here here ,great bike you got there harold , looks fantastic and very clean and shiny
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Reworking the lights, rewiring, top tube tank, etc
- Thread starter Harold_B
- Start date
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Thanks oldpot. I'm doing what I can to take some of that clean and shiny off and rubbing some patina and character on!
Harold you were asking about making more power. remember this a engine is nothing but a air compressor the better you make it breath the more power you can and will make also the smother air flows from the intake to the end of the exhaust the better you are.
Thanks Scott. The adaptor plates that I made for both the exhaust and the intake were simple plates with holes drilled and then enlarged to match the port profile. The gaskets were cut to match the port as close as possible. I've tried to smooth them out as much as possible. The questionable choices would be the exhaust and the fairly sharp bend into the pipe, and the plenum intake I am using with the two stroker carb. The engine is running really rich right now and makes a lot of smoke as I let off the throttle and roll to a stop. I also put a little slack in the rear chain and that seemed to help a little. It pulls pretty nice up a modest hill (good thing, still no pedals) after today's tweaks.
Alternator doesn't seem to be charging the battery correctly so I need to sort that out. If its the schematic then I'll be sure to post a correction.
Alternator doesn't seem to be charging the battery correctly so I need to sort that out. If its the schematic then I'll be sure to post a correction.
Current sprocket setup is (10/30)x(10/44)=1/13.2 and seems to pull nice. I'll still need to swap out the jet in the carb and I have a half link on order to get the chain slack taken up.
Found at least one issue with my wiring. I had the tail lights on the wrong side of the power switch so they were always on and draining the battery. I've put the rear running lights on and plan to have the tail light and running lights run through a current regulator. The brake light will bypass the regulator so that when it comes on it's nice and bright.
Found at least one issue with my wiring. I had the tail lights on the wrong side of the power switch so they were always on and draining the battery. I've put the rear running lights on and plan to have the tail light and running lights run through a current regulator. The brake light will bypass the regulator so that when it comes on it's nice and bright.
Wound up making an idler out of a couple 3/4" bushings and a 13t sprocket that was leftover from the jack shaft. It seems to be taking up the slack just fine. Also wired in the current regulator but only to the rear bullet lights. They are still pretty bright but I'm OK with that. The battery seems to charge just fine as long as I'm riding around 20mph+. If I have problems maintaining a charge I might need to get a larger drive pulley. I have also gotten a bit impatient with a solution for the cranks for my Dana and with the weather getting colder I want to ride! Temporary solution is BMX pegs as footpegs. Maybe I'll actually get to ride to work next week. So far it's just been longer and longer rides around home.
The bike accelerates really nice but stutters a little when cruising. I'll need to look at the magnetto and the spark plug wire and I still need to change out the carb jet.
The bike accelerates really nice but stutters a little when cruising. I'll need to look at the magnetto and the spark plug wire and I still need to change out the carb jet.
I have cranks on the Dana. SRAM or Campy or whoever won't need to fret about me quite yet but they work as far as the coaster brake goes. They would likely get me to a gas station if I run it out of fuel but it would be mighty ugly. This thing is a tank! I'm thinking about just getting a one piece 3" low rider crank and stashing the Dana for another day. Also had to take the rear drop stand off. The pivots gave out. Like I said, it's a tank. I'll fix that soon.
The first thing I need to deal with is it doesn't cruise quite right. The acceleration is pretty good now that I switched back to a larger jet but it tends to stutter if it's not under a heavy load. I also re-adjusted the magnetto gap and checked the spark plug wire. One thing that seems wrong is that the clutch makes a pinging/ringing noise especially when cruising. I can't say the engine is sputtering like it is flooding or running out of gas but I can feel a stutter in the way the bike rolls. Any suggestions?
The first thing I need to deal with is it doesn't cruise quite right. The acceleration is pretty good now that I switched back to a larger jet but it tends to stutter if it's not under a heavy load. I also re-adjusted the magnetto gap and checked the spark plug wire. One thing that seems wrong is that the clutch makes a pinging/ringing noise especially when cruising. I can't say the engine is sputtering like it is flooding or running out of gas but I can feel a stutter in the way the bike rolls. Any suggestions?
