Reworking the lights, rewiring, top tube tank, etc

[Harold_B]

Some progress over the weekend but at this point it's difficult to see the differences. None the less, made a small guard for the clutch side chain that will hopefully suffice to keep my pants out of the sprocket.


Wrapping up a lot of loose ends as well. The speedo cable was the type that was held in place against a gear on the front hub with brackets and nuts and so it didn't interface with the sidewall drive I have mounted on the back wheel. I cut off and drilled out a cable ferrel then glued it to the cable housing with JB Weld. Before applying the glue I slid a retaining nut from a shut off valve onto the cable. Same threads as the Stewart Warner speedo drive.

Cut off the drive shaft (with a hacksaw, my arm aches just a little), rewired the horn button and brake lever, wired in the alternator, ammeter, and regulator. Cut, torched, and bent and then ultimately broke the other crank so now there's one more thing to figure out.

 

[Harold_B]

Made a mount for the horn that also serves double duty as a rear fender mount. With all of the issues I've read about on the forum with regard to fenders both front and rear I am taking my best shot at making them robust.

 

[Harold_B]

Pretty happy at this point with how solid the front fender feels. I had taken a torch to a 1" x 1/8" piece of steel and bent it to conform to the shape of the fender and secured it using three screws and acorn nuts with lock washers and jam nuts. I'll probably swap out the screws for shorter ones and put regular nuts on the inside of the fender. I'd rather have a small nut drop onto the tire than a screw. I also beefed up the braces by using motorcycle bar clamps on the fork and then mounting a 1" x 1/8" aluminum bar between the brackets on the fender and the clamp. A steel strap is added across the aluminum brace over the fork to make the skirt end of the fender a bit more stiff. Weather permitting I should paint the braces/brackets this weekend.

 

[Harold_B]

No paint on the brackets but did manage to get a belt for the alternator. Had to make a few adjustments for the tension to be right after I took a pic.


Plumbed in a glass gas filter and an extra shut-off. Also connected the vent that is stuck into the air filter on the motor when stock to an inline glass and metal gas filter and then to the exhaust. The filter should catch any solids and fumes should vent out the exhaust.

 

[Harold_B]

Have the shifter working now. Got rid of the cables and the 333 shifter, and the dual cable throttle version. Replaced them with a simple linkage. The only challenge was making the actuator arm that goes onto the Dana. My machine shop is a band saw, a drill press, a Dremel tool, and a couple of hand files but it works. The spring that is on there is too short so I'm using a strap as an anchor until I get a proper length spring.


I'm down to a few things to do. Paint on the brackets on the front fender, LEDs in the tail light, finish the exhaust adaptor plate, intake and exhaust gaskets, cranks, and then loctite on everything. The cranks will be the time killer.

 

[Harold_B]

Fender hardware is swapped out but it was too cold to paint. Too cold to paint! It's supposed to warm back up as the week goes on so maybe I can paint on Friday or Saturday. Anyway, this is the wiring diagram for what I'm doing if anyone is curious.

 

[Scott.D.Lang]

Personalty I love the build and all you have put into it. It shows just how much can be done with a bicycle and motor. Looks wise though I loved the 2 stroke there is just something about the look of a lawn mower engine that will never look right but still one of the best builds Ive ever seen if not the best because of all the attention to detail that I think most people miss Myself included.

 

[Harold_B]

Wow, Thanks Scott. High praise indeed. I feel I have a long way to go to be able to craft what's in my head with my hands. I can design it but I can't machine it or weld it so whatever I can make with cut and bent parts will have to do.

I know what you're saying about the lawn mower engine. I looked for a Sacks or a Harley or an Indian around or under 100cc and bid on a few on eBay but I'm not willing to pay the going rate. The doodlebug was $35. The reasons I went to a four stroke were mostly price, availability and the smell of two cycle fuel/exhaust. I'd get to work smelling like I had run the weed whacker before leaving home. Likely because I don't have a clue how to tune a two cycle. Anyway, the starter cup may be a short term thing. I'd like to have an electric start. I'll have to see what the winter brings.

