Years ago when I scored this dark Blue Clear Creek SCHWINN Made to represent as their 100th Anniversary bike in 1995 the guy had a more expensive Black larger clear Creek with stock front and rear racks well I was at a yard sale last month and I saw this beat up black monsterly large Clear Creek SCHWINN with only the front rack on it I inquired with the owner he said his kid bought it years ago off of the same guy I bought mine off of . well I snatched it up quick for $60 bucks I wish I took some before photos of it but I dove into fixing it so fast I didn't even think of it here are a few pics of them both together again after many years apart This baby is gonna make one fine motor bike and finally I have a bike that fits me If you could have seen her before I touched her up a bit it doesn't even look like the same bike rusted / broken cables, So I ripped into it w/ new bearings, cables , twist sifters , levers , etc etc . just stuff i had laying around didnt spend a dime extra over thew 60. Motor in the mail!.
Awesome score!Years ago when I scored this dark Blue Clear Creek SCHWINN Made to represent as their 100th Anniversary bike in 1995 the guy had a more expensive Black larger clear Creek with stock front and rear racks well I was at a yard sale last month and I saw this beat up black monsterly large Clear Creek SCHWINN with only the front rack on it I inquired with the owner he said his kid bought it years ago off of the same guy I bought mine off of . well I snatched it up quick for $60 bucks I wish I took some before photos of it but I dove into fixing it so fast I didn't even think of it here are a few pics of them both together again after many years apart This baby is gonna make one fine motor bike and finally I have a bike that fits me If you could have seen her before I touched her up a bit it doesn't even look like the same bike rusted / broken cables, So I ripped into it w/ new bearings, cables , twist sifters , levers , etc etc . just stuff i had laying around didnt spend a dime extra over thew 60. Motor in the mail!.
This is the 21" after I put the motor on her in the spring of 2012 after I totaled my much to short wheel base "Huffy" by hitting a patch of black ice the winter prior , and sliding into a dumpster full speed ahead cracking the frame on the huffy and moving a fully stuffed 2 yard dumpster back 2'feet from the impact. So I swapped all salvageable parts basicly just the handle bars onto this "SCHWINN Clear Creek" and got a much more dependable and a lot less wobbly M.B.
I suspect the frame of the Huffy was cracked prior to my dumpster diving debut
I suspect the frame of the Huffy was cracked prior to my dumpster diving debut
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Here's a tip if you ever needed a smaller more sturdy bracket for your idler tensioner bracket..had a left over 1 ½" u-bolt bracket...took itto the table grinder and ground off most of the sharp points so that the concave dip was about 1/8" deep...the brackets already sharp edges help stop the bracket from getting yanked into the wheel...
my motor ran fine and I noticed the intake valve was leaking. took it off and the gasket was fine so I just tightened the bolts and one of the heads broke off so I tightened it as much as possible. also today I had it sitting outside after work and it started raining while I was sleeping so the bike did get wet today. after I put it all back together I drained the carb hopped on and took off but the engine wouldn't run, it will start but it won't stay running pulling a load and it wont idle either. I kept tinkering and trying things loosened the idle screw and it ran well for a couple of minutes it did idle really high though. so I do not know if it wont run right because of the intake valve or the bike getting wet. it has been wet before but not ridden for a few days afterwards. and it ran fine earlier I rode it to and from work. any help would be appreciated.
Traw, seems to me like you should have posted in another one of the forum threads to get the help you need... Perhaps a moderator will help out here, when noticed...
I'm not sure how you determined your intake valve was leaking, but after reading your post, I suspect you may not have really meant 'valve' ???
..Maybe the intake manifold?
What kind of motorized bicycle do you have?
Would you please tell us a bit about your mechanical experience ?
Any chance you could take a picture of where you broke off the bolt head?
That kinda should be repaired !!! before you do anything else !!!
Good luck,
rc
I'm not sure how you determined your intake valve was leaking, but after reading your post, I suspect you may not have really meant 'valve' ???
..Maybe the intake manifold?
What kind of motorized bicycle do you have?
Would you please tell us a bit about your mechanical experience ?
Any chance you could take a picture of where you broke off the bolt head?
