that he used 3/4" plywood for the sides and floor. To hold the sides apart and give the front material some thing to rest on he used 3/4"x1" strips. Using something this narrow saves you the problem of having to shape the supports to match the curve of the sides so the top material will lay flat and not have bumps every time it meets the supports.

He made a pattern out of hard board/Masonite first and then used that to mark out the sides. I usually stack one on top of the other and clamp or drive some screws through the parts that will be cut off to hold them together as you are cutting out the sides. Make sure that both the outsides are facing out. Saves you doing the happy dance and then going to get more wood. :)
The nice part of the pattern is that you make any mistakes there and not on the finished product. One of my personal hard learned lessons.

I mentioned every thing else in my last post so I'll spare everyone a repeat. I would make sure that you set the floor up inside the body of the sidecar so when you bring the front material down to meet it there isn't a hump that you have to go over. It will be flush fitting with the sides.

If there are any questions about what I mean please ask.

It will be a fun build and a great ride.

Steve.
 

chainmaker

Well-Known Member
Jan 19, 2010
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Thanks Eddy...exactly what I was looking for. I saw this pic and it reminded me of when I went to the Phillippines and it wasn't uncommon to ride 4 or 5 up, but a bucket sidecar, how strong is the handle????

 

fasteddy

Well-Known Member
Feb 13, 2009
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Perfect sidecar build. Looking forward to seeing it when it's completed. If you have any questions about how I did something please ask.

This is going to be an exciting build.

Steve.
 

nosferatu

New Member
Aug 9, 2013
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Dallas, Texas

I hate to post an "I am going to do" type picture, but I will journal the process. I noticed several people were curious about sidecars and this is a brilliant and elegant design for one that should not require the forward stabilizing post and allows the rider to lean into a turn without lifting his passenger.

It is easy to remove as well and can be ported to your other projects.
There is not a lot on the subject of sidecars so here is a Watsonian superlight. With a nice schematic type drawing from the patent office. I will post a pic and let you know how I like it when it is finished and on my bike. That is flat iron with very few welds. It was made for the gentleman cyclist who just happened to have a child accompany him on family outings.*grins*
 

nosferatu

New Member
Aug 9, 2013
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Dallas, Texas
The mounting bracket was adjustable so it could fit on "any bike frame" just build a lightweight skeleton and skin it like an old airplane. Then mount it on those springs.
 
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fasteddy

Well-Known Member
Feb 13, 2009
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I'll be interested to see how this comes out. I have frames for the same sidecar that I cut out about 3 years ago but that is as far as it went. I started the tri car instead.

What kind of material are you going to skin the body with? Looking forward to seeing your build come together.

Steve.
 

silverbear

The Boy Who Never Grew Up
Jul 9, 2009
8,325
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northeastern Minnesota
Steve,
Very cool links... thanks! Love the Triumph with the Sachs engine, of course. What a good looking sidecar.

Chain,
I happened to be at the Harbor Freight in Duluth yesterday and was studying the hand trucks they has on sale. One was just like yours and there were two or three others which would also be suitable as sidecar frames. I like the Bike frame attachment setup you have posted as well. Simple and lends itself nicely to the hand truck design as if they were made for each other. A new hand truck was in the range of $35.00 to $40.00. Very reasonable I think and saves a lot of welding fabrication time and effort. I still have the other half of the donor Grumman canoe from the sidecar Steve and I made for my American Flyer which is of the rigid attachment type. I'm thinking I may use the remaining portion to make another canoe sidecar, but this time with a flex setup using the hand truck as the sidecar frame. The canoe body is relatively light and would attach to the hand truck frame easily. I might very well use this on the upcoming "kindalikeawhizzer" build. I can see it all in my mind's eye and like what I see. Woohoo!
SB
 

racie35

Active Member
Nov 17, 2012
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Does the sidecar wheel need to be in line with the rear wheel or staggered ahead? I've seen it both ways so I wonder