I did get it started today. Still no pedals so it stayed on the stand. Sounds nice for 2 1/2 hp. No Preddy but still alright. Thanks again for the compliments and for the feedback Scott. Very much appreciated.

 

[Harold_B]

Hope this works. Video of the bike running. The unbridled power of the Doodlebug....

OK, maybe either "unbridled" or "power" or both is over stating the facts.

 

[GearNut]

It looks awesome! It sounds like a Harley running on one cylinder.
Your attention to detail and design skills really make this bike one of the best scratch fabricated ones here.

 

[Harold_B]

Thanks GearNut. Leaving the muffler off did give it a chugging or chuffing sound sort of like the truly vintage bikes. My guess is the lack of any real power!

One thing is for sure, I am still learning. The bike started on the first pull which surprised me (a lot) and so I took it off the stand and went for a short spin. One bolt and two nuts fell off, the exhaust came loose, and I had a gas leak at the shut off at the back of the tank. I loved every second and don't care about what didn't work right. That's the purpose of a shake down I say. Another week, maybe two and I can ride to work. Just in time to freeze my rear off....

 

[GearNut]

Perhaps this could help you out?
http://www.toast-clothes.com/

 

[Harold_B]

Much appreciated but most likely I will sit with some of this and conceptualize improvements to be made over the winter!
http://www.ratebeer.com/beer/left-hand-milk-stout/12028/

 

[Harold_B]

As I add Loctite to bolts and make adjustments to stuff I can't help but take it for short rides despite the lack of pedals and cranks. When I had calculated my sprocket sizes I was planning on running the drive train through the Dana. Once I ditched that idea I should have ponied up for new sprockets then but I thought I'd give the best combination on hand a try first. My current set up is (10t clutch / 21t jack shaft input) x (10t jack shaft output / 44t wheel sprocket) = 1/9.24. On my ride tonight I went up a slight incline and was passed by a jogger. Not actually a jogger, just a really tall guy walking fast. A 28t sprocket is on order!

 

[Harold_B]

28t sprocket installed. Much better on the little hills in my neighborhood although the little doodlebug is still pretty much under powered. It's really no wonder these engines are readily available on eBay at a good price fairly new. I'm aware of people removing the governor but not much else for getting a little extra something out of these. Any links to build threads where successful mods were made would be appreciated.
New sprocket, etc...

 

[silverbear]

What a good looking ride!
SB

 

[Harold_B]

Thanks SB! It's so close to road-worthy I can hardly stand it. I made a hit list of things to take care of before I call it done. No sense in rushing now.

 

[glennbo]

heres what ratio i run on my 79 preddy 11-26-8-48 governor gone and a pz 19 carby tops out at 40mph on a flat better exhaust and carb helped the 79cc it takes off with minamal vibes with a max torque...clutch stays nice and cool to touch which is real good it engages shortly after idle. maybe like 1800 rpm i know your running a doodle bug 99cc but the same mods should work 4 you.. when i run with that gear ratio and governor gone the engine really winds out and the pz19 carby quenches the thirsty little monster well...hope this helps

glennbo

 

[Harold_B]

Thanks glennbo. If I assume you are running 26x2.125" tires like I am then the difference will be in the gear ratios. Your 11-26-8-48 comes out around 1/14.1 or so and my current ratio 10-28-10-44 comes out around 1/12somethingish. If I were to swap out the 28t for a 32t it would be 1/14.1 or I could swap the 44t for a 52t and get 1/14.5. I wouldn't think it would matter which sprocket I switched as long as the end ratio was close or did I not think that through? I am looking more for power to haul me and the bike up a decent hill over any top speed concerns. 30 mph is good.

Another quick question: how much play should there be in the short chain (clutch to 28t)? I had a lot of slop in there with the 21t and left basically no slop this time assuming it will loosen up over time. Giving it some thought I'm probably putting some drag on the clutch that will slow things down.

 

[Harold_B]

There's these build threads that I keep referring back to as well:
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=42475
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=43336

I suspect I'm in the ballpark but just need to tweak a few things like chain slop and the carb jet.