Fork shortening should be a straightforward op Rick. Always knew I'd have to go there using these forks on this build. That time has come.
Fist up, I'm sticking with the bike's 1" nose up attitude as it presently sits. With the engine temporarily mounted and me sat aboard earlier today, the girder fork spring compressed about 3/4", so by my reckoning, that gets us near enough sitting level. Take a tank-full of gas into account and I reckon it'll be cock-on.
Forks now dismantled and marked for drilling the new axle hole. Pics show the pair of (thankfully dead straight and unmolested) fork legs securely bolted together ready for drilling. I've arrowed where the new axle holes will be located - a whole 2-3/4" higher up the fork legs. New wheel has a 12mm axle - so I'll be making axle HOLES, not SLOTS. Once cut, the lower fork ends will be shaped as per the originals, not just a straight cut.
The shiny area where I've ground away the black powder coating back to bare metal is where I had to grind off a welded-on domed rivet head which was welded to a tubular steel stub inside the RIGHT fork leg. This stub would have slotted into the drum brake plate on whatever bike these forks were originally paired with. However, the Honda CG 18" drum-braked wheel on this build has the brake plate/lever and,
oh yes!, integrated speedo drive located on the opposite side so I'll need to weld a stub to the inside of the LEFT fork leg.
I've already removed the cast-on mudguard bracket from the lower fork crossmember (shown in the last pic of post 727 above) which will leave a comfortable one inch clearance between tyre and crossmember when using the new axle location..