More Maytag Mayhem
- Thread starter cannonball2
- Start date
Boy, I've looking and looking. Not with the other 3 speed hubs... what could I have done with it? Then I started wondering if I'm mistaken and don't have one and never did. If not altimers then at least halftimers... and a preview of coming detractions. I've got rust holes in me memory bank. Shot some WD-40 into both ears and reamed things out with a knotted cord... home made mental floss... and it came to me... Yes! I remembered something! Couldn't find it because I had already boxed it up for you a week back when I offered it the first time and you decided to give the Shimano a try. So, I have it and soon won't, but you will. It's a model AW.
SB
SB
Got the radiator, but put it in the wrong thread. Heres the link. http://motorbicycling.com/showpost.php?p=605421&postcount=145
Am thinking seriously of using copper tubing wrapped into the cylinders fins. Using 1/4" I think I can get two wraps per fin, or six per cylinder. This is not a super hot runner and using a pulse pump the circulation should be pretty good. I have seen these little pumps move a lot of fuel through 1/4" fuel line is a short time. The radiator should be a bit of overkill for this engine.
Also bought this cart wheel for a flywheel. Should be a real challenge with out a trip to the machine shop!
Am thinking seriously of using copper tubing wrapped into the cylinders fins. Using 1/4" I think I can get two wraps per fin, or six per cylinder. This is not a super hot runner and using a pulse pump the circulation should be pretty good. I have seen these little pumps move a lot of fuel through 1/4" fuel line is a short time. The radiator should be a bit of overkill for this engine.
Also bought this cart wheel for a flywheel. Should be a real challenge with out a trip to the machine shop!
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Nice flywheel CB, very nice indeed
Your proposed water cooling method is very interesting. I haven't done a blind thing towards my own water cooled head project wot with being sick and all.
Thank IWW! I haven't given up the idea of soldered water jackets over the cylinder. I was reading about soldering cast iron and it doesn't sound as easy to solder as the more commonly soldered materials. Was thinking of bonding the jackets but one of my favorites 3M 5200 gives up in the low 200sF. JB weld is good for 600F. Still kicking around which way to go.
The flywheel is something I have wanted to do since I saw the beautiful gate valve handle you bought. This is not as pretty not having the swept spokes, but it lends a period industrial look, and was only $23 shipped. Cheap enough to experiment with.
Im hoping to be able to mod this to work myself, but that's doubtful. Its not as big as it looks measuring only 8" but that is the same size as the current flywheel. Im hoping to maybe be able to start the engine by giving it a good turn, probably wish full thinking.
Hope you get better soon!!
The flywheel is something I have wanted to do since I saw the beautiful gate valve handle you bought. This is not as pretty not having the swept spokes, but it lends a period industrial look, and was only $23 shipped. Cheap enough to experiment with.
Im hoping to be able to mod this to work myself, but that's doubtful. Its not as big as it looks measuring only 8" but that is the same size as the current flywheel. Im hoping to maybe be able to start the engine by giving it a good turn, probably wish full thinking.
Hope you get better soon!!
Thanks CB
Yes soldering cast iron is tricky because every spot of oil hiding in the pores of the metal has to got rid off and everything has to be seriously clean. The carbon and silica content in cast iron doesn't help either.
I considered trying to reuse some part of the original head from my Villiers Mk 15. The plan being that I would remove all the fins and the old intake and exhaust ports and then build on what was left, but after going to all that trouble it started to look like it simply being easier to start from scratch.
Yes soldering cast iron is tricky because every spot of oil hiding in the pores of the metal has to got rid off and everything has to be seriously clean. The carbon and silica content in cast iron doesn't help either.
I considered trying to reuse some part of the original head from my Villiers Mk 15. The plan being that I would remove all the fins and the old intake and exhaust ports and then build on what was left, but after going to all that trouble it started to look like it simply being easier to start from scratch.
How hot do you need to be able to withstand? Try these for a start.
http://www.masterbond.com/propertie...sistant-bonding-sealing-and-coating-compounds
http://www.masterbond.com/propertie...sistant-bonding-sealing-and-coating-compounds
I wish the webpages would display the latest info rather than conclude with the first display every time. The engine stands as one of the most interesting I'd thought it would be seen on at least one bike with shaft style drive but maybe there's a problem with that making too much sense anyway that's the only combo I'd find excused ..
Thanks for the links L2! I would think something in the 400F range as a minimum. Will probably give the copper tubing a try by wrapping a cylinder to see how it goes.
THANKS SB!!
Got the AW aka Miss Piggy this am and got it installed. Was really worried about how compatible the Shimano parts were, mainly the converted pulley. Turns out it was a direct replacement. I only had to shuffle some spacer washers around, and threw on some friction tape for a temporary drive.
