Hi, I've been using C106D1, Vmax 400, IE(A) 4, VF(V) 2.2, IG(uA) 200, VG(V) 0.8, Hold In(mA) 3. If u can get an industrial rated C106D1 SCR they r much better quality & have way better thermal characteristics, but just an ordinary old C106D1 will b fine usually. I havent had 1 fail & dont heatsink them. I was going 2 put 1 together over the weekend but the local outlet is outta polypropylenes so it'll b a couple of days. Cheers
modified cdi and cr 80 coil
- Thread starter damo99
- Start date
Have you ever touched the SCR after running it for a while, was it warm to the touch or to hot to touch for very long? But it is good to hear that you haven't had one fail yet.
The one I listed which is in a 220 package style if I remember right I like better because it has the tab which is like a small heat sink its self.
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hanks Dracothered and Ivan.
Im trying to buy local (OZ), if I can. Let alone trying to by it in Canberra as it is very hard, as there is very little options in terms of industrial suppliers here.
I like the sound industrial rated stuff. any links or contacts? do any of the following links provide any industrial product standard?
http://www.electusdistribution.com....ATID=33&keywords=&SPECIAL=&form=CAT&SUBCATID=
http://australia.rs-online.com/web/p/thyristor/6254988/
http://www.tech4u.com.au/c106d1-400v-4a-scr-p207114.html
also, I might buy this PCB etching kit to build my board
http://www.tech4u.com.au/pcb-etching-kit-p203556.html
Im trying to buy local (OZ), if I can. Let alone trying to by it in Canberra as it is very hard, as there is very little options in terms of industrial suppliers here.
I like the sound industrial rated stuff. any links or contacts? do any of the following links provide any industrial product standard?
http://www.electusdistribution.com....ATID=33&keywords=&SPECIAL=&form=CAT&SUBCATID=
http://australia.rs-online.com/web/p/thyristor/6254988/
http://www.tech4u.com.au/c106d1-400v-4a-scr-p207114.html
also, I might buy this PCB etching kit to build my board
http://www.tech4u.com.au/pcb-etching-kit-p203556.html
Hi, yes, I've felt all components, after hour plus ride. They dont even get warm. As I posted, a C106D1 is a 400V, 4A SCR & its only passing spikes, not continuos current. 1/2 watt resistors say it all really, & they dont get warm. Kawasaki used a C106D1 unheatsinked in the origonal CDI. U should have no problem getting all components in Canberra, I posted Jaycar catalogue No.s a few posts back 2 make it easy 4 people in Oz. Cheers
C post 210 for Jaycar catalogue No.s. I do think it will b possible 2 run 2 far advanced without care with this setup, but I've told how 2 check 4. I've been running these 4 a long while & the most advanced I've used is with 27 ohm pulldown & 1k & 100 ohm in series between kathode & gate. Cheers
i wouldnt worry about buying a pcb board etching kit unless u have other uses 4. Like I said, I use pre drilled prototype board ($4) with the copper foil tracks laid vertically & it all lines up perfect, then I dremel off the unwanted tracks. Cheers
can someone please show me which diagram is the correct jaguar, 4 setting CDI.
Heres the inside of the cdi, if some one that has one of these will make a wiring diagram and list the parts. $75 for this is intense i wonder what he pays his employes...
also what the different jumper settings do???
Ok, I modified the 1st unit I built 2 Dracothered's spec. All I can say is it works. I cant test the advanced settings as between doing piston port mods 2 properly utilize reeds & the weather warming up I started getting lo end detonation so had 2 retard a few degrees. I'm now using stock Jag spec with the 120 ohm A jumper in place & an added 0.022uf in the retard network to steepen the curve. Moonmatrix, I'll find the post No. & get back 2 u. Cheers
Hi Moonmatrix, use Dracothered's schematic, but leave out the 27 ohm & jumper & the 100 ohm & jumper. Leave out the jumper around the 390 ohm & the jumper on the 16 ohm. 1 end goes to the kathode, the other to earth. On the Jag unit the 16 ohm is made up of a 15 ohm & 1 ohm in series, but if u use 1% metal film resistors u'll get 1 in 16 ohm. Cheers
Cool I'm glad to hear it is working out and even if you couldn't test the other setting we now know 100% that it works. Plus it sounds like it does all that it should do and needs to do.
so i understand you correctly, you say get rid of the other settings and just use one timing curve and then adjust as needed??
via capacitance??
also, i was thinking about somone saying you cant actually advance the spark without changing the position of the magnet..
Rocket keys anyone???
http://motorparts4less.com/products.php?id=1119
can either advance or retard timing exactly 10 degrees depending on how you install it.
so advance the timing 10 degrees and add capacitors until you have proper advance at high rpm and proper retard at low RPM (or vice versa i get confused)
Hi moonmatrix, I thought u wanted the Jag circuit. If u want the most flexability, use as Dracothered's schematic as is. This CDI adjusts the spark, if u make a timing mark for reference, & put a timing light on it u'll see that it does, without a doubt. Cheers
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i wanna build a CDI with a torquey low end setting for hill climbing and then a speed setting for turning most RPMs
Hi, no matter which version of this u build, they all give that. Aside from the jumpers the main feature is that they retard the timing at higher rpm, which is wot a 2 stroke needs. The jumpers on the 120 & 220 ohm resistors r 4 best lo rpm torque, the jumpers on the timing caps r 4 best hi rpm revs. Cheers
I've got a JAG that bought. But I'm building one so I can compare to the original from JNM. I Buit a race engine and put my JAG on it. UNFKN believable . When I buy the parts I have to buy packages a 10 so I'm going to have some for sale soon . The work bench is set up so I'll just work my down the line.
Hi HuffyD, the Jag has 16 ohm pulldown resistor (15+1), with a 120 & 220 ohm with jumpers 2 earth in paralell with. Betweet the SCR's cathode & gate is 1k & 390 ohm. The 33 ohm resistor connects 2 the junction of the 1k & 390 ohm. 760 ohm in timing R/C network & both 0.47uf caps have jumpers 2 earth. The schematic by Dracothered is a combination of this variant & 1 derived from the international model KDX. I usually give them away 2 friends. Cheers
Hey Ivan, thanks for the insight. Well I guess your freinds act like thing use to be in this country . However, the guys I ride with always want to make want kind of petty deal and its gona be my leverage to get some welding done in 1 case . So I'm going to get this done well are doomed society is still flourishing .LOL