Intrepid Wheelwoman
New Member
Cool or wot mister! 
More Maytag Mayhem
- Thread starter cannonball2
- Start date
silverbear
The Boy Who Never Grew Up
Well done, sir!
SB
SB
cannonball2
Well-Known Member
Thanks everyone! I have really enjoyed this build just letting it be what it is. Really had nothing in mind when it started so seeing the parts fall where may has been interesting.
The next hurtle is getting the Maytag squared away. Wonder if the local Maytag dealer could handle it-lol.
The next hurtle is getting the Maytag squared away. Wonder if the local Maytag dealer could handle it-lol.
cannonball2
Well-Known Member
Well bit of bad luck on the Maytags magneto, has a bad coil. There is a new replacement for a mere $150(yikes!). Plus looks like the armature is from an earlier engine so the whole thing is cobbled.
Decided to convert to battery total loss ignition. Will run one Honda CB500 ignition coil which is a twin output along with its matching condenser. The original Maytag points will handle the timing. A three cell Lipo will power the system, and for quite sometime per charge. All this should fit quite nicely under the engine. I will come up with a period looking container for the battery and disguise the coil a bit.
Should run a bit better than stock and start a bit easier too.
All this will cost less than $50
Decided to convert to battery total loss ignition. Will run one Honda CB500 ignition coil which is a twin output along with its matching condenser. The original Maytag points will handle the timing. A three cell Lipo will power the system, and for quite sometime per charge. All this should fit quite nicely under the engine. I will come up with a period looking container for the battery and disguise the coil a bit.
Should run a bit better than stock and start a bit easier too.
All this will cost less than $50
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silverbear
The Boy Who Never Grew Up
I believe this comes under the category of "turning lemons into lemonade". Think of it as an upgrade.
SB
cannonball2
Well-Known Member
SB, you are right it is an upgrade actually. The engine will not look much different except the plug wires will no longer come from the magneto. I had contemplated this conversion before, so this was the perfect situation to do it.
L2- I looked for specs on amp draw on a common point and coil system. Not too much info out there since the system is so antiquated. I finally found a few numbers indicating amperage in the 2-2.5amp range for less than 40% of the time. This was however in a car forum involving V-8 systems. Not sure if this carries over to a single firing twin very well.
Using those specs a 5ah lipo should run around 3hrs just as yours did. That's more riding than I would probably do in two sessions.
L2- I looked for specs on amp draw on a common point and coil system. Not too much info out there since the system is so antiquated. I finally found a few numbers indicating amperage in the 2-2.5amp range for less than 40% of the time. This was however in a car forum involving V-8 systems. Not sure if this carries over to a single firing twin very well.
Using those specs a 5ah lipo should run around 3hrs just as yours did. That's more riding than I would probably do in two sessions.
Ludwig II
Well-Known Member
You wouldn't notice it even if you converted from self generating, but you will have a minor performance boost by removing electromagnetic drag from the engine. We gained 1.5 seconds a lap going total loss, with 3 riders all gaining the same advantage on a bike with no other changes.
cannonball2
Well-Known Member
Interesting! I was suspecting the magnets first before I read the ohm values for the coil. They were very weak. They are known to need re-magnetizing. This engine didn't have the momentary pull one feels when the magnets pass the armature, so perhaps there were two problems. The other two Maytags I have will knock you across the room if you happen to contact the unshielded plug.
Pulled the Maytag down to clean it a bit. Its down to its original patina, rust and chipped original black paint. I really want to clear it so the rust wont rust any more.
Would like to use a flat clear, but about the only thing I know of is polyurethane spray from Home Depot. Wonder if its bothered by heat. The old Maytags aren't particularly hot runners.
Its a pretty simple engine not a lot to it.
Pulled the Maytag down to clean it a bit. Its down to its original patina, rust and chipped original black paint. I really want to clear it so the rust wont rust any more.
Would like to use a flat clear, but about the only thing I know of is polyurethane spray from Home Depot. Wonder if its bothered by heat. The old Maytags aren't particularly hot runners.
Its a pretty simple engine not a lot to it.
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cannonball2
Well-Known Member
Moved on with the Maytag a bit. Notched and fitted the rope start pulley to the front part of the crank. This engine was bought as a parts engine and has a few condition issues. One of the rods has a small bit of play, and the governor was miss adjusted/stuck. The governor is a simple yet brilliant design, but it seems to elude most people on adjustment.
My idea is to lock it in the full bore position and throttle with the carb.
I really don't want to spin the little engine much past the mid 2k range so will probably have to limit the carb to very little travel.
I kicked around the idea of pulling the engine down and going through it now but decided to just run it(carefully) as is to prove the design concept of the bike, and deal with it later.
I still have one unused Maytag which is a excellent runner but Im loathe to use it for a project like this as its very historical being made in the first production run in 1937.
So its press on regardless.
My idea is to lock it in the full bore position and throttle with the carb.
I really don't want to spin the little engine much past the mid 2k range so will probably have to limit the carb to very little travel.
I kicked around the idea of pulling the engine down and going through it now but decided to just run it(carefully) as is to prove the design concept of the bike, and deal with it later.
I still have one unused Maytag which is a excellent runner but Im loathe to use it for a project like this as its very historical being made in the first production run in 1937.
So its press on regardless.
