Rick,
Those tank ends will work nicely for a tank on one of your upcoming projects. Presumably steel?
I lean towards aluminium on my 'home brewed' tanks. Mostly on account of it being convenient to use the 'low temp' brazing solders for aluminium such as the Alu-Build300 rods I used on this particular tank. For anyone interested, this time round I treated myself to a new torch and upgraded to MAPP gas instead of propane, which turned out to be really quick and simple when used in conjuction with these flux-less solder rods with a melting temp of 300 degrees. Joints are guaranteed to be at least as strong as the parent metal. Alu-Build300 solder flows like water once the metal being joined is up to temp. The secret is to clean the joint metal using wet 'n dry. No need to vigorously clean the joint first using a stainless wire brush as is required on other brands of Alumnium solder rods I've used. Then heat things up slowly and evenly to the required temp. Another benefit of Alu-Build300 is it files/sands really easily, making neat joints a cinch. Other 'low temp' ali solder rods I've used previously are hard as steel to clean up once joints have cooled.
As is my normal practice, once the tank is completed, I'll treat the inside with a coating of POR15 tank sealer.
That brake torque arm on my latest build is 270mm long c-to-c, which is the same length as the factory pressed steel arm used on the Skyteam Ace bike I'm sourcing a lot of donor parts from for this build. Basically Honda CG125 spec parts.
I've ordered up a full set of Ace handlebar controls/switchgear from the UK importer which will hopefully get me closer to being able to 'plug 'n play' with the wiring loom that came with my donor Skyteam Ace motor. Going for a road legal headlights/indicators set-up this time round.