Indian Tadpole

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NEAT TIMES

NEAT TIMES

New Member
May 28, 2008
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PENSACOLA, FL
Hello Steve
Will be calling you again soon. My Auctions are just a month away then soon after that I should be moving 1500 miles closer to you and Walter/ SB.

Ron-Neat Times cvlt1
 
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curtisfox

Well-Known Member
Dec 29, 2008
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minesota
Hi Steve
I knew that is where he was from, thanks. Glad to see you are getting somewhere on the Tadpole. Having part machined takes time, mostly the waite, and going back and forth.
This is going to be one of the best when done............Curt
 
MEASURE TWICE

MEASURE TWICE

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Jul 13, 2010
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fasteddy said:
Curtis Fox was kind enough to send me his drill guide as well as the proper drills bit and bolts so I can drill and tap the end of the crank shaft on the tri car. Thank you Curt. I couldn't find a crank shaft drill guide for sale anywhere.

In one of those rare moments with the tri car that everything works out when I lined up the sprockets to see how much space I had between them it came out exactly right for the bearings to fit and the clutch is right at the end of the crankshaft.

I'm going to put a split collar in the motor side of the clutch on the crank shaft with loctite on the threads to hold the clutch in place. I'll go up to the metal supply tomorrow to pick up the steel to make the part of the jack shaft that the sprockets will mount to. Then it's over to the machinists to have him work his magic.

Steve.
Click to expand...
I found this post from Silver Bear post 505 on pg51 of kindalikeawhizzer

http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=49177&page=51

Say Curt are there any pictures of how you custom made this drill and tap guide.

I'm not sure there is a guide really for the tap, but I understand prep for the hole to be drilled centered in the end of the crankshaft or likewise a jackshaft so that tapping is easier.

I wonder how the drill pilot and drill bits are held in the part shown part of the set?

Thanks!

http://motorbicycling.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=77422&d=1429239741 looks right on center
 
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curtisfox

Well-Known Member
Dec 29, 2008
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minesota
No i don't have any pictures: It's pretty simple, but need a lathe. Or may be possible on drill press if you can drill straight.
Got some DOM tub with 3/4" run a 3/4" drill through it to got clearance for 3/4 shaft. Then got 3/4" cold roll, center drilled it for small starter drill. Then took another 3/4" shaft drilled for tap size drill ( letter I drill i think look it up, used a 5/16" fine thread tap). Then took another 3/4" shaft drilled it so tap would fit and stay straight.
Drilling a crank shaft does not have to be perfect unless you are adding to it, as all the bolt does is hold the clutch on, but this little tool gets it pretty darn close, and can be sleeved with reducer sleeves,to do 5/8" if needed.............Curt
 
MEASURE TWICE

MEASURE TWICE

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Jul 13, 2010
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So the drills and the taps are long enough to go through the guide and are not connected to the guide. Lubrication for drilling and tapping as usual, but also between the guides and the drills and taps maybe use lubrication as well?
I like it.

You did mention about if without the guide fairly close is usually good enough for holding on the end of shaft clutch or pulley.

Were you mentioning extension of shaft with threads somehow and there the need for perfection the drill and tap become imperative? That tool should be used for that.

I looked at the manufactured shaft extenders that also changes shaft diameter, i.e. step down 3/4 to 5/8 and or add more shaft length since I found an engine with short shaft 3/4 inch and 1.3 inch length not enough for a clutch.

The shaft extender to give more length of usable shaft also extended the usable shaft too far from the crankcase wall so much the cover I made for prior parts, it would not fit under. I opted not to buy it then.

Instead now I found using a jackshaft arrangement I'm just spinning a jackshaft and putting the clutch on it. It was just serendipity that since I replace the rear wheel sheave with a larger sheave when it broke, my dual jack shaft was not needing the second jack shaft for gear reduction.

Instead of the clamp on type shaft extenders, I had seen some bushings with a flange that are no longer available at three places they used to be available. They would extend a short shaft just enough I guess they felt it safe. I have 1.3 inch and need like 2.5 inch and felt this is not a safe method, plus I'd have to drill a short length of 3/4 steel rod and weld possibly a washer to one end improvising the out of production special bushing.

Something else is I have a gear I could use to spin the clutch slightly slower than the engine rpm (12 tooth to 13 tooth and get more torque as it engages fully, but that is to be seen. First I'll use a 1:1 ratio (13 tooth to 13 tooth) engine to clutch.
 
silverbear

silverbear

The Boy Who Never Grew Up
Jul 9, 2009
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northeastern Minnesota
Curtis' drill kit is excellent, having used it myself on two 200CC Tecumseh flatheads and on a Jacobsen 2 stroke as well.

Also good to hear that Ron's health is improving and that he is leaving the hothouse of Florida for a healthy place to live... Wisconsin! Awesome, possum!

Have not been much on the computer this summer with nothing to report on bike projects... they sit awaiting next summer when Steve will officially open summer bike camp. Very much looking forward to that. My summer has been more inclined toward Eagles Nest Lake and the surrounding forest. Found an old Grumman sail conversion for a 17' Grumman canoe and have been either trying to drown myself learning how to sail... or at least some of the ways not to sail and tinkering around with making improvements to the rig so that it is less prone to capsizing and easier to handle. Today finishing up flotation stabilizers (outriggers) and hope that leads to dryer sailing with no swimming in the middle of the lake. Someday when I grow up I won't do this kind of stupid stuff, just play with me motorbikes where there is almost no chance of drowning.

Good to hear of your progress on the Indian, Steve. Just got Indian motorcycle decals in the mail from an ebay vendor, not for a bike , but for the canoe! Also polishing up the oxidized aluminum. Fun in the sun...
SB
 
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curtisfox

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Dec 29, 2008
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minesota
This may be close enough to add a extension, using the guide and then making a extension that would screw into the shaft end. Extra long bolt or a threaded extension, made on a lathe.

My guide has threaded hole on the side for locking it to the shaft and hold the insert guides in place. The inserts are about 1 1/2" long, long enough to get a good star on drilling and taping. Then finish by hand, as will stay straight.......Curt
 
Ludwig II

Ludwig II

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Jul 17, 2012
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I, too, know about learning. 1985 raft race. I'm at the end without all the bits. The vessel was called The Panoe. There's a silly and Low Joke involved.
 

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fasteddy

Well-Known Member
Feb 13, 2009
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British Columbia Canada
Finally got to Home Depot to get the bits I needed to finish the parts for the jack shaft and make a form for the tank. I'll take photos over the next few days of the jack shaft parts and of how I made the gas tank form and then the gas tank yesterday.

I'll post the size for the gas tank as well and how I made the pattern. Maybe we'll see someone else make a camel back gas tank Indian motorbike.

Steve.
 
indian22

indian22

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Dec 31, 2014
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Steve I think I'm maybe the someone, bike in the photo is my candidate for change from a "kegger" to a camel back. Think it would be a good change. Rick C.
 

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fasteddy

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Feb 13, 2009
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Hi Rick,

Trying to work out the best way to lay out the measurements so someone can easily set up a pattern without a lot of hassles. Hope I have it figured out. Down to the garage in a minute to see if the latest idea works.

Steve.
 
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