Friction Drives
- Thread starter NEAT TIMES
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NEAT TIMES
New Member
Hi Ryobi, Got Any Pictures? It Would Be Cool To See Your Bike Build. Ron
Roadkill
New Member
Yeah we want pictures.. Blood is easy to get.. Pictures.. yum..
Hey thanks.. I bought mine just so I can't mess up when I build my franken bikes. I want to make a couple unusual designs this spring. I watched and downloaded a youtube of some guy with a harbor freight mini milling machine make his own. Very useful stuff that was. I use KM capture while playing to export screen shots and print them out after inverting them from B&W to W&B.. Saves on ink. Thanks ... I will post pics someday.. Many.. Some will be more trailer oriented however that might just start a motorized trailer movement..
Hey thanks.. I bought mine just so I can't mess up when I build my franken bikes. I want to make a couple unusual designs this spring. I watched and downloaded a youtube of some guy with a harbor freight mini milling machine make his own. Very useful stuff that was. I use KM capture while playing to export screen shots and print them out after inverting them from B&W to W&B.. Saves on ink. Thanks ... I will post pics someday.. Many.. Some will be more trailer oriented however that might just start a motorized trailer movement..
a_dam
New Member
This might sound off-topic (or stupid). While reading a bit through this long thread I see "clockwise" and "counterclockwise" used to describe motor rotation. Just to be consistent, which way is the end of the motor shaft facing; toward you or away from you? When using a weed-wacker, the shaft is pointing away, so if the spool/line is spinning clockwise, is it a "clockwise" engine?
a-dam, here's an easy way to determine which way your engine rotates.
Grab your engine's starter rope and pull it a couple inches. If the starting mechanism turns clockwise, the end of the motor shaft spins the other way.
FWIW, my Robin, Mitsubishi and pocketbike engines all spin counterclockwise.
Grab your engine's starter rope and pull it a couple inches. If the starting mechanism turns clockwise, the end of the motor shaft spins the other way.
FWIW, my Robin, Mitsubishi and pocketbike engines all spin counterclockwise.
NEAT TIMES
New Member
A-dam, Thats A Very Good Question, And A Confusing Topic For Many. The Power Output Shaft Of Most All Engines Runs Counter Clockwise. Thats When You Look At It From The Output Side. The Small Crankshaft Gear On The China Girl Motor Runs Counter Clockwise, When you look at the gear side of engine. Then It Turns The Clutch Drum Gear Clockwise. That Makes The Chain Sprocket Turn Clockwise Also, but when you look at the sprocked from the sprocket side (left side of engine) its turning counter clockwise. Belt Drives Run In The Same Direction, Gear Drive Reverses Direction With 2 Gears, But 3 Gears Would Change It Back. Hope this helps. With All The Spring Winds Blowing, We Should Build A Sail Bike!! Ron
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Roadkill
New Member
I like the sail bike idea.. There would be no handle bars and one would have to aim the sail into the wind. I was going to sail skate this year. My friend said he used to do at least 20 holding a sail on skates on a lake when he was a kid. I imagine a sail bike would be just as fun in a vacant whatever-mart parking lot in 5 years.
Roadkill
New Member
Time fly's when you're having fun!
NEAT TIMES
New Member
If You Look At A Clock And It Is Turning Counter Clockwise, Would YOU Be Losing Time???
