modified cdi and cr 80 coil

ivan H said:
Hi, I've been using C106D1, Vmax 400, IE(A) 4, VF(V) 2.2, IG(uA) 200, VG(V) 0.8, Hold In(mA) 3. If u can get an industrial rated C106D1 SCR they r much better quality & have way better thermal characteristics, but just an ordinary old C106D1 will b fine usually. I havent had 1 fail & dont heatsink them. I was going 2 put 1 together over the weekend but the local outlet is outta polypropylenes so it'll b a couple of days. Cheers
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The parts list now reflects the SCR needed and a reference link for it.
 
Maniaman said:
CDIboard.jpg


Heres the inside of the cdi, if some one that has one of these will make a wiring diagram and list the parts. $75 for this is intense i wonder what he pays his employes...
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can someone please show me which diagram is the correct jaguar, 4 setting CDI.
also what the different jumper settings do???
 
Ok, I modified the 1st unit I built 2 Dracothered's spec. All I can say is it works. I cant test the advanced settings as between doing piston port mods 2 properly utilize reeds & the weather warming up I started getting lo end detonation so had 2 retard a few degrees. I'm now using stock Jag spec with the 120 ohm A jumper in place & an added 0.022uf in the retard network to steepen the curve. Moonmatrix, I'll find the post No. & get back 2 u. Cheers
 
Hi Moonmatrix, use Dracothered's schematic, but leave out the 27 ohm & jumper & the 100 ohm & jumper. Leave out the jumper around the 390 ohm & the jumper on the 16 ohm. 1 end goes to the kathode, the other to earth. On the Jag unit the 16 ohm is made up of a 15 ohm & 1 ohm in series, but if u use 1% metal film resistors u'll get 1 in 16 ohm. Cheers
 
ivan H said:
Ok, I modified the 1st unit I built 2 Dracothered's spec. All I can say is it works. I cant test the advanced settings as between doing piston port mods 2 properly utilize reeds & the weather warming up I started getting lo end detonation so had 2 retard a few degrees. I'm now using stock Jag spec with the 120 ohm A jumper in place & an added 0.022uf in the retard network to steepen the curve. Moonmatrix, I'll find the post No. & get back 2 u. Cheers
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Cool I'm glad to hear it is working out and even if you couldn't test the other setting we now know 100% that it works. Plus it sounds like it does all that it should do and needs to do.
 
ivan H said:
Hi Moonmatrix, use Dracothered's schematic, but leave out the 27 ohm & jumper & the 100 ohm & jumper. Leave out the jumper around the 390 ohm & the jumper on the 16 ohm. 1 end goes to the kathode, the other to earth. On the Jag unit the 16 ohm is made up of a 15 ohm & 1 ohm in series, but if u use 1% metal film resistors u'll get 1 in 16 ohm. Cheers
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so i understand you correctly, you say get rid of the other settings and just use one timing curve and then adjust as needed??
via capacitance??

also, i was thinking about somone saying you cant actually advance the spark without changing the position of the magnet..

Rocket keys anyone???
http://motorparts4less.com/products.php?id=1119

can either advance or retard timing exactly 10 degrees depending on how you install it.

so advance the timing 10 degrees and add capacitors until you have proper advance at high rpm and proper retard at low RPM (or vice versa i get confused)
 
Hi moonmatrix, I thought u wanted the Jag circuit. If u want the most flexability, use as Dracothered's schematic as is. This CDI adjusts the spark, if u make a timing mark for reference, & put a timing light on it u'll see that it does, without a doubt. Cheers
 
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as for the jumper settings, the jumpers on the 120 & 220 ohm resistors retard the whole timing, test under lo rpm load (uphill), the other 2 steepen the retard curve, test at high rpm for best setting. Cheers
 
Hi, no matter which version of this u build, they all give that. Aside from the jumpers the main feature is that they retard the timing at higher rpm, which is wot a 2 stroke needs. The jumpers on the 120 & 220 ohm resistors r 4 best lo rpm torque, the jumpers on the timing caps r 4 best hi rpm revs. Cheers
 
I've got a JAG that bought. But I'm building one so I can compare to the original from JNM. I Buit a race engine and put my JAG on it. UNFKN believable . When I buy the parts I have to buy packages a 10 so I'm going to have some for sale soon . The work bench is set up so I'll just work my down the line.
 
Hi HuffyD, the Jag has 16 ohm pulldown resistor (15+1), with a 120 & 220 ohm with jumpers 2 earth in paralell with. Betweet the SCR's cathode & gate is 1k & 390 ohm. The 33 ohm resistor connects 2 the junction of the 1k & 390 ohm. 760 ohm in timing R/C network & both 0.47uf caps have jumpers 2 earth. The schematic by Dracothered is a combination of this variant & 1 derived from the international model KDX. I usually give them away 2 friends. Cheers
 
Hey Ivan, thanks for the insight. Well I guess your freinds act like thing use to be in this country . However, the guys I ride with always want to make want kind of petty deal and its gona be my leverage to get some welding done in 1 case . So I'm going to get this done well are doomed society is still flourishing .LOL
 
Hi Huffy D, well, if it gets ur welding done & that sortta thing its a good thing. BTW, I find I get a bit better performance using the variant with the 27 ohm pulldown resistor & with 1k & 100 ohm between the gate & cathode, everything else being the same, especially down lo to mid. Easy to try & just change the 2 resistors (to 16 & 390 ohm) if u dont like. Cheers
 
Ivan, start file in Top-away-toolbox and your ideas will file tweaking-out-mod-cdi. Thanks again, pm me your e-mail and I'll send you pics. I always wanted come down there. I love the architecture in Sydney .
 
would it be ok to change the poly caps (0.47uF 275v Polypropylene) to 250V instead of 275V???

I can only get 250V from jaycar at the moment.
 
Hi, yeah, that'll be fine. They're listed in their catalogue as 250VAC, but I've got them marked sometimes 275, sometimes 250. Just make sure u get the -X2 Style, catalogue No. RG-5234. Cheers
 
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