If that Doodlebug engine is a 4 stroke and it has considerable hours on it you most likely will need to lap or regrind the valves and valve seats. This also requires adjusting the valve lash which requires patience and a bench grinder, not hard to do.
Thanks GearNut. The engine supposedly has low hours but it's an eBay purchase so I can't be certain. It looks pretty good though it wouldn't hurt to take a look at the valves. It seems like there are a lot of upgrade parts available for the Preddy engines but not so much for the DB. I am wondering if it would help to put stiffer springs on the valves while I'm in there and if so, where to look for them online.
Stiffer springs will allow you to run higher RPM's but only if the connecting rod can handle them. You don't want to spin it up so fast as to blow up the engine. Stiffer springs will also accelerate wear on the valve train.
Before tearing into the valves, have a leak down test done to the engine. It's easy and only takes a few minutes and can prevent tearing into the valves for no reason.
Before tearing into the valves, have a leak down test done to the engine. It's easy and only takes a few minutes and can prevent tearing into the valves for no reason.
I see. Well I don't need higher revs and certainly don't want wear prematurely. I've asked a friend to barrow his compression checkerso I can test the condition of the valves/rings. I'm also going to take another look at the clutch to see where the pinging is coming from. I can understand the noise at idle but not under power. Perhaps as the weather turns cold I can take the time to make a CobraFreak clutch bearing upgrade even though I'm not using the 4g.
A compression test will certainly show how well the internals are sealing.
If the compression is low, a leak down test will show where the leakage is occurring.
I suspect that the intake valve may be leaking.
If the compression is low, a leak down test will show where the leakage is occurring.
I suspect that the intake valve may be leaking.
Thanks again GearNut. My friend just moved and his garage is not as organized as he'd like so compression tester is going to take a few days to locate.
I have significantly reduced the pinging from the clutch though. I dis-assembled it and "faced" the bushing where it rubs on the washer against the clutch using the angle grinder bit on my Dremmel tool. Then peened the clutch bell so that the sprocket teeth were tight using a prick punch. Also removed a little steel from around the outside of the bushing so that the C-clip would seat properly and clear the bell flange.
Until I have my hands on the compression tester I am going to see if there are any air/vacuum leaks around my carb. I read someplace that a good test is to spray WD-40 at the carb inlet and listen for the engine to slow or pick up rpm's. If it slows then it's OK, if it speeds up there's a leak. If there's a leak then I'm supposed to spray around the interfaces listening for the rev's to pick up again to locate the leak. Anyone tried this? I've heard of this with ether but not WD-40.
Finally, a picture in the office parking lot instead of my garage. Totally enjoyed my ride in today!
I have significantly reduced the pinging from the clutch though. I dis-assembled it and "faced" the bushing where it rubs on the washer against the clutch using the angle grinder bit on my Dremmel tool. Then peened the clutch bell so that the sprocket teeth were tight using a prick punch. Also removed a little steel from around the outside of the bushing so that the C-clip would seat properly and clear the bell flange.
Until I have my hands on the compression tester I am going to see if there are any air/vacuum leaks around my carb. I read someplace that a good test is to spray WD-40 at the carb inlet and listen for the engine to slow or pick up rpm's. If it slows then it's OK, if it speeds up there's a leak. If there's a leak then I'm supposed to spray around the interfaces listening for the rev's to pick up again to locate the leak. Anyone tried this? I've heard of this with ether but not WD-40.
Finally, a picture in the office parking lot instead of my garage. Totally enjoyed my ride in today!
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You can use water in a spray bottle or a toy squirt gun, WD40, carb cleaner (both flammable, be careful), or an unlit propane or butane torch set to slowly let the gas out.
If the idle goes either up or down, you have a leak as the leak is allowing the test material to be drawn in.
I like to use one of those blue pencil type butane torches available at Harbor Freight (and even some 99 cent stores) when testing motorcycles for leaks. The nozzles are long and slender so one can get them into hard to reach areas.
If the idle goes either up or down, you have a leak as the leak is allowing the test material to be drawn in.
I like to use one of those blue pencil type butane torches available at Harbor Freight (and even some 99 cent stores) when testing motorcycles for leaks. The nozzles are long and slender so one can get them into hard to reach areas.
