hybrid chinese motors and performance tuning

i was so worried that i would get a blowout and get run over by my own brother on camera i didn't notice my ass in the breeze
 
Riding Rich said:
I recognize that rod.
It is out of a GT-5 66cc Angle Fire.
I believe the center to center distance is 88.9 mm.

I have one question if you can please help.

How much pressure is required to push the crankpin out.
Or if you have the crankpin diameter and the bore diameter in the crank i can calculate it.
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you didn't ask me what ton press i used, you asked me how much pressure.

Tula doesn't like it when people get offended easily.

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That Frankenstein motor does not need a shift kit. It freaking hauls!! My Morini could not even keep up with it. I'd look for Foureasy to take the next Death Race.
 
thanks fair, but if i don't stop wrecking this bike, i'll be sitting in the bleachers.


john,
you need a cylinder kit for a puch and some basic machine shop skills. a big carb and an expansion chamber would also help. this motor is basically a performance moped top end on a chinese bottom end.
 
foureasy said:
thanks fair, but if i don't stop wrecking this bike, i'll be sitting in the bleachers.

QUOTE]

you could always build a suped up wheelchair...

(i'm just kidding, 'cause i ride the same way, without the wrecks [yet.] i'm waiting to blow a tire in traffic at 45...)
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Riding Rich said:
Arianna SAYS

We Spend alot of time and money doing research for the benifit of the members here.
We go above and beyond to help everyone.
It would be nice to see the same in return.

I didn't think it would be so hard to say.........
I used a 20 ton Press.

But thanks alot for the help.
.trk
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just a small press will do and look at you rich with all those parts you go bro have a good one !brnot
 
last night i went to assemble the crank again and noticed the big end of the rod is trashed and the stock bearing had 6 cracks in one side of the cage. so i pressed apart a spare crank that had the same long rod, same problem only not as pronounced, this rod was only uned in a stock motor for a little while. these latest developments mean that i will never use that za rod again. i have one other 3.8mm shorter rod that i didn't want to use because of it's shortness, but it does have one redeeming feature, the big bearing is uncaged rollers with thrust washers. so i assembled the crank with the shorter rod and trued it to .003" . then i filled the area where i removed material in the balance pads with silicone, (to bump up my primary compression) and bolted them on the flywheels. since i used the shorter rod i will have to remove 3.8mm from my 7mm cylinder spacer, (which will also bump primary compression).


john,
i would machine the head if i needed to change compression, since the cylinders cost so much. the hi comp head from treatland works pretty good


baird,
i had a blowout at about 40 once and it was pretty scary. i don't mind the fall as much as getting run over.
 
Nice Video just linked that to buddy that just wants to keep getting it faster. Very cool!! Thanks for sharing..Hope you have better luck with the rod bearings. Sure looks like you had it dialed in. In that video Definitely seems to match up with those dino test.
 
So to wrap up my questions, basically you can use the stock crank and rod and just bolt on to the puch cylinder&piston, get a puch head off ebay and play the compression game. Then you will have somethin' that runs?
 
rich
both bearings have the same id but the pk has a bigger od.

john
you have to press a bronze bushing in the small end then ream to 12mm.
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the shorter rod necessitated a smaller base plate, i didn't want to spend the time so i uses 2 1.5mm base gaskets instead of shaving down the 7mm spacer i had.

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the head is machind to fill in this area at tdc and give the proper squish
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