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Discussion in 'Motorized Bicycle General Discussion' started by cartisdm, Oct 15, 2008.
What would I be looking for when you say air/fuel.
air/fuel ratio can be somewhat measured by the way your spark plug looks after a little bit of use. It helps in tuning your motor and keeping it from running lean will keep it from over heating and melting down. your plug should be anywhere from brown to an ashey grey type color. you may want to search the net for pictures of how a good running engines plug will look, as its hard to describe.
the float bowl is the bowl shaped thing at the bottom of your carb, just make sure you keep your carb as level as possible, no need to break out real level you can eyeball it and be just fine, whatever you do, don't mount it like your engine.
Here is a link on how to read spark plugs
i have an extra carb brand new never used let me know if you want it im using a walbro throw me a couple bucks +shipping and its yours make me an offer !!!
I see that you are working away at the various problems you have encountered. Bravo! You have to be a little stubborn to reap the rewards sometimes. A certain amount of diligence not only helps get the job done but it sometimes saves your skin too.
I know you are eager to get riding but taking the time to do the job right may save you from a bad or dangerous experience later.
You are doing a good job of solving the problems this installation has presented you. Being a 2 stroke it will indeed run in the orientation you have selected as long as the carburetor is relatively level which you have solved.
The next hurdle that you will have to overcome will be mounting the engine well enough that it will withstand the vibration a single cylinder engine is known to create.
It is possible that hadn't finished tackling this problem when you took the pictures so please correct me if I am wrong. However if you were going to go with the rear mount as you have it in the pictures I'm afraid you will find yourself disappointed or possibly even hurt when it fails. It needs more support than that.
If I were presented with this particular challenge I would seriously consider finding a different bike for my motor. Bikes are so inexpensive especially if you have a local bike Co-op that it is often cheaper and more satisfying to find the right parts for the job. If you are really on a tight budget you can often reuse many parts on your current bike. You really only need a slightly bigger frame. With the right one the motor fits like a glove.
Congrats on your hard work so far. You can do it!
would you mind showing us a picture of your walbro set up? is there a noticable diffrence in power or smoothness of the engine?
as for mounting the motor like clotho said you must make absulutely certain that it is secured very tight. what you could do, is get your self 2 solid blocks of aluminum attach it to the current mounts with shorter screws then drill holes on the sides of the aluminum blocks you just installed in the correct position for your frame so you can attach the mounting brackets, it will require a lot of grinding to get it right. but it can be done with basic tools you can get an inexpensive belt (ryobi) sander for the grinding part, and hopefully you already have drill with some good bits.
its almost done just waiting for tapered end mill and i have to figure out how to put pic i still didnt read the tutorial and i cant tonight i have to get to work on it right now (IM FIENDING MAN!) PEACE !!
Now that I've teased you for breaking your carb if you can send me a drawing of what you need and make a intake make exactly of what you want out of pvc or some parts cut and glued together I could make you a nice one out of steel. looks like it needs to be a short run on the intake and a little offset to the left if your setting on the bike. let me know
not a good picture of my offset intake manifole but i think you will get the idea
that's a clean setup,Norm;what and whose brand motor do you use...Lisa
When you are ready to post photos, it's very easy...
Go to the thread and click the "reply gear". When you get there, scroll down until you see "manage attatchments" and click that.
Then browse and upload....it will make small fast loading thumbnails that can be clicked on to enlarge.
I might take you up on that offer, let me know what for figuring for a price.
I have everything assembled....minus the carb. Ran into some more complications mounting. Right now it's being JB-welded to an elbow. Soon as that is dry I can't wait to give the engine a try. With my frame everything was a VERY tight fit but I love the look of it all. After I get the engine actually running I'm going to have to go through and see what needs tightening, what places have too much vibration, etc.
PS that durn exhaust pipe is a lot harder to bend than people make it come off to be!!!!
I also nee an offset carb intake. If you are sitting on the bike I need it to be offset to the right about 1 inch in order to get my carb level.
It works! It works!! It REALLY WORKS!
Sorry, a small part of me doubted that I would actually get the thing running. I did get it to turn over though, rather easily, but there's still plenty left for me tweak. There's a lot of vibration in some places and I want to make sure I don't mess anything up riding. It cut off on me a few times when idle and it's taking me a while to get used to the clutch.
Is there a place on this site that will give me some idiot proof directions on getting the engine running smooth, now that it's put together? I don't know much about adjusting the carburetor levers and whatnot.....
Just go ride it and tweak as you go. It will take some effort to get things going smoothly for the first couple of weeks. Once it has a chance to properly break in the vibrations should decrease.
The only carb adjustment that means a hill of beans besides the idle screw is the e-clip notch setting on the needle. From what I read here the average setting it the second notch from the top.
Also, for the first week or so I recommend taking a screwdriver and a socket and wrench for the head bolts and a socket for the intake and exaust manifolds with you on your rides. Befor and after each ride make sure the screws, nuts, and bolts aren't vibrating loose. Pay particular attention to both manifolds. The cheap stock gaskets tend to blow out on both sides so it may be a good idea to go ahead and order some new ones now or make some.
That's not ghetto, That's untried engineering!
Takes me back to those Junkyard Wars watching days.
What does the needle-notch thing do? I don't remember which notch I stuck it on. Actually, to be honest, I didn't even think I put the darn thing together correctly until I tried it out. I hope it doesn't go against my credibility, but I was shocked that I put everything together correctly (or at least close enough). Those pdf. directions are vague to say the LEAST!
My instructions specifically stated to put the e-clip on top of that silver c washer thingy when everyone here says that it belongs under it. If I remember correctly moving the e-clip up a notch makes it run leaner and lowering it one notch makes it run richer.