Multiple problems: Engine Mount, Throttle, and Muffler

Discussion in 'Motorized Bicycle Trouble Shooting' started by Aleebi, Mar 22, 2014.

  1. Aleebi

    Aleebi New Member

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    Hi, let me start by saying that I am not too savvy with mechanical parts. That said, I've tried my best to make my HT engine work but even so I really need your guy's help.

    Engine Mount
    Firstly, the engine has never fit onto my bike (front tube is WAY too fat). I removed the front mount screws (I don't remember why), and have used two steel ties to ensure the engine is secure. However, I do not feel save using this...anyone got any ideas on how I can mount my engine?


    Throttle Handlebar
    The throttle handlebar is not securely on the handlebar. I can easily pull it off. It twists with my wrist when I try to use it so that is very annoying. I've tried many things, but the original plastic mount (where you drill a hole into the handlebar itself) broke off. The anchor part has also broken off, preventing me from lowering the RPM. (You can see the botched fixed with tape)

    Muffler
    I over tightened the left bolt here, and the entire plastic section came out rendering the muffler useless. Even when it did work it got in the way of my pedals. I may get a heat gun to bend it, but any ideas on how to mount it? The gap is highlighted by the giant red box.

    Thank you for taking the time to help! It is greatly appreciated.
     
  2. Going2Hell

    Going2Hell Member

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    I can fix your throttle grip problem, and 1 out of 3 ain't that bad...

    I drilled a 1/8" hole through the clamp part of the throttle grip assembly. I used this Diameter:1/8"(3mm) Grip:1/2"(12mm) Steel Rivet I riveted here because there are no moving parts and it was the original location of the plastic POS pin that held it.

    As for the anchor point, I'd need to see beyond the tape to know.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    #2 Going2Hell, Mar 22, 2014
    Last edited: Mar 22, 2014
  3. bluegoatwoods

    bluegoatwoods Active Member

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    Oooh....I'm sorry to just come right out and say it. But this looks like a mess.

    But here's the good news; there's folks around here who can help.

    To start with, can you get us some better pics? In the second engine photo I swear it looks like you've got that engine mounted backwards. I don't quite believe it, but I just can't tell. (Though I will go back and have another look)

    I've got a fix for you for the throttle. It's easy and cheap. I won't describe it just now. There's other things to think about. But don't worry; that'll be fixed.

    I've got a fix for the exhaust. Maybe. I can help you get it mounted without pedal clearance issues. But I'm not too sure about something else. You mentioned that you broke a plastic part. But I can think of no plastic parts there. I couldn't tell anything from the photo. Still, the exhaust shouldn't be a huge problem.

    That engine mounting is your biggest problem right now. Don't try to ride that bike with it like it is. I don't suppose you can ride your bike right now. But don't try, anyway, with it mounted like that.

    There are mounts available for oversized tubes. You'll want to measure the width of that downtube. Then you can order the right mount for it from some of the vendors here.

    I was thinking of asking you to take more photos of that engine. But maybe it's not necessary. It just can't stay the way it is anyway. It must be re-mounted in a more secure way.

    You might find yourself tempted to use the 'drill-through' mount that likely came with your kit. Let me be the first to beg you; don't do it. It's a dangerous mount.
     
  4. Greg58

    Greg58 Well-Known Member

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    You need a large tube mount, you can buy or make one. Find a muffler clamp that is wide enough to go around the tube. Next you need a piece of flat stock metal to bolt flat across the front mount area. You'll have to drill the holes to match the engine and the clamp. This should solve the front mount, why did you remove the rear inner tube base? The base helps to align the engine.
     
  5. shenanigans

    shenanigans New Member

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    SICKBIKEPARTS.COM has a great motor mount, just measure your tube. Its got a space cut out between the bolt holes. And mounts with a strong Clamp.
     