Thanks again GearNut. I tried using a propane torch and the idle didn't seem to change. I'm going to try it again as well as try the WD-40, I just ran out of weekend.
On my ride home from work on Thursday I noticed the back fender had a loose bolt and nut on one of the support brackets. What had actually happened was the aluminum brace that I had made broke at the through hole. I spent most of my time today making new brackets and braces out of steel. I'm hoping that once I can call it done even if all of the painting and touch-up isn't, I can take a few pictures of specific things that I focused on that are kind of hot buttons on the forum like fenders or lights. Not that my take can be considered the solution but at least I can throw my logic out there for feedback.
It should be decent enough to ride a day or two to work again this week. On the one day that I've managed to ride it in I've received a few nods and down low waves from gray bearded Harley riders, a "that's sweet!" from some guy in a pickup, and a couple guys from the city stopped to chat and took some pictures. Best of all, as I pulled into the parking lot the door flew open to our office and my partners let out a cheer. Totally made my day.
On my ride home from work on Thursday I noticed the back fender had a loose bolt and nut on one of the support brackets. What had actually happened was the aluminum brace that I had made broke at the through hole. I spent most of my time today making new brackets and braces out of steel. I'm hoping that once I can call it done even if all of the painting and touch-up isn't, I can take a few pictures of specific things that I focused on that are kind of hot buttons on the forum like fenders or lights. Not that my take can be considered the solution but at least I can throw my logic out there for feedback.
It should be decent enough to ride a day or two to work again this week. On the one day that I've managed to ride it in I've received a few nods and down low waves from gray bearded Harley riders, a "that's sweet!" from some guy in a pickup, and a couple guys from the city stopped to chat and took some pictures. Best of all, as I pulled into the parking lot the door flew open to our office and my partners let out a cheer. Totally made my day.
"It should be decent enough to ride a day or two to work again this week. On the one day that I've managed to ride it in I've received a few nods and down low waves from gray bearded Harley riders, a "that's sweet!" from some guy in a pickup, and a couple guys from the city stopped to chat and took some pictures. Best of all, as I pulled into the parking lot the door flew open to our office and my partners let out a cheer. Totally made my day."
That's great, Harold!
SB
That's great, Harold!
SB
Thanks SB. Today's ride in to work was not so stellar. The cotter pin holding in the D-pin of the half link in my drive chain between the clutch and the 30t sprocket dropped out or sheared off. D-pin fell out and is gone too. Fortunately my associate drives a big pickup and we could just hoist it into the bed. At least I now have a nice picture of my bike along the road....
Congrats on your approving audience!
Ahhhh.... Working out the bugs. Little annoyances to expect along the ride.
Nice photo! You have wonderful roads to ride over there.
Perhaps have the D pin of the new 1/2 link tack welded in place?
Ahhhh.... Working out the bugs. Little annoyances to expect along the ride.
Nice photo! You have wonderful roads to ride over there.
Perhaps have the D pin of the new 1/2 link tack welded in place?
Thanks GearNut. The cheers from my friends at work really lifted my spirits. They have a good understanding of the work that's gone into this and what it means to me.
Yup, things are going to fall off, break, burn up, and just plain not work like I think they should. I'm good with that as long as I stay upright! I need to verify the old Stewart-Warner speedo on the bike but it was bouncing between 35 and 40 mph when the chain let go. Also need to cover up the bend on the exhaust pipe. Crossed my left leg over my right while sitting at my desk and noticed a couple nice burns on my jeans. That could have been ugly. I'm going to try to reposition my idler so that I don't need the half link. That's the second one that has fallen apart on me.
Yup, things are going to fall off, break, burn up, and just plain not work like I think they should. I'm good with that as long as I stay upright! I need to verify the old Stewart-Warner speedo on the bike but it was bouncing between 35 and 40 mph when the chain let go. Also need to cover up the bend on the exhaust pipe. Crossed my left leg over my right while sitting at my desk and noticed a couple nice burns on my jeans. That could have been ugly. I'm going to try to reposition my idler so that I don't need the half link. That's the second one that has fallen apart on me.
