modified cdi and cr 80 coil
- Thread starter damo99
- Start date
U can get everything at Jacar off shelf, SCR cat No. ZX-7006, tantalum caps, 4.7uf RZ-6640,,, 0.47uf, RZ-6626,, jumper pins HM-3211,, jumper shunts HM-3240,,, 1/2watt 1% metal film resistors in 8pack 26 cents each, IN4007 diodes singly few cents each & small bit of prototype board about 4 bucks. All up around 10 bucks. Cheers
skitchfish
Member
Wow! Thank you so much for this easy list and vendor. It's a dream come true. I was unsuccessful on a couple of different attempts trying to order on net from unfamiliar sites just because of the time it took to wade through there overwhelming inventory.
Thank you Draco, for your circuit design talent and making things so clear and comprehensible. The diagrams and schematics are awesome.
This easy list and vendor reawakens my interest in trying this, I was really getting frustrated after 45 minutes and not having anything ordered. They would either not have the component or it would be just a tick off of the spec. Thank you Ivan and Draco.
Now that the weather has turned here in MI. it's my goal to become competent at soldering.
Thank you Draco, for your circuit design talent and making things so clear and comprehensible. The diagrams and schematics are awesome.
This easy list and vendor reawakens my interest in trying this, I was really getting frustrated after 45 minutes and not having anything ordered. They would either not have the component or it would be just a tick off of the spec. Thank you Ivan and Draco.
Now that the weather has turned here in MI. it's my goal to become competent at soldering.
skitchfish
Member
oopps! That's in OZ! Once again I wasn't paying attention. HaHa! LOL.
No problem. Note the jumper pins r listed as "header stakes", tho the cat No. will get u there. I've beenn running variations of this CDI since b4 I got Headtrauma 2 post the schematic 4 me. This 1 is actually 2 variations in 1 & allows widespread timing options if all jumper options r understood properly. 1 or the other variation needs to b selected with jumpers, 1 being a bit more advanced than the stock jag circuit. Cheers
Thank you Ivan and Dracothered for sharing. Now this new hobby (new to me) has became more interesting.
There are some jumpers I still don't know the effect though, jumper 2 and 5 , what effect do these give if I switch them?
Re: Waterproofing a mag?
Ok, Hi all, I havent been here in a while but anyway, I'll explain it again. This unit is essentially selectable between the stock Jag unit (or wotever name its sold under), & another that is closer to the International model KDX circuit that has a more advanced overall timing curve than the Jag unit. To select between the two u use the jumpers numbered 4 & 5 on the schematic. Looking at the #4 jumper u can see that it can select one end of either a 16 or 27 ohm resistor, the other ends of the resistors being connected to earth. Looking at the #5 jumper, u can see that it can bridge (connect to both ends of, thus shorting it) either a 390 or a 100 ohm resistor. Ok, it is very important to select the correct combination with these 2 jumpers. If u want to select the origonal Jaguar unit, the #4 jumper must be connected to the 16 ohm pulldown resistor, leaving the 27 ohm not connected & out of the circuit. The #5 jumper must bridge the 100 ohm resistor, essentially shorting it from end to end with a solid wire (the jumper) & taking it out of the circuit. There, thats it,,, "A" & "B" jumpers wok the same in either mode. To select the more advanced timing setting, simply swap the positions of the #4 & #5 jumpers, so that means the #4 will be connected to the 27 ohm resistor, & the #5 jumper bridging the 390 ohm. If u get the combination of these 2 jumpers mixed up, (like is shown in the schematic, I noticed), it wont hurt the CDI, wot it will do is either advance the timing too much (27 with 100 bridged), or it will retard the timing too much (16 with 390 bridged). So again, correct setting of 4 & 5 is,,,,, for Jag spec 16 & bridge 100 ohm. Cheers
