Motorized Bicycle Take a Tip...Leave a Tip

Actually - the brakes themselves are pretty good (unless it's a Huffy w/coaster lol), it's just their pads are junk. Replace the pads w/real ones from an actual bike shop for a whopping $10 or so and it's a completely different story.

I can do an endo with the touch of a finger and they've lasted over 2000 miles so far. My only complaint is when they're wet - they still work quite well, just not quite as good.
 
BarelyAWake said:
Actually - the brakes themselves are pretty good (unless it's a Huffy w/coaster lol), it's just their pads are junk. Replace the pads w/real ones from an actual bike shop for a whopping $10 or so and it's a completely different story.

I can do an endo with the touch of a finger and they've lasted over 2000 miles so far. My only complaint is when they're wet - they still work quite well, just not quite as good.
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I have to agree on the brakes...the pads do make the difference. Especially on the endo point!! So be careful when you first install them. They really grab!
 
I love coaster brakes... No idea why but I seem to feel safer with them as one set. The new build have those pull things on front and rear no coaster and they scare me to death lol
 
BarelyAWake said:
Actually - the brakes themselves are pretty good (unless it's a Huffy w/coaster lol), it's just their pads are junk. Replace the pads w/real ones from an actual bike shop for a whopping $10 or so and it's a completely different story.

I can do an endo with the touch of a finger and they've lasted over 2000 miles so far. My only complaint is when they're wet - they still work quite well, just not quite as good.
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Actually I've had good luck with cheapie pads. They are more than adequate if maintained proprerly. Once every few months I clean rims w/isopropyl and zip a piece of 150 sandpaper between the pads. Takes less than a minute per bike.

I don't like coasters or disc as much as cheapie Target/Walmart brakes. Not just for price but they are just easier to install and work on. Parts (cables, pads, etc.) cheap and easy to find too.

IMO it's possible for brakes to be TOO good. If I can just get that rear to skid a bit I'm happy. I don't like OTBs.
 
Well, the pads that came on my walmart bike wore down to nothing in less than 300 miles, the ones they sell at walyworld are usually 'Bell' - which are a definite improvement... but still didn't fill me with endearment. The 'Aztecs' I got from the bike shop while defo not the best money can buy are still freakin' awesome, I've got well over 2000 miles of outright abuse on 'em and they're still goin' strong!

The maintenance you described is good advice no matter the pad tho - good call ;)
 
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Mac said:
OK, OK... I posted to an old thread, didn't realize, stick a spoke in my eye! HOWEVER, it was still good info. I'm reading many of the messages for education. I can still claim "Hey I'm New"
Bare with me

Mac
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No need to appologise we ain't like the other site just check how many threads and repeated same points are made from using or not using tensioners LOL
 
hi again sorry didnt realize what i said the pads on my brand new $45 bmx mike wore down in 15 mins no joke so i put some super brake pads on it and guess what happened? it actualy bent the bi of steel u put the pads on so i bent it back with a piece of wood then the next hill it ben the bolt that goes from the brakes into the frame i mean wtf i pulled apart my goped breaks and and and it works
 
take a tip...leave a tip

Before you cut the brake or clutch cable thats too long, insert a piece of small diameter shrink wrap onto the cable,heat to shrink, then cut you're cable,this will give a clean cut cable, with no frayed wires sticking out to snag on any or everything that comes close to it...Looks good also...Pete
 
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Evan said:
I have to agree on the brakes...the pads do make the difference. Especially on the endo point!! So be careful when you first install them. They really grab!
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make sure you install the correct brake pads according to your rim, there is a diff. in pads, alum. rims and steel rims and it DOES make a diff.
 
I work in the printing industry (newspapers etc.) and am using old 'blankets' as cushions everywhere something bolts to the frame. They seem to really cut down on vibrations. They are basically rubber sheets backed with canvas so they are quite durable. You could probably go to the local print shop (minuteman etc.) and ask if they have any used "blankets" I have pretty much an endless supply so if anyone has trouble finding them I would be willing to send them out if you pay the postage. I can't imagine an 8.5 x 11 sheet would cost more than a buck or 2 to mail. Or if you know a pressman you should be set. Feel free to email me [email protected]dnut
 
Evan said:
I work in the printing industry (newspapers etc.) and am using old 'blankets' as cushions everywhere something bolts to the frame. They seem to really cut down on vibrations. They are basically rubber sheets backed with canvas so they are quite durable. You could probably go to the local print shop (minuteman etc.) and ask if they have any used "blankets" I have pretty much an endless supply so if anyone has trouble finding them I would be willing to send them out if you pay the postage. I can't imagine an 8.5 x 11 sheet would cost more than a buck or 2 to mail. Or if you know a pressman you should be set. Feel free to email me [email protected]dnut
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That's a good tip, Evan. In a similar spirit of using what's available and works, I make my own moccasins and mukluks out of elk hide. I use scraps as pads wherever something bolts to the frame. Part of my motivation is that I just finished painting an old Elgin bike and want to protect it. So, I cut the pieces to size and then use a bit of contact cement to glue the leather onto the part... not on the frame itself but the part, including engine mounts. This works very well, protects the paintand no doubt helps a bit with vibration and noise.
SB
 
silverbear said:
That's a good tip, Evan. In a similar spirit of using what's available and works, I make my own moccasins and mukluks out of elk hide. I use scraps as pads wherever something bolts to the frame. Part of my motivation is that I just finished painting an old Elgin bike and want to protect it. So, I cut the pieces to size and then use a bit of contact cement to glue the leather onto the part... not on the frame itself but the part, including engine mounts. This works very well, protects the paintand no doubt helps a bit with vibration and noise.
SB
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Good one.......and yours has the added benefit of keeping your girl warm!
Evandance1
 
another good anti-rattle fix for fenders, chainguard clamps, and whatever else clamps to the frame, is heat shrink tubing.

here's a pic of my fender strut with a piece of 1/2" shrinked to it:
 

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bairdco said:
another good anti-rattle fix for fenders, chainguard clamps, and whatever else clamps to the frame, is heat shrink tubing.

here's a pic of my fender strut with a piece of 1/2" shrinked to it:
Click to expand...

Woah, why didn't I think of that.....better than duct tape even. Nice one.
 
take a tip...leave a tip

I like Trailblazerpetes Idea, my cut cable is frayed and looks like crap...Thank You Pete

drn2
 
Okay now I haven't left a tip in a long time because this is all so techie, and I'm just not very techie. However I have been experimenting with different kinds of tool pouches ect. Today I was looking around for something to hold my tools, when I spotted a very cheap pair of gloves. I have two bikes there are two gloves in a set. It just sounded about right to me.

I bought a pair of orange knit gloves. Probably cotton I don't know. But they were big enough to fit a 15mm wrench down into one of the fingers and a roll of tape into the palm. All in all it seems to be a pretty good solution. They had the knit cuff so I just tied it up with a bow and tossed it in the basket of the bike, but I think it would be just as easy to roll it up and tie it to the frame somewhere.
 
I use pencil pouches. You can find em at the dollar store sometimes and they fit enough for roadside stuff. If you have a basket on the bike you could carry a couple. they probably wouldn't keep your hands warm too though
 
o.k so i really want a bicycle with a motor and im a newbie so i have some Questions for the people who commented

1. do u have to pedal before starting the engine can u just turn it on then ride off?
2.Where can u find all black drag slick bicycle tires
3.Where can u find a all black 80 cc engine for under $150.00
4.I want nos so how many cc's of boost should i get under 150cc?
 
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