So.......I broke one of the flaps on the carburetor. I was trying to fit it to an elbow joint I made so that I can fit it under my frame. What do I do now?
@#$@#.....crap
- Thread starter cartisdm
- Start date
Do you still have the other piece? If its in one piece you could use J.B. cold weld to reattach it. Put a hose clamp on until it dries.
**** yes... I have broken transmissions housings before ... JB weld worked great... make sure to clean it well.... you can even drill and tap JB weld ... I have done that to.
wheph, you guys are awesome. I just got back from Lowes and it looks like everything will be ok. I'm going to let it set overnight and call it quits for working on the motor tonight....
I broke a flap off my carb as well. I tried the JB weld but found that there was just too much vibration on the carb so it just splintered and came apart. What I did was to drill a hole through one of the other flaps and into the elbow joint I was using and tap it. Then screwed in a small screw to hold it in place. I sealed the new joint with JB weld to prevent air leaks. This fix made it as solid as a rock.
Unfortunately I have to ghetto-rig my elbow joint, hence why I was bending it in the first place. I couldn't find a way to get a simple 90 degree elbow from the engine to the carburetor. Here's some pics:
Edit: Sorry I forgot to rotate them around, just turn your head
Edit 2: Fixed them
Edit: Sorry I forgot to rotate them around, just turn your head
Edit 2: Fixed them
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Been there and had to do that. Here's pics of the 90 degree elbow setup I eventually came up with that was rock solid when it came to vibration. Notice the O-ring in the carb. That was almost a must have thing for air leaks.
Oh yeah, that brass nipple is for the bottle boost expansion chamber.
Oh yeah, that brass nipple is for the bottle boost expansion chamber.
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Unfortunately I have to ghetto-rig my elbow joint, hence why I was bending it in the first place. I couldn't find a way to get a simple 90 degree elbow from the engine to the carburetor. Here's some pics:
Edit: Sorry I forgot to rotate them around, just turn your head
Edit 2: Fixed them
so how has it been trying to get that thing on a bmx?
a sideways motor might not be the best thing. i would use alot of oil.
but thats soooo cool, keep us updated.
Good try distance on a intake will always affect how she acts. I just lately staired at some BMX bars seems I can follow the curve on the steel at one of the intersections, its wider than the stock intake tube and has my bend that I need, just need a peice of steel plate in one place welded on Hopes this helps party on dude!!!!
It's not a BMX frame, just a small mountain bike frame (17''). Hopefully I don't have the motor mounted too sideways, I don't think think it's much more than it would be anywhere else, I'll get some better pics.
As for the intake, since I had to add an elbow and thus lengthened the tube will I run into any problems? What adjustments do I need to make?
As for the intake, since I had to add an elbow and thus lengthened the tube will I run into any problems? What adjustments do I need to make?
I don't think you'll have to make any adjustments, but check your plug once it's running to see where it's at air/fuel wise.
The angle of these engines doesn't matter one bit, the carb float bowl does.
The angle of these engines doesn't matter one bit, the carb float bowl does.
Hi, I broke a carb the same way. If it broke when you were tightening the clap the elbow is too small. Plumbing copper pipe is the wrong size. Refrigeration tubing also made of copper is a perfect fit and you can solder it. The actual od of the tubing that fits tight in the carb is 3/4" I'm not sure but I think they called it 5/8 refrigeration tubing. Lowe's doesn't have the refrigeration tubing only plumbing. Go to a place that installs or repairs residential ac or heating units and just tell them you need a piece of tubing 3/4" actual size. They gave me a scrap piece. I have a picture of mine on this site under Pictures. It is called "Tight fit" by i-paint.
You might be able to solder the broken part back on using the aluminum solder but practice on beer or pop cans first using a propane torch the solder is around $10.00 so you might be better off buying a new carb.
I also make off set intakes, I make the mounting flange and the intake tube I first machine the part that fits the carb for a solid fit then gas weld them. If you look at some of my bike pictures you can see the intake manifolds I also make one for a guy in Canada and I think he was very happy with it.
I haven't tried but I think if a guy waned to you could machine a mounting flange on the crancase housing and use reed valves then blank off the stock intake manifold I think with a little work it should work. two stroke aren't picky on where the carb is.
As for you cussing the carb you really should cuss your self for breaking the carb you did something wrong and the carb complained.
Norman
I also make off set intakes, I make the mounting flange and the intake tube I first machine the part that fits the carb for a solid fit then gas weld them. If you look at some of my bike pictures you can see the intake manifolds I also make one for a guy in Canada and I think he was very happy with it.
I haven't tried but I think if a guy waned to you could machine a mounting flange on the crancase housing and use reed valves then blank off the stock intake manifold I think with a little work it should work. two stroke aren't picky on where the carb is.
As for you cussing the carb you really should cuss your self for breaking the carb you did something wrong and the carb complained.
Norman
