Indian Tadpole

fasteddy said:
This is the plate I made for the pedal chain idler. The steel rod is just to take the place of the chain stay. Welded two small pieces of bar to the plate that will sit on top of the chain stay to prevent movement.

Small U bolts will hold the idler to the chain stay. If one link was removed the chain was too tight so I used two idler pulleys to take up the slack. That way slack is available to adjust the back wheel.

I reversed the bolts that the pulleys ride on for clearance of the wheel. The excess will be cut off.

Steve.



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Nice work Steve, I would recommend elongating one idler hole to a slot for future adjustment. Need not be more than 3mm.
Tom
 
Thank's Rick.

My brother the Sadist come by the garage every so often and tells me the orders are piling up and we need more production. His last run by I suggested that stopping it would further his time on the planet because the ground isn't that hard to dig.

Steve.
 
Hello Dan,
Thank you. I keep looking over my shoulder and asking you what I should do next. The advise is spot on of course and with a little creative staring I've be able to do it.

Steve.
 
Hi Tom,
Thank you. I had to cut the bolt heads off as they were tickling the spoke ever so gently. I used a short length of 3/4"x1/8" flat bar with two holes drilled in it for the bolts to fit though and welded them in place to the flat bar. I fed it though the back of the plate and tightened down the bolts on the pulleys to hold it in place. I'll get photos tomorrow.

I can cut the flat bar in half and weld in an adjuster so the pulleys can be spread apart the 3mm. I'll look at it tomorrow and see what I can come up with.

Glad you like the tanks. These I'm happy with.

Steve.
 
fasteddy said:
Tanks are starting to take shape. I'll start the bottoms and the ends tomorrow.

I put the top on first. The top is held on the form with plumbers strapping and tightened down with a length of 1/4" all thread and two washers and nuts. The tank form is 3" wide and made from medium density fibreboard. The metal on top is 3-1/2" wide. I square up the top so the metal even on both sides

Then I clamp the sides onto the form and line them up with the top. The top it formed over both sides in three of four places to hold it in place. I use a body hammer to finish forming the top to the sides. In the photo's I made the top 3-3/4" wide and it was harder to form with the extra 1/4" of width. I started the bends with a piece of flat bar used on end.

While its all clamped together the top and sides are soldered together with silver solder.

I used brass reducers, 1"OD and 3/4"I.D. The caps are for closing off garden hoses that are left without nozzles. Home Depot plumbing aisle. I cut 3 threads of the top and smoothed them off on the belt sander until they were even and there were no saw cuts. One inch hole saw to form the openings and soldered two tabs on the bushing so it won't come loose. I'll get a photo tomorrow.

Using 24 gauge instead of 26 gauge plate is making for a better tank.

This is how they look so far.

Steve.
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Wowsers! You've started a factory!!!
 
Tom,
This is what I came up with for the pedal chain tensioner roller to ride on. I can't add anything to make it expand to take up the slack since it would interfere with the spokes. If need be I'll make one with the rollers farther apart and drill the proper holes to fit it.

Steve.
 

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I rigged up a couple of pieces of steel to bend the sides of the tank bottom and the end of the tanks. Not a moment of beauty but it worked. I bent it up 1/2 inch all around. End and sides.

The blue masking tape is to mark out the line where it is to be bent. I used a pencil and it is hard to see. I used a body hammer to knock it into shape. I then used the length of steel plate to hammer it flat where I bent it up.


Steve.
 

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The end sections I was able to bend by hand without hammering them into shape. I tapped the metal against the steel to make the edges more crisply defined and not so rounded so they were the proper distance apart.

I set the gas line outlet in place to see how it looked. The end and bottom pieces all together.

Steve.
 

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The bottom pieces were notched every inch with a notch 1/8" wide. The last 2 notches at the tail section are 1/2" apart to accommodate the down turn at the back of the tank.

The bottom is soldered in and the end section is clamped in place to help align everything as it's being soldered. The bottom is inset 7/8' from the bottom lip of the tank. Held in place by vise grips that are moved as it's soldered.

Steve.
 

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Hi Tom,

Thank you. I'm going to be happy to see them finished.

We've decided not to bother this year. Sue and Silverbear are planning on coming out to Vancouver in October with another couple who are friends of ours. With the new to them, house and having it redone to what they want the summer will be gone and there won't be a lot of time to mess around with bikes. They are having a hard time finding time to even get a canoe in the water for an afternoon off.

I plan to be out of here and headed East the first of next June for a couple of months. By then everything will have been done that they want to have done and I'll be finished building bikes, I hope. I don't believe me either but it felt good to write that.

Steve.
 
Well Steve, looks like bike camp got moved to Vancouver.
That is fine, Wish I were there.
But Sept. 3 is Brother in law Mark Johnson's 74th birthday. He resides in the Powder Horn neighborhood of Minneapolis, MN.
That means we will attend the in my opinion best Mid-West State fair on Saturday. The Minnesota State Fair

If Mona and I get to Mark's Friday, this is on my to do list.
https://seasalteatery.wordpress.com/

Took the fifteen year old mostly Black Lab to Vet. today after work. She was only moderately cooperative. "Alpha."

Back home, and into the shop. Barley pop in hand.
Last year on one of my maiden voyages my rear brake locked up the wheel.
When I got home, gave it a quick look. Brake arm was twisted, but every thing was functioning fine. Fine it was not. that twist unlocked the brake arm side nut.
Over time the bearing cones got enough play for the wheel to wobble. That is most likely why the sprockets began to wear excessively.
My mistakes may create a manual .
Going to miss meeting the Indian Tri Car master.
Tom
 
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