modified cdi and cr 80 coil

GoldenMotor.com

ivan H

Member
Oct 8, 2011
622
1
16
australia
Hi Huffy D, well, if it gets ur welding done & that sortta thing its a good thing. BTW, I find I get a bit better performance using the variant with the 27 ohm pulldown resistor & with 1k & 100 ohm between the gate & cathode, everything else being the same, especially down lo to mid. Easy to try & just change the 2 resistors (to 16 & 390 ohm) if u dont like. Cheers
 

Huffydavidson

STREETRACER/MANUFACTURER
Jan 29, 2012
1,076
4
38
st.louis,mo.
Ivan, start file in Top-away-toolbox and your ideas will file tweaking-out-mod-cdi. Thanks again, pm me your e-mail and I'll send you pics. I always wanted come down there. I love the architecture in Sydney .
 

soup325

Member
Dec 11, 2010
181
0
16
Canberra
would it be ok to change the poly caps (0.47uF 275v Polypropylene) to 250V instead of 275V???

I can only get 250V from jaycar at the moment.
 

ivan H

Member
Oct 8, 2011
622
1
16
australia
Hi, yeah, that'll be fine. They're listed in their catalogue as 250VAC, but I've got them marked sometimes 275, sometimes 250. Just make sure u get the -X2 Style, catalogue No. RG-5234. Cheers
 

soup325

Member
Dec 11, 2010
181
0
16
Canberra
-X2 Style, catalogue No. RG-5234 < yeah those are the ones.

Now, I just need to wait for the rest of my ebay electronics to arrive.
 

ivan H

Member
Oct 8, 2011
622
1
16
australia
U can get everything at Jacar off shelf, SCR cat No. ZX-7006, tantalum caps, 4.7uf RZ-6640,,, 0.47uf, RZ-6626,, jumper pins HM-3211,, jumper shunts HM-3240,,, 1/2watt 1% metal film resistors in 8pack 26 cents each, IN4007 diodes singly few cents each & small bit of prototype board about 4 bucks. All up around 10 bucks. Cheers
 

skitchfish

Member
Oct 27, 2010
222
0
16
Michigan
Wow! Thank you so much for this easy list and vendor. It's a dream come true. I was unsuccessful on a couple of different attempts trying to order on net from unfamiliar sites just because of the time it took to wade through there overwhelming inventory.

Thank you Draco, for your circuit design talent and making things so clear and comprehensible. The diagrams and schematics are awesome.

This easy list and vendor reawakens my interest in trying this, I was really getting frustrated after 45 minutes and not having anything ordered. They would either not have the component or it would be just a tick off of the spec. Thank you Ivan and Draco.
Now that the weather has turned here in MI. it's my goal to become competent at soldering.
 

ivan H

Member
Oct 8, 2011
622
1
16
australia
No problem. Note the jumper pins r listed as "header stakes", tho the cat No. will get u there. I've beenn running variations of this CDI since b4 I got Headtrauma 2 post the schematic 4 me. This 1 is actually 2 variations in 1 & allows widespread timing options if all jumper options r understood properly. 1 or the other variation needs to b selected with jumpers, 1 being a bit more advanced than the stock jag circuit. Cheers
 

soup325

Member
Dec 11, 2010
181
0
16
Canberra
the ebay components i ordered (resistors) were like 46cents for 100 of them, each.

plus free shipping of course.

thanks for that ivan.
 

misel

New Member
Nov 22, 2012
39
0
0
Jakarta
Hi Moonmatrix, use Dracothered's schematic, but leave out the 27 ohm & jumper & the 100 ohm & jumper. Leave out the jumper around the 390 ohm & the jumper on the 16 ohm. 1 end goes to the kathode, the other to earth. On the Jag unit the 16 ohm is made up of a 15 ohm & 1 ohm in series, but if u use 1% metal film resistors u'll get 1 in 16 ohm. Cheers
Thank you Ivan and Dracothered for sharing. Now this new hobby (new to me) has became more interesting.
There are some jumpers I still don't know the effect though, jumper 2 and 5 , what effect do these give if I switch them?
 

ivan H

Member
Oct 8, 2011
622
1
16
australia
Re: Waterproofing a mag?

Ok, Hi all, I havent been here in a while but anyway, I'll explain it again. This unit is essentially selectable between the stock Jag unit (or wotever name its sold under), & another that is closer to the International model KDX circuit that has a more advanced overall timing curve than the Jag unit. To select between the two u use the jumpers numbered 4 & 5 on the schematic. Looking at the #4 jumper u can see that it can select one end of either a 16 or 27 ohm resistor, the other ends of the resistors being connected to earth. Looking at the #5 jumper, u can see that it can bridge (connect to both ends of, thus shorting it) either a 390 or a 100 ohm resistor. Ok, it is very important to select the correct combination with these 2 jumpers. If u want to select the origonal Jaguar unit, the #4 jumper must be connected to the 16 ohm pulldown resistor, leaving the 27 ohm not connected & out of the circuit. The #5 jumper must bridge the 100 ohm resistor, essentially shorting it from end to end with a solid wire (the jumper) & taking it out of the circuit. There, thats it,,, "A" & "B" jumpers wok the same in either mode. To select the more advanced timing setting, simply swap the positions of the #4 & #5 jumpers, so that means the #4 will be connected to the 27 ohm resistor, & the #5 jumper bridging the 390 ohm. If u get the combination of these 2 jumpers mixed up, (like is shown in the schematic, I noticed), it wont hurt the CDI, wot it will do is either advance the timing too much (27 with 100 bridged), or it will retard the timing too much (16 with 390 bridged). So again, correct setting of 4 & 5 is,,,,, for Jag spec 16 & bridge 100 ohm. Cheers