That kinda should be repaired !!! before you do anything else !!!
Good luck,
rc
RC yes I meant the intake manifold I'm pretty sure it was leaking causing my engine not to reach top speed so I took it off & checked the gasket I have already replaced the bolt I broke with another one of the same size. I haven't started the bike & do you know what forum I should post in? I'm new to the forum but I have decent mechanical skills
Probably not the rain that caused it to run bad, but an intake leak WILL cause a runaway/high idle & poor top end performance. This applies to 2 strokes & 4 strokes. Replace the stud/nut-bolt and maybe use a bit of RTV gasket sealer (not too much) to seal up the gasket, should get it to run decent.
Norm's Repair Center is a good place to post if you have questions regarding problems, he's quite knowledgeable and willing to share his wisdom for free.
Norm's Repair Center is a good place to post if you have questions regarding problems, he's quite knowledgeable and willing to share his wisdom for free.
Absolutely!
Lord Vader is the byest!
http://motorbicycling.com/forumdisplay.php?f=39
Folks here at MBforum are Not real stuffy or anything, we'd all like you to get the best exposure so you can get best results, quickly.
It would be to your benefit to describe in best possible detail which motor you are using!!! and which carb... all the information you can provide for our top notch guys to consider.
The manifold to cylinder gasket is generally marginal, and usually mis-aligned and should always be inspected on a new motor. I think a gasket sealer product should be applied to it and the port should be inspected for garbage left from the manufacturing process before re-assembly. (there is usually some sort of discrepancy)
The carb mounting to the intake spigot is usually where the problem lies.
...a couple different styles of O ring are used, and it is easy to get them installed poorly.
The carb Must be tight up against them!
I also advise some sort of goop on this connection.
Do Not overtighten the carb or it may break!
....intake manifold bolts are usually too close to the tube/runner tract, andsmall, or modified washers must be stackedon the stud so a nut can be put on them well.
Throw away any acorn nuts that come on your motor!
Yes, SuperDave is right... rain probably won't cause too much of a problem, even though it would not be advised.
And all this is IF you do have a chinagirl !!!
Best
rc
Lord Vader is the byest!
http://motorbicycling.com/forumdisplay.php?f=39
Folks here at MBforum are Not real stuffy or anything, we'd all like you to get the best exposure so you can get best results, quickly.
It would be to your benefit to describe in best possible detail which motor you are using!!! and which carb... all the information you can provide for our top notch guys to consider.
The manifold to cylinder gasket is generally marginal, and usually mis-aligned and should always be inspected on a new motor. I think a gasket sealer product should be applied to it and the port should be inspected for garbage left from the manufacturing process before re-assembly. (there is usually some sort of discrepancy)
The carb mounting to the intake spigot is usually where the problem lies.
...a couple different styles of O ring are used, and it is easy to get them installed poorly.
The carb Must be tight up against them!
I also advise some sort of goop on this connection.
Do Not overtighten the carb or it may break!
....intake manifold bolts are usually too close to the tube/runner tract, andsmall, or modified washers must be stackedon the stud so a nut can be put on them well.
Throw away any acorn nuts that come on your motor!
Yes, SuperDave is right... rain probably won't cause too much of a problem, even though it would not be advised.
And all this is IF you do have a chinagirl !!!
Best
rc
uhm k it is a Skyhawk 66cc but ill double check and it has the cns carb. i think it may be my spark plug so im going to get a new one and a new cap
The B6ES NGK is what many of us run by choice.
I would advise that plug unless you have a strong reason for running something else.
The sparkplug High tension cable is suspect, from the factory, yet my plug boot seems fine.
Biggest complaint with the ignition is generally the kill switch, itself.
It should be disconected until all other systems on the bike are functioning well.
EZ enough to kill a chinagirl, anyway...
The CNS carb is notable as the carburetor everyone loves to hate.
An NT carb is far simpler, and quite reliable, yet IMO there might just be a little bit more power from the CNS.
Both employ a clamp mounting method which must hold the carb up against a rubber seal that is critical to operation. The carb can slip, compromise the seal, and cause the motor to run lean, bringing most the symptoms you are presently noticing.
