Schwinn Panther build

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chainmaker

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Jan 19, 2010
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Little update, been busy with other stuff lately. My new seat came it's the one on the right. Block work being done pockets for oversized springs and 5 hp lifters, valve grind and head cut.




 

chainmaker

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Jan 19, 2010
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Hot cam has such a high lift that a bit of the counter balance on crank will have to be ground. Re -doing jackshaft mount and using a pair of flange mount bearing blocks mounted to a plate welded at 90 degrees from post tube.
 

chainmaker

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Jan 19, 2010
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And here is the jackshaft mount which will be welded to seat post tube. Still need to shape the plate.



 

MotorizedEtc.

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Jul 10, 2010
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Wow Awesome work Chain!

What do you think about using those bar mounts to make an engine mount out of? I was thinking about doing that to mine since I can no longer use the stock mount and plate. Either that or I have to get someone to weld it up and make a new plate.
 

chainmaker

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Jan 19, 2010
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Not sure how they would work in the position needed they would be angled up. This is the method that worked for my first panther, simple piece of angle iron ($8.00) cut and welded on.
 

MotorizedEtc.

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Jul 10, 2010
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Hmm I might have to do that, did you put a plate on top of the angle iron or was it wide enough to mount the engine on by itself? Can you PM me the pic I dont want to derail your thread lol.

Edit you nija'd that pic in as I was typing lol
 

axelkloehn

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Sep 22, 2011
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Hi, it's me, Axel from germany

looks like you've got an original Mesinger seat at home, could you give me some numbers i.e. length and width? I am planning to build a set of Mesinger clones for my bikes.

Thanks
 

MEASURE TWICE

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Jul 13, 2010
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Those brackets for the jackshaft and the quality type bearings look great! The engine nicely degreased and on a perfectly clean baking tray wow too.

Yep, the angle bracket way is good and I added a few more attachment points as I intent hard use.

The angle brackets for a engine platform I did as an earlier build I did where my dad helped and braised the platform to the tubes. There was a slot for the bolts not holes. That allowed moving engine forward and aft to adjust tension on a belt drive without any clutch.

The picture shown attached, yet at night and not too clear is the current one welded that I did. I added more to the bottom of the platform to add strength. The parts attached to the top and lower bars was to help avoid all the stress cracking the bottom tube by spreading out the weight.

I do the no pedal dirt bike riding and it is hard on the frame. Gotta be over 40 years ago had the frame crack right there. Numb skull as a teenager, I continued to ride it with about and inch gap in the tubing till my dad had time to get it to the shop. Now I have my own MIG so no more of that.

MT
 

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chainmaker

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Jan 19, 2010
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Project update, managed to mount one tire by hand...popped the inner tube on the front while trying so I need to get a set of tire spoons and a new tube. I was able to grind the front counterbalance for the cam lobe to clear and now I am running into a similar situation with the rear lobe hitting the rod where it widens at the bottom. The motor is definitely not engineered for such a high lift cam. I'm going to grind a bit off the width of the rear lobe for clearance. Have quite a bit to fit and do this week, the bike goes off to the welders next week. Sorry no pics will post some later.