Cannonball Builds a Briggs and Scrap Iron

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silverbear

The Boy Who Never Grew Up
Jul 9, 2009
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northeastern Minnesota
I have a similar drain plug problem on my 5 horse Tecumseh on the "Kindalikeawhizzer" build. I find that I need to lower the engine a couple more inches,but that will make removing the drain plug either a pita or impossible. Looking at the plug Ludwig posted got me to thinking about the problem again and seeing it on the screen magically transported me to the hardware store... and I saw a possible solution for me which involves an elbow threaded in and something or other threaded to the other end of the elbow leading to a valve to drain the oil into a container. Real time in the plumbing department and staring at stuff should lead to some kind of Rube Goldberg solution. Thanks!
SB
 

Tony01

Well-Known Member
Nov 28, 2012
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sf bay area
Looks really nice and well sorted. No middle of the seat tube jackshaft cluttering the appearance.. Nice big tank and headlight... Nice job!
 

cannonball2

Well-Known Member
Oct 28, 2010
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Colonial Coast USA.
Thanks beginner01!

Its coming along. I have some ideas for it when I get home in a few days. Got a bit of engine work like rebuild the carb and decarbonize the head/valve area. Of course paint too. The worst is done.
 

cannonball2

Well-Known Member
Oct 28, 2010
3,682
223
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Colonial Coast USA.
Got back last night and most of the parts I ordered had come in. So will spend a full day on the bike. Will tackle the fenders, chain guard and the foot rest issue.

Interestingly I was looking at city bikes online and saw a Schwinn with an unusual frame It had a double loop rear section. The rear rim brakes were mounted almost exactly like this bikes.
 

cannonball2

Well-Known Member
Oct 28, 2010
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Colonial Coast USA.
Got most of what I wanted to do today done.

Got the fenders mounted. Had to section the rear fender because the previous owner of the bike butchered the front part for clearance for the chain for the 48cc CG that was on the bike when I got it. Also For what ever reason the Chinese use a shorter fender than I like, almost looks like a bobber. So I lengthened the fender while I was at it. Looks better now. A bit of filler and all will be well.
The front fender is from a donor bike. Its a bit narrower but had to use it to get the rim brake to work. I moved it forward a bit so the brake aligns with the indents for the fork on the other bike. Worked great.

Am really tired of crappy brake handles. Got a pair of repro Amal handles for classic British M/Cs. Can probably crush the rims with these dudes. 3speed shifter will go on the left--KC Vale style.

Got an original made in the USofA Do Ray clearance light for the tail light. A bit of trimming and some black paint and it will fit the bill. Came in a vintage Sears box. Probably older than a lot of folks on the forum here. Thinking late 60s early 70s?

Added faux pedals for foot rests. Welded up a mount using a 3pc spindle. Main reason besides it looks right is that the placement gets my left foot back out of the left side chain area. I have a chain guard but distance is good too. The right side is largely in the clear. Found a seller that sells pedal spacers(stainless, really nice) for half of what others cost. Pedal is spaced 25mm and feels perfect. The left is a 150mm crank while the right is a 170. Keeps from stretching so far back on the left.

Welded the H/L bracket to the fork to take the load off the brake thru bolt. Light is pretty heavy. Both lights will be converted to LED.

So far so good.
 

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Jan 17, 2015
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Nice!! Fenders got a nice fit all around the tire. Always thinking huh..one short, one long 'foot peg'. Like the levers too. Been thinking off trying mc levers. Tank has a good look. Hey I've got a nexus, how did you mount your sprocket?
 
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cannonball2

Well-Known Member
Oct 28, 2010
3,682
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Colonial Coast USA.
Thanks Scratch!

You have a good eye on the fenders. Had to make two small extensions the extend the rear fender to get the proper spacing. Details details.

A common CG sprocket will bolt directly to an 18t sprocket on an IGH or coaster, aligns easily and runs very true.


Scrollerguy

The BB mod is just flange bearings bolted to the BB. The clutch is a 12t, mainly because I screwed up and ordered that instead of the 11t I wanted. It runs to a 28T which I had on hand. This also keeps the sprocket size small for clearance. These are #35 chain. This gets the most teeth in the smallest overall size.

The secondary side is a 9t to a 44t running a BMX chain. This gives an 11.41 overall ratio. The 3speed Nexus takes this ratio to a 15:1 for low and an 8:1 for 3rd. 2nd is direct drive at the 11:41. This gives a top speed around 43mph should I want twist the engine to 4750rpm which a stocker will do no problem.
 

cannonball2

Well-Known Member
Oct 28, 2010
3,682
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Colonial Coast USA.
Nice job and a great look. I love Briggs builds.
Thanks much! I consider that quite a compliment coming from the forums
premier Briggs builder.

Got a bit of tinkering done. Trimmed and mounted the tail light. Made a "tool box" battery holder from a cookie can. Soldered the lid of another can to the end so it would be finished on both ends, Then soldered on a reshaped copper water pipe bracket to mount it. This frame had perfectly placed threaded bosses for this that were used for the front mounts of a rear rack. This will hold a 3cell 2500ah Lipo battery for the lighting. I converted my sailboats lighting to LEDs and have several bulbs left over for this. Should run the lights forever on a charge. The light switch will be in the cans end. Looking at the pic on the cans end seems 2hp did a lot of work in the old days!

Also fitted the chain guard, but need longer spacers to get it over the clutch.. Have my eye on one of my wifes stainless mixing bowls to mount to the end of the clutch. It will spin with it but will only polish the jeans rather than rip em off should I get them in the area.

The shifter fits well mounted KC Vale style. Exhaust is next, then it pull it apart for engine work and paint.
 

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cannonball2

Well-Known Member
Oct 28, 2010
3,682
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Colonial Coast USA.
My obligation to be out of town is finally over, got home last night and spent the morning on the bike. The build is close to being finished to the point of paint.

Made and ran all the cables. These M/C levers have massive pull for the brakes. Made an adapter to run a cone style air filter, added a vintage style reflector, vintage style pedals, and roughed out the exhaust. Havent decided yet to run a muffler or just let it rip. Yet to make a shield for the clutch. Still looking for the right thing.
 

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Ludwig II

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Jul 17, 2012
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What about a brace or two? Honda's first international racer, which took part in Sao Paulo's 400th anniversary celebrations.

 
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cannonball2

Well-Known Member
Oct 28, 2010
3,682
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Colonial Coast USA.
L2

I am always amazed at what you can come up with! I have spent hours in your European Lightweight thread.

That is a most unusual M/C! They must have had a lot of tubing on hand.

Actually the (Shimano)Nexus is the 3speed hub. It has done well behind the 49cc 2stroke. The mighty B&S may send it to the recycler. Hope not. I plan to be kind to it.

The Schwinn Delmar frame which is the basis of the build is fairly beefy. If not I will add a brace or two.
 

Ludwig II

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Jul 17, 2012
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The frame is an ordinary Honda road bike beefed up for racing. They finished, not last, but were made painfully aware how far they had to go to win away from home.

Oddness abounds. There is a cycle shop in America which probably has the only Caproni autocycle in the world. I can't find one in any Italian search.