baja I would not waste any money changing that gasket, it will not make a difference. As far as the motor goes I have ran a stock motor with 18lb springs at one of the races and people thought it was built. Get it going and worry about the modifications later. Trust me it will be a hand full with what you got.
My first race bike build 212cc predator!
- Thread starter bajaracer1
- Start date
Hmmm I was thinking about machining my piston to clear the head with a very thin gasket. I have a 99 so do you think it will be worthwhile? I can have it done for free. Baja, take off your gasket and see if the piston will clear the head. Oh and stock is .04 or .06, look on agk. I want to get as thin as possible, so I will see if mcmaster Carr has copper sheet.
ok then, i'm just going to run my stock gasket and see how it feels. i just want to finish and ride it for now. then worry about performance.
young grease monkey. i would do all the bolt on stuff before i start permanently grinding down my head and piston, and getting into the more permanent modifications. unless your curiosity is killing you.
young grease monkey. i would do all the bolt on stuff before i start permanently grinding down my head and piston, and getting into the more permanent modifications. unless your curiosity is killing you.
anyway, update for today (so far):
i think i found the best way to mount the engine. do you guys think he angle is to extreme? will the engine be able to self lubricate itself in this position?
i could mount the engine in 2 different way's which is better??? i want to make sure the engine will stay lubricated.
i think i found the best way to mount the engine. do you guys think he angle is to extreme? will the engine be able to self lubricate itself in this position?
i could mount the engine in 2 different way's which is better??? i want to make sure the engine will stay lubricated.
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That looks good as far as mounting it, what does look bad is you cut up such a nice frame. To each his own... you have two people on this site that have made that motor fit into that frame with no modifications to the frame...Please look over their builds...it will truly help...
really??? i tried every way and couldn't find a way to make it fit without cutting the frame. i sat there for 10 minuets thinking to myself before i started cutting. who has done it? could you send me the link? i can't find it.
he can't be using the same dyno frame as me.
he can't be using the same dyno frame as me.
so i would just have to fill the oil level to the point where the plastic gear is partially submerged in oil correct?
Post #7 of this very thread.
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o, i didn't think i could mount the engine vertically because the oil would not flow correctly. i know it would fit that way, just thought that was not even an option. dam i feel sooooo stupid now.
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Mount the engine in which way it would be easiest to remove the valve cover if needed, just my opinion.
To give you more room to work with you may also want to remove the cranks and put those aside since you would need to put on wide cranks. Or you can bend those 1 piece cranks to make them wider.
To give you more room to work with you may also want to remove the cranks and put those aside since you would need to put on wide cranks. Or you can bend those 1 piece cranks to make them wider.
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Hmmm... will you have access to the valve cover bolt? You can remove the cover with very little clearance as long as you can take off the bolt.
Just in case you want to check the valve lash every so often, or on a situation like mine to see what the heck happened to the pushrods, I bent a valve and pushrod because the valve lash was set incorrect.
In this case, that would be 4 bolts and you do need some clearance to get the cover off without fighting it
i'll probably just mount it like this bike. i'll be sure to make it so that the valve cover can come off easily.
maybe use a 24 inch rear because the cylinder should be tilted back for lubrication due to the angle of the oil scoop on the connecting rod. attach a clear hose to the oil drain to see the oil level in relation to the output shaft, and make sure it is at the same level when you fill it up in the mount position you want.
yeah i'm just going to fill it up until the cam gear and some of the connecting rod is submerged. i'll measure how much oil it took and that's how much i'll put every time.
I was wondering if you ordered one of AGK's fancy billet flywheel? Definitely one upgrade that's a must on these engines.
Hmm maybe next summer I will cast flywheels for the 99 and 212, and have them machined and balanced. Agk's billet ones are nice but out of many people's price range and there are none for the 99. Need to make friends with a machinist.
The only way that valve cover is gonna be removed easily is with the engine removed from the frame........trust me.
The reason I ask is because I rather not experience this and hopefully you or anybody else wont either, quoted from agk website;
"ALUMINUM FLYWHEEL: Stock flywheels, especially on clone motors, can come apart at high RPM. When a flywheel lets go at high RPM, it's similar to a grenade going off. Needless to say this is a very dangerous situation which can be lethal. Install an aluminum flywheel to prevent this disaster from striking you. With the reduction in weight you will get increased horse power and a quicker revving motor. This is an expensive part, but it's good insurance. Cost: $125.00"
Scroll down to the middle of the page and you'll see his statement;
http://www.affordablegokarts.com/performance_basics.php