Ok, Hi all, I havent been here in a while but anyway, I'll explain it again. This unit is essentially selectable between the stock Jag unit (or wotever name its sold under), & another that is closer to the International model KDX circuit that has a more advanced overall timing curve than the Jag unit. To select between the two u use the jumpers numbered 4 & 5 on the schematic. Looking at the #4 jumper u can see that it can select one end of either a 16 or 27 ohm resistor, the other ends of the resistors being connected to earth. Looking at the #5 jumper, u can see that it can bridge (connect to both ends of, thus shorting it) either a 390 or a 100 ohm resistor. Ok, it is very important to select the correct combination with these 2 jumpers. If u want to select the origonal Jaguar unit, the #4 jumper must be connected to the 16 ohm pulldown resistor, leaving the 27 ohm not connected & out of the circuit. The #5 jumper must bridge the 100 ohm resistor, essentially shorting it from end to end with a solid wire (the jumper) & taking it out of the circuit. There, thats it,,, "A" & "B" jumpers wok the same in either mode. To select the more advanced timing setting, simply swap the positions of the #4 & #5 jumpers, so that means the #4 will be connected to the 27 ohm resistor, & the #5 jumper bridging the 390 ohm. If u get the combination of these 2 jumpers mixed up, (like is shown in the schematic, I noticed), it wont hurt the CDI, wot it will do is either advance the timing too much (27 with 100 bridged), or it will retard the timing too much (16 with 390 bridged). So again, correct setting of 4 & 5 is,,,,, for Jag spec 16 & bridge 100 ohm. Cheers
dracothered
New Member
I updated the circuit diagram to reflex the stock JAG settings and put notes on it for these jumpers.
dracothered
New Member
Your welcome and Merry Christmas...
Im looking to order all the parts off jameco and cant decide which prototype board to go with? having trouble figuring out if these have the...copper tape??... (whatever links the components) or if i need to get that separate, or just solder wires between the connections. Thanks for the help in advance!
Re: Waterproofing a mag?
Hi, the stuff I use is called Vero Board, (I think. I'll get back to u later today if its not, so if I dont uno it is, ok). It has copper foil strips in single lines on it. I lay them vertically & it all lines up well. I dremel off the unused 1's when I'm done. Cheers
Hi, the stuff I use is called Vero Board, (I think. I'll get back to u later today if its not, so if I dont uno it is, ok). It has copper foil strips in single lines on it. I lay them vertically & it all lines up well. I dremel off the unused 1's when I'm done. Cheers
dracothered
New Member
Re: Waterproofing a mag?
The layout I drew up can be used more or less even with a prototype board. Just connect together the points shown in the layout on the foil side of the board. Just make sure where a lead might short out that it doesn't by removing what isn't needed on the prototype board.
The layout I drew up can be used more or less even with a prototype board. Just connect together the points shown in the layout on the foil side of the board. Just make sure where a lead might short out that it doesn't by removing what isn't needed on the prototype board.
Hello Ivan, Draco,
I am making the cdi now. It is still missing two Polypropylene capacitors (on the way from ebay seller).
I am not sure if I have put the SCR correctly, I don't know the orientation of the k, g, a.
And also, I am not sure if the tantalum capacitors have polarity direction or not, I just put them on.
And the jumper JP2, I am not sure if I should leave it blank or jump it.
I am making the cdi now. It is still missing two Polypropylene capacitors (on the way from ebay seller).
I am not sure if I have put the SCR correctly, I don't know the orientation of the k, g, a.
And also, I am not sure if the tantalum capacitors have polarity direction or not, I just put them on.
And the jumper JP2, I am not sure if I should leave it blank or jump it.
Last edited:
dracothered
New Member
Hello Ivan, Draco,
I am making the cdi now. It is still missing two Polypropylene capacitors (on the way from ebay seller).
I am not sure if I have put the SCR correctly, I don't know the orientation of the k, g, a.
And also, I am not sure if the tantalum capacitors have polarity direction or not, I just put them on.
And the jumper JP2, I am not sure if I should leave it blank or jump it.
I will let Ivan answer this one as I don't remember what part of the timing it changes.