Pls keep in mind, the chinagirl is a cheap date!
Small, easy, and inexpensive to work on.
Really fun results!
rc
I would advise that plug unless you have a strong reason for running something else.
The sparkplug High tension cable is suspect, from the factory, yet my plug boot seems fine.
Biggest complaint with the ignition is generally the kill switch, itself.
It should be disconected until all other systems on the bike are functioning well.
EZ enough to kill a chinagirl, anyway...
The CNS carb is notable as the carburetor everyone loves to hate.
An NT carb is far simpler, and quite reliable, yet IMO there might just be a little bit more power from the CNS.
Both employ a clamp mounting method which must hold the carb up against a rubber seal that is critical to operation. The carb can slip, compromise the seal, and cause the motor to run lean, bringing most the symptoms you are presently noticing.
Pls keep in mind, the chinagirl is a cheap date!
Small, easy, and inexpensive to work on.
Really fun results!
rc
http://www.sparkplugs.com/Data/uploads/ngk plug chart.jpg
Depends whether one has the slant head or straight. I have both and the straight does not have the protruding plug It does have the B6HS. The slanting one has the BP6HS
Interesting, you suggest a longer reach........ Mine doesn't have the longer reach.
Depends whether one has the slant head or straight. I have both and the straight does not have the protruding plug It does have the B6HS. The slanting one has the BP6HS
Interesting, you suggest a longer reach........ Mine doesn't have the longer reach.
My apologies, Wally... If I wasn't vague enough... I meant to throw that name and heat spec out into the open as a good place to start looking when getting rid of that stock plug.
As always, with a two stroke, conditions, and riding style, experimentation will probably be beneficial.
rc
As always, with a two stroke, conditions, and riding style, experimentation will probably be beneficial.
rc
What I forgot to mention was that there might not be enough clearance with your plug, between plug and and piston.Got it started and running but it won't go past 15 mph and bogs down after running for a few minutes. I found a hole in the o ring where the carb connects to the intake manifold I guess I'll fix that and see what happens
Yes, Wally.. it is an error on my part.
I have not yet dealt with that circumstance.
Best that someone take their old plug down to the parts house and not get one that is noticeably longer !!!
Traw.... sounds like you are getting somewhere!
Pls explain for us what you mean by 'bog' when you get past 15mph.
it could be jetting, it could be a totally plugged exhaust pipe/muffler....
What does your plug look like after that bog run?
Are you running a fuel filter?
is your oil mix now at 30 or 40 to 1 ?
My 48 chinagirl runs flat out at 24 with my carcass aboard. I cruise at 17-19mph on main street.
With my Far lighter son aboard, it will bump up against 29mph, BTTW, flat out.
We need the plug info!
rc
I have not yet dealt with that circumstance.
Best that someone take their old plug down to the parts house and not get one that is noticeably longer !!!
Traw.... sounds like you are getting somewhere!
Pls explain for us what you mean by 'bog' when you get past 15mph.
it could be jetting, it could be a totally plugged exhaust pipe/muffler....
What does your plug look like after that bog run?
Are you running a fuel filter?
is your oil mix now at 30 or 40 to 1 ?
My 48 chinagirl runs flat out at 24 with my carcass aboard. I cruise at 17-19mph on main street.
With my Far lighter son aboard, it will bump up against 29mph, BTTW, flat out.
We need the plug info!
rc
Here's a tip.If you have a spare 15-pound motorcycle chain and lock, secure it @ your workplace's bike rack and leave it there. That way, you have excellent protection @ work, and ya don't have to lug it around. just keep a bike cable on your bike for minimum security, in case you need to stop for a second @ 7-11.
Hey, here's a tip I 'discovered' when trying to track down & fix an air leak; I wanted to replace my O-ring in the carb that fits between the carb & intake, but at the time, my wife had the car & I was stranded. So I took a 1/2" length of 5/8's inch diameter automotive heater hose, and used that in place of the plastic (grommet? spacer? whatever you call it) and made sure the leading edge was flat where it seats into the carb. It fits real snug and seemed to seal it up nicely. The carb is also tight on the manifold, even when the lock down screw is loose.