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NEAT TIMES
New Member
Just Finished Another Friction Drive. Using A Pocket Motor With Big Bore Kit (52cc, Compression ??) Cruises Over 30 Mph. Needs Larger Roller. Have Gas Tank Sitting High As I Have Larger Tank To Install. The Dual Suspensions Ride So Nice. IN THE UPPER LEFT CORNER OF 4TH PIC YOU CAN SEE PART OF THE 4 WHEEL BICYCLE, I WANT TO PUT A CHAIN DRIVE ENGINE WITH THE CVT BELT TRANSMISSION ON IT SOON. Ron
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NEAT TIMES
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Re: friction drive
A-dam, Took A While To Find Your Thread And Build. I Want To Post Pics Here. Will Go Out Side Now And Take Some Pics Of The Zipcycle. Did You Get A Chance To See Their Website? I Promised Another Member I Would Post Zip Pics Last Fall And Forgot. I Will Edit Pics In Here Shortley.i Had To Replace The Whole Jackshaft, Bearings, 2" Leather Drive Roller ( 2" Was The Largest I Could Find For 1/2" Shaft) And The 3" White Nylon Cog Pulley. Those Parts Came To $105.. I Need To Get It Going. I Tried Starting It With Electric Drill, About Wore It Out Turning It The Wrong Direction. Lol And Lol.. The Happy Time Looking Gas Tank Is Plastic, Its A Glove Box. The Gas Cap Is The Cover Nut. Ron Ok, got 2 pics and dead camera bat. its on charger so will post more in a few minutes. I HAVE THE COG OFF THE MOTOR FROM TRYING TO START IT WITH DRILL. A cogged belt runs from motor to white pulley. It has nice fiber glass motor covers. will charge camera overnite and take more pics in daylite. ron
A-dam, Took A While To Find Your Thread And Build. I Want To Post Pics Here. Will Go Out Side Now And Take Some Pics Of The Zipcycle. Did You Get A Chance To See Their Website? I Promised Another Member I Would Post Zip Pics Last Fall And Forgot. I Will Edit Pics In Here Shortley.i Had To Replace The Whole Jackshaft, Bearings, 2" Leather Drive Roller ( 2" Was The Largest I Could Find For 1/2" Shaft) And The 3" White Nylon Cog Pulley. Those Parts Came To $105.. I Need To Get It Going. I Tried Starting It With Electric Drill, About Wore It Out Turning It The Wrong Direction. Lol And Lol.. The Happy Time Looking Gas Tank Is Plastic, Its A Glove Box. The Gas Cap Is The Cover Nut. Ron Ok, got 2 pics and dead camera bat. its on charger so will post more in a few minutes. I HAVE THE COG OFF THE MOTOR FROM TRYING TO START IT WITH DRILL. A cogged belt runs from motor to white pulley. It has nice fiber glass motor covers. will charge camera overnite and take more pics in daylite. ron
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NEAT TIMES
New Member
Re: friction drive
Morning Adam, You Clicked On The Second Choice Under "zipcycle", Their Site Is Your First Choice, I Just Now Checked It Out Again. When You Came Up With My Avatar=must Be When I Was Looking For Parts Last Summer. I Guess The Internet Never Forgets. I Did Not Build It. It Is A Complete Setup From The Factory, Bike And All. I Bought It Used Last Summer For $250., It Listed New For $1100. Then Spent $105. On The Jackshaft Parts. The Drive Roller (2" Dia, I/2" Bore) Came From "mcmaster-carr". I Have Them On My Favorites List. Shipping Is Usually Less Than $5. The White Pulley Came From Them, Etc. They Have A Lot Of Stuff. Also "vxb Ball Bearings" For The Shaft Bearings, Good Prices. It Had A Rubber Like Drive Roller, Approx 2 1/2" Dia. It Was Wore Out To Almost A Square. The Brake Like Lever Is For Pushing Down With Your Hand For Extra Starting Power (friction). The Leather Roller Is A Flat Belt Pulley. Your Build Looks Very Good, Would Like To See Better Closeups. When You Try Starting A Motor With A Electric Drill From The Flywheel Side You Have To Turn It Counter Clock Wise (to The Left).. Remember, Your Rear Wheel Motor Is Running Backwards To Turn The Tire Foreward. When You Try Running The Motor Counter Clock Wise With The Drill The Nuts Keep Screwing Off. The Jerking From The Compression Is Like A Air Gun (impact Wrench) Banging Them Loose. A-dam, Thanks To Your Interest, I Just Figured Out How To Make A Tool For Starting The Wacker Motor On The Zipcycle. The Two Bolt Bosses On The Flywheel, One On Each Side Center. I Will Take A Piece Of Flat Stock, Drill A Hole In The Center To Fit Over The Crankshaft Threads, Then A Hole On Each End, To Bolt It To Flywheel. I Have A Couple Options For The Center "thing A Ma Jig". Pedal Starting Is Ok For A Good Running Engine. Not So For A Troublesome One. Imho.If you like, i will take more and beter pics. Ron
