Friction Drives

Revelstone,
I like your set up....the engine is centered and you used the drive chain instead of the belt. (my set up is direct to the drive shaft so the belt is also the clutch) Is that hub used as a freewheel hub or just a paired gear set? Can your set up freewheel?
the jackshaft and the rear wheel both are freewheels. might have to put it all back together one day and see if i can correct the jumping chain syndrome.
still have every thing just rethinking the whole wheel setup. i think when i welded the sprocket on the rear wheel left side i may have got it a little off kilter. that's probably why it jumped.
 
ASHUR, WELCOME, I THINK YOU WILL LIKE IT HERE, FINE BUNCH OF PEOPLE!(^) IF YOU PLAN ON DOING BUILDS, OR WHATEVER- THIS IS THE PLACE!! I FEEL FORTUNATE TO HAVE FOUND THIS FORUM. RON:ride2:
 
REVELSTONE YOU DO HAVE A CENTRIFICAL CLUTCH TO GO WITH YOUR FREE WHEELS, WITH FRONT AND REAR DERAILER AND CHAIN SLACK, I THINK YOU COULD MAKE IT A SHIFTER. WILL LET YOU WORK IT ALL OUT FIRST. :) YOU HAVE THE HARDEST PART DONE. RON:bike2:
 
centrifical clutch came with the engine. don't really want that part to shift. if it does, in utah, it's a motorcycle, and then i need a license. just going down the road with no problem would be wonderful. course, right now i'm building a bent. progress, when and if, can be seen at revelstone
 
Just to get back on the subject of friction drives,

Has anyone thought of using a truck bed liner material? Its pretty durable.
 
No but it might work.

The really rasp like axle peg I have on the 35cc seems to be the best, though I have no idea how the tire is going to hold up. What I need is a way to recreate that surface onto a galvanized pipe nipple. Im going to see what the jb weld does once the rain stops and the streets dry out here. If the jb holds up I'm thinking some kind of texture like a fiberglass screen wire, or a lady's cross stitch type plastic material embedded in the jb. If it doesn't hold up then the search continues.

Ceramic like the kind on the space shuttle might work but I have no idea how to coat a piece of metal with something like that textured. Actually that speed of revolutions will probably wear away anything except the steel or alum surface.
 
Ranger, Good Thinking ! Bed Liner Is Tough Stuff. I Think They Have Diy Kits. I Just Bought A 2" Dia Flat Belt Drive Pulley For My "zipcycle" Jackshaft. It Has An Aluminum Hub 1/2" Keyed Bore With Fiber Surface. It Looks Like Leather Washers To Me. I Wonder If The Auto Parts Store Have Or Could Get Small Bottles. Maybe I Can Find Some Today, Before I Put This Together. Thanks For Sharing. Ron
 
Ranger, Good Thinking ! Bed Liner Is Tough Stuff. I Think They Have Diy Kits. I Just Bought A 2" Dia Flat Belt Drive Pulley For My "zipcycle" Jackshaft. It Has An Aluminum Hub 1/2" Keyed Bore With Fiber Surface. It Looks Like Leather Washers To Me. I Wonder If The Auto Parts Store Have Or Could Get Small Bottles. Maybe I Can Find Some Today, Before I Put This Together. Thanks For Sharing. Ron

I thought of the stuff because my dad applied some to some old running boards for a 1940 chevy. It worked well, its very thick. But I would not use the brush that comes with it, it raises the liner and makes it have sharp points. Just a standard roller would probably work.

Another idea is to drill holes in the item that your going to put the liner on, this way it will ooze in the holes and never come out.

If you try it and it works please share. I'm just going to strip a V belt and use the thin strips of belt to cover my 3/4" pipe nipple.
 
Don't waste your time with an old tire. I tried those and it was zero effective. gone in just a few minutes.

On the belt. You know you could drill a hole in each end of the nipple where it does not touch the tire and put a screw in it through the belt. then wrap the belt like we used to wrap tape on a baseball bat. Secure the other end with a screw as well. Most of my problem has been with the joints. By doing the wrap there wouldn't be any exposed joints.
 
One thing that I've tried with some success is the roller off of an old printer with a coupling to the motor shaft. No clutch though.

The printer rollers are on almost every printer and there are many differant density rubber rollers. They also come in diamiters from about .5 inch to one that I have that is almost 2 inches. They all have a hardened steel axil that can be cut and shaped. These printers are easy to find on Gregslist or anywhere.

The best one is one I've made that is about 1" with a 1/2 inch shaft and a hard rubber covering. The rubber is so hard that I had to rough it up a little. Seems to work for a long time because the roller rubber is harder than the tire rubber. I cut the roller the full with (with axil) and then trim off the rubber with a sharp knife and a sanding wheel.

Al
 
Ashur That 2" With 1/2" Shaft Sounds Great. How Wide Is The Rubber? Do You Remember What Model That Came Out Of ?? Thanks Ron
 
Ashur That 2" With 1/2" Shaft Sounds Great. How Wide Is The Rubber? Do You Remember What Model That Came Out Of ?? Thanks Ron
I can't remember. I think that the roller came off of an old Tektronix Color printer that someone gave me. I strip them down and keep usible parts in a large plastic boox. After a while I don't know where they came from but I wind up using this stuff for projects I'm building. The larger rollers are not that rare though, I've seen them on a number of printers and copy machines. These things are thrown away as junk now. They are loaded with great usible parts. The rubber was about 12" wide on a shaft of about <15". I use a moto-tools with a cutoff wheel to trim to the size I need. I can usually get more than 2 wheels out of a roller. There seems to be a number of types of rubber that is used from very soft sticky/spongy rubber to rubber that is very hard an dense. They all seem to be molded to hard steel shafts.
 
I would be worried if the rubber started flying off, due to all that power LOL.
The rubber could fly off though.

I'm going to stick to the pipe, just put stuff on it and figure out what works the best.
 
If you are worried about the printer/copier rubber flying off.... I've never seen it. Remember the copy mach. and even most printers work at high temp and a good bit of speed.

When I first started to try to use these rollers I put them in my lathe and had them turning at above 2000 rpm to cut off the rubber and trim the axil. The (the high density rubber) got hot but didn't come apart. It stuck to the metal like it was the same peice. This rubber has about the same density as wood but it is fused to the metal shaft like a solid peice.
 
i used jb weld mixed with sand on a smooth BMX bike peg. it's still on there and shows very minimal wear on the jb weld. not much on the bike rubber either. i'll post a picture later.
 
i used jb weld mixed with sand on a smooth BMX bike peg. it's still on there and shows very minimal wear on the jb weld. not much on the bike rubber either. i'll post a picture later.

I have been hoping someone who had one of those would come on and tell me the results after a few weeks use. I just made up a wheel. I have left it to cure for two days now. I am going to ride it tomorrow since the weather will be better.

I did take a file to the high spots where the jb clumped up. I'm curious to see how it wears.
 
I have been hoping someone who had one of those would come on and tell me the results after a few weeks use. I just made up a wheel. I have left it to cure for two days now. I am going to ride it tomorrow since the weather will be better.

I did take a file to the high spots where the jb clumped up. I'm curious to see how it wears.

when i put mine on i let it dry 24 hours. i tried to put it on smooth as i could but it was a little rough from the concentration of the sand. don't know how you did yours. here's a picture of mine with about 60 miles on the bike.
 

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Yours looks a lot differnt for sure. Mine is more uneven and has a more glossy finish. I didn't have really good sand though. I'll have to just see how it does. I am looking forward to giving it a trail tomorrow.
 
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