NEAT TIMES
New Member
BBBMW
(Bens Baby BMW)
CB2
One thing learned while racing stock cars, parts left out never break. If there is a strange noise coming from engine, put the pedal to the metal, the first piece that's flies out was the problem.
Think we are growing "fond" of BBBMW !!!
Will try load pic of my 12hp Whizzer twin opposed air cooled outboard motor. Another project overload gathering dust.
(Bens Baby BMW)
CB2
One thing learned while racing stock cars, parts left out never break. If there is a strange noise coming from engine, put the pedal to the metal, the first piece that's flies out was the problem.
Think we are growing "fond" of BBBMW !!!
Will try load pic of my 12hp Whizzer twin opposed air cooled outboard motor. Another project overload gathering dust.
Attachments
cannonball2
Well-Known Member
Ron you have it all! Tell us about the Whizzer Twin.
L2- Cool old bikes! Im really fond of the Scott. I read an account of a fellow test riding one when I was a kid and have been fascinated since. Have always liked the Douglas. Harley also had a fore and aft.
So when finished I will have a N/S and an E/W pair of Maytags, I can now travel all points of the compass.
L2- Cool old bikes! Im really fond of the Scott. I read an account of a fellow test riding one when I was a kid and have been fascinated since. Have always liked the Douglas. Harley also had a fore and aft.
So when finished I will have a N/S and an E/W pair of Maytags, I can now travel all points of the compass.
Attachments
cannonball2
Well-Known Member
Yep its an FD. Some times its very dry, some times not. The Gulf Stream influences my life as well as yours. Its best to have alternate means.
Of all the complex machines I have at my disposal there is nothing as soothing as the mechanical simplicity of an FD. A well built one just eases along. There are many ways to propel things, I think some times the simplest is the most enjoyable. I have ridden long distances, seen and experienced many things on an FD. When I got home, I just had to have a laugh that my transmission consisted of a wooden roller.
Of all the complex machines I have at my disposal there is nothing as soothing as the mechanical simplicity of an FD. A well built one just eases along. There are many ways to propel things, I think some times the simplest is the most enjoyable. I have ridden long distances, seen and experienced many things on an FD. When I got home, I just had to have a laugh that my transmission consisted of a wooden roller.
cannonball2
Well-Known Member
Got a bit of refinement work done on the bike today. Could not find a belt that fit. The calc indicated a 20.45" belt and it wasnt kidding. A 21 was way loose and a 20 held the roller half an inch from the tire. Only thing to do was add an idler. Got the engine going back together and the exhaust on. The space man muffler clears all pedaling easily, but will ruin shoes and pants if one forgets to put the right leg into the rear pedal position.
Got the engines patina where I wanted by using satin finish applied with a rag.
Just waiting on parts. Bought a pretty cool looking 1969 Yamaha tool box to use as a battery box. will mount under the seat or there abouts.
Throttle is gonna be a hand lever I think mounted off the left cylinder.
Got the engines patina where I wanted by using satin finish applied with a rag.
Just waiting on parts. Bought a pretty cool looking 1969 Yamaha tool box to use as a battery box. will mount under the seat or there abouts.
Throttle is gonna be a hand lever I think mounted off the left cylinder.
Attachments
MEASURE TWICE
Well-Known Member
I've used adjustable diameter pulley, but to get the belt on where I use it I can make slack and then take it up again. That is the rear wheel in the drop outs, I move the rear wheel with pulley mounted to it forward and then back in place aft, after belt is on.
After a few tries making the adjustable diameter pulley larger to get the right amount of tension, then I have the rear wheel pulley in the drop outs and all is set to the right tension.
I think I see it is the one belt yet to have an idler for the engine to the jackshaft. That would mean that you have to make another idler in your construction?
Anyway just throwing that out there, don't know if it is of any use in the circumstances you found of current.
I know some mail order (but with minimum order like $75) that have 1/2 inch increments on A section v-belts. There is also Link type section belts that are A section. Those though have a limit to the amount of tension they can handle.
Popping the belt over the edge of a washing machine pulley attached to rear wheel spokes is what I have done in some cases, but it stress the belt and the pulley. The older steel large diameter pulley I had ages ago was good and would not be harmed, but cast white metal was all I could get for free. Even if I were to buy steel pulley if it still existed today it would cost more than the Whizzer clone sheave. The washing machine white metal cast spoked pulley mounted on my rear wheel cracked. I had an extra, but it eventually wore out and I got a Whizzer clone type sheave made of steel.
MT
After a few tries making the adjustable diameter pulley larger to get the right amount of tension, then I have the rear wheel pulley in the drop outs and all is set to the right tension.
I think I see it is the one belt yet to have an idler for the engine to the jackshaft. That would mean that you have to make another idler in your construction?
Anyway just throwing that out there, don't know if it is of any use in the circumstances you found of current.
I know some mail order (but with minimum order like $75) that have 1/2 inch increments on A section v-belts. There is also Link type section belts that are A section. Those though have a limit to the amount of tension they can handle.
Popping the belt over the edge of a washing machine pulley attached to rear wheel spokes is what I have done in some cases, but it stress the belt and the pulley. The older steel large diameter pulley I had ages ago was good and would not be harmed, but cast white metal was all I could get for free. Even if I were to buy steel pulley if it still existed today it would cost more than the Whizzer clone sheave. The washing machine white metal cast spoked pulley mounted on my rear wheel cracked. I had an extra, but it eventually wore out and I got a Whizzer clone type sheave made of steel.
MT
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