Morning Adam, You Clicked On The Second Choice Under "zipcycle", Their Site Is Your First Choice, I Just Now Checked It Out Again. When You Came Up With My Avatar=must Be When I Was Looking For Parts Last Summer. I Guess The Internet Never Forgets. I Did Not Build It. It Is A Complete Setup From The Factory, Bike And All. I Bought It Used Last Summer For $250., It Listed New For $1100. Then Spent $105. On The Jackshaft Parts. The Drive Roller (2" Dia, I/2" Bore) Came From "mcmaster-carr". I Have Them On My Favorites List. Shipping Is Usually Less Than $5. The White Pulley Came From Them, Etc. They Have A Lot Of Stuff. Also "vxb Ball Bearings" For The Shaft Bearings, Good Prices. It Had A Rubber Like Drive Roller, Approx 2 1/2" Dia. It Was Wore Out To Almost A Square. The Brake Like Lever Is For Pushing Down With Your Hand For Extra Starting Power (friction). The Leather Roller Is A Flat Belt Pulley. Your Build Looks Very Good, Would Like To See Better Closeups. When You Try Starting A Motor With A Electric Drill From The Flywheel Side You Have To Turn It Counter Clock Wise (to The Left).. Remember, Your Rear Wheel Motor Is Running Backwards To Turn The Tire Foreward. When You Try Running The Motor Counter Clock Wise With The Drill The Nuts Keep Screwing Off. The Jerking From The Compression Is Like A Air Gun (impact Wrench) Banging Them Loose. A-dam, Thanks To Your Interest, I Just Figured Out How To Make A Tool For Starting The Wacker Motor On The Zipcycle. The Two Bolt Bosses On The Flywheel, One On Each Side Center. I Will Take A Piece Of Flat Stock, Drill A Hole In The Center To Fit Over The Crankshaft Threads, Then A Hole On Each End, To Bolt It To Flywheel. I Have A Couple Options For The Center "thing A Ma Jig". Pedal Starting Is Ok For A Good Running Engine. Not So For A Troublesome One. Imho.If you like, i will take more and beter pics. Ron
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trackfodder
Member
I never really paid any attention to friction bikes since my Travis ate my front wheel years ago. Recently, I heard someone say, Dee Jsaan, I think, about using vertical shafts against the sidewall and a cam belt tensioner pulley off a car engine to back up the other side. My mind quickly went to all the Lawnboys that have gone through my life and the lightness and dependability of the powerful little suckers.. My next thought was pivoting the unit so the shaft and backup wheel could disengage for peddling. Now I am wondering if my 1" shafthole centrifugal clutch wouldn't simplify starting and eliminate the need to swing away. It is roughly 4" or less in diam. and assuming a wheel at ~24" at the sidewall, we are looking at maybe 6:1 ,which wouldn't be far off good. Maybe the clutch can could be upholstered with something better. KW
trackfodder
Member
"Wake me when Straussberg passes this train" A. EinsteinIf You Look At A Clock And It Is Turning Counter Clockwise, Would YOU Be Losing Time???
NEAT TIMES
New Member
Track, I Think You Are Making The Same Mistake Others And I Made. Tire Dia Makes No Difference. The Roller Or Your Clutch Circumference Measurement Determines Wheel Travel Distance. I Would Not Have Realized It, If Not For Someone On Here Posting The Facts. I Still Don`t Know How To Figure Friction Drive Ratio. Ron
NEAT TIMES
New Member
With Double The Torque You Should Be Able To Double The Roller Size? I Think Side Drive Wheels Were Commonly Used In The Past. Ron