  6. Greg58

    Greg58 Well-Known Member

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  7. 2door

    2door Moderator
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  8. Greg58

    Greg58 Well-Known Member

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  9. bluegoatwoods

    bluegoatwoods Active Member

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    Terrific! These guys have given a few links that'll help you get your engine mount troubles fixed.

    There's some very helpful people around here. They just might get you up and running in no time.

    After Sun-up I'll take a few photos of my bike. I'll show you my mounting method. It might be helpful.

    And I'll get some photos of a good way to fix a broken throttle.

    As far as your exhaust troubles go, I'm still not sure just what it was that you broke when you tightened your exhaust. I'm wondering if it wasn't the exhaust gasket. If so, that's easily replaced. When shopping for a motor mount, just go ahead and search that vendors site for a new exhaust gasket. Most of those guys carry them and they're inexpensive.

    For exhaust/pedal clearance I've found it useful to simply drill the mount holes on the exhaust flange a bit bigger. Be careful; there's not a lot of space to work with. But mount holes that are only slightly larger give you a lot of 'wiggle room' to mount that exhaust. You can just swivel it away from the pedal.
     
  10. massdrive

    massdrive New Member

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    I had the same situation with my GT2a frame. Engine mounting adaptors are good, but I had another idea. If you don't have machinist skills you will need someone who does or simply bite the bullet and go to a local machine shop. I put my entire engine in a power lock vise on a Bridgeport. I squared it up and gently plunged and walked in a 1.5" dia. end mill to fit the 1.5" front down tube on my bike. I did the same thing with the rear engine mount and opened it up to 1.25" to fit my rear down tube. I am an experienced machinist and this procedure only took me 30 minutes from start to finish x 2 engines. There is also the added benefit of having the ability to change the mounting angle of your engine in your frame.
    Here is a link to the thread. Scroll down to see pics of the mounts.
    http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=51140

    I used aluminum pipe for the mounting clamps. Standard 1.5" and 1.25" inside dia. with standard 2" and 1.63 outside dia. I faced them and parted them off at the appropriate width on a lathe and then sawed them in half on a band saw. I set each half moon up in the vise on the Bridgeport and dusted them flat with an end mill, and than drilled & counter bored the screw holes. Done... It took about an hour. This is a clean simple secure way of mounting your engine. Later I slotted the clamps to give them a more mechanical look.
     
  11. Aleebi

    Aleebi New Member

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    It is without a doubt a mess, which is why I'm inclined not to ride it until it's 100% safe.

    Here's a picture of the engine whole:
    I've fixed the throttle mounting problem myself. This is the anchor part that's broken off:
    This is the "plastic" (sorry, I meant metal) part that broke off from over tightening the muffler bolt. It's where the left screw is supposed to go. You can see the grooves!

    As mentioned earlier I removed my front engine studs (I don't remember why). I really like that SBP engine mount but I need to replace my studs first. What can I do?

    Thank you for all your help!
     
    #11 Aleebi, Mar 23, 2014
    Last edited: Mar 23, 2014
  12. Greg58

    Greg58 Well-Known Member

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    Sorry but it looks like the cylinder will have to be replaced, unless you know someone that can weld aluminum . But welding that would require removing the cylinder anyway so if it were mine I would replace it.
     
  13. Aleebi

    Aleebi New Member

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    Sorry, what cylinder?
     
  14. Greg58

    Greg58 Well-Known Member

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  15. CTripps

    CTripps Active Member

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    As Massdrive said, the mounts can be widened or opened up a little. I used a dremel to similar effect for the front mount on a recent build.

    [​IMG]

    (Caption from the pic: The down tube on the bike has a 1 3/8" diameter.
    The molded motor mount was 1 ΒΌ" in inside diameter.
    Using a file and the dremel, it wasn't hard to open up the cast mount by 1/16" each side. I removed and replaced the mounting studs after widening the mount, thinking that leaving them in would prevent me from doing damage to the stud holes.)
     

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