I will need to find the proper parts to hook up the shifter, but I rigged it enough to give it a try with the Shimano unit. Works like a charm! Got the bike to 22mph, faster than it has ever gone.
The SA hub is really too big in diameter(being its a drive roller) for the limited HP of the Maytag. The Shimano was ideal at 1.75" versus the SAs 2.25" It will pull high gear but only after really winding out second. The simple fix is to lower the final ratio with a smaller pulley on the roller side of the intermediate shaft. This will tailor the speed range to the Maytag. Not a big deal at all.
I gave the hub a big drink of oil, she was pretty thirsty! Had to remove the oiler on the hub as it hit the tire. Its easy enough to add oil through the shift rod hole. The SA hub is plenty robust and works differently internally than the Shimano, so I expect it will be up to the job long term.
Heres a few pics of the hub and the bike.
Once again thanks SB!!
Got the AW aka Miss Piggy this am and got it installed. Was really worried about how compatible the Shimano parts were, mainly the converted pulley. Turns out it was a direct replacement. I only had to shuffle some spacer washers around, and threw on some friction tape for a temporary drive.
I will need to find the proper parts to hook up the shifter, but I rigged it enough to give it a try with the Shimano unit. Works like a charm! Got the bike to 22mph, faster than it has ever gone.
The SA hub is really too big in diameter(being its a drive roller) for the limited HP of the Maytag. The Shimano was ideal at 1.75" versus the SAs 2.25" It will pull high gear but only after really winding out second. The simple fix is to lower the final ratio with a smaller pulley on the roller side of the intermediate shaft. This will tailor the speed range to the Maytag. Not a big deal at all.
I gave the hub a big drink of oil, she was pretty thirsty! Had to remove the oiler on the hub as it hit the tire. Its easy enough to add oil through the shift rod hole. The SA hub is plenty robust and works differently internally than the Shimano, so I expect it will be up to the job long term.
Heres a few pics of the hub and the bike.
Once again thanks SB!!
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Well I always say when one is messing around with something mess around with it good.
A while back Mrsfan suggested I lace down the rubber drive I was using with wire through the spoke holes. Great idea! However its almost impossible to pull the wire tight enough when lacing. So I put a different spin on it. I spoked it!
The spokes bite down into the tire tread well giving a very positive drive. Im thinking it may also drive in the wet! This method of drive seems almost like a displacement drive rather than the classic friction contact drive. Each spoke drives a tread knob similar to a gear tooth. I bet this would drive like heck on the right knobby type tire! Amazingly its smooth, I thought it might be kind of notchy, but I guess the spoke spacing is close enough to prevent this. I will now be able to reinstall the oil cap. Looks like some sort of Gatling Gun from the spoke end!
Miss Piggy is dressed to kill!
We will see how this works out.
A while back Mrsfan suggested I lace down the rubber drive I was using with wire through the spoke holes. Great idea! However its almost impossible to pull the wire tight enough when lacing. So I put a different spin on it. I spoked it!
The spokes bite down into the tire tread well giving a very positive drive. Im thinking it may also drive in the wet! This method of drive seems almost like a displacement drive rather than the classic friction contact drive. Each spoke drives a tread knob similar to a gear tooth. I bet this would drive like heck on the right knobby type tire! Amazingly its smooth, I thought it might be kind of notchy, but I guess the spoke spacing is close enough to prevent this. I will now be able to reinstall the oil cap. Looks like some sort of Gatling Gun from the spoke end!
Miss Piggy is dressed to kill!
We will see how this works out.
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Miss Piggy does have a serious demeanor like a muscle bound girl with braces. I think you have stumbled upon something good here and I think you're right about it driving in the wet. Plus, she gets her oiler back. Queen of the roller derby, Miss Piggy! May she live long and well.
SB
SB
I got a chance to test this crazy concept and it drives very well! Only problem is now the roller is even bigger and harder for the Maytag to run. Am going to do a systems redo on the shifting set up, anchoring the cable end to the hubs mount. It was an engineering oversight to have the cable anchored to the bikes frame changing the tension on the gear cable when clutching.
Also will have to redo the gearing on the final drive side lowering the ratio substantially. Once these issues are handled I believe this will be a pretty fun little ride.
This tire on the 3speed fixie bike would make a great companion for the spoke drive as the spokes engage the center knobs. Truly a positive sort of drive.
Also will have to redo the gearing on the final drive side lowering the ratio substantially. Once these issues are handled I believe this will be a pretty fun little ride.
This tire on the 3speed fixie bike would make a great companion for the spoke drive as the spokes engage the center knobs. Truly a positive sort of drive.
