I would go with 5 KW. You will still go fast like the wind. And get the flux vector controller with sine wave output, they are much better than hall device commutation.
72V 100A 60Ah 4.3kWh 10s24p 200lbs.....
- Thread starter miked826
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Yep Vector is the way to go for sure.
5kW will go fast but will it go fast quickly? I want to be able to see cars behind me fade fast in my mirror from a stop light. The 10kW will hardly be breaking a sweat. It's rated at 160A continuous.
I would recommend the same. 5 kW is a lot of power, and too much will cause reliability issues for a daily rider especially considering your bikes rigid frame. Even 5 kW seems borderline as it is. Plus your range will be farther.
I'm just enjoying the banter. I don't exactly believe some of the HP claims, but seems like 5KW is pretty huge. 10KW? If you could pull that off, it would be really sweet.
And bike the way I do LOVE THE STYLE OF YOUR BUILDS!!
Tell us more about your brake regen.
And bike the way I do LOVE THE STYLE OF YOUR BUILDS!!
Tell us more about your brake regen.
The vector controller can be programmed with any cutoff setting you want to limit juice to the battery. I just don't want to caught underpowered cause I'm too lazy and too old to be doing any pedaling. My pedals will be to rest my feet on and that's about it. LOL
The problem I see with this motor is that if you want to make the max 20KW power output you need to run it at 120V at 166A, that means you're going to need almost twice as many batteries as you planned for the other one running 72v at 100A, if you have $5k to spend on a bunch of batteries that can go puff if you do anything out of their operating limits, or cells start dying and overloading the other cells and making them fail prematurely, it could be quite an expensive learning experience.I had Brake Regen and my batteries loved it. My brake pads loved it well. I only had a single front disc brake and my Brake Regen is what actually brought me to a stop most of the time.
I guess I'll be gettin this 10kW of illegal magnetic goodness instead of the 5kW!
Honestly, if I were you, I'd stick a slightly modded 212cc predator on that bike and enjoy it, you can muffle it to make it quiet and it will be cheap and trouble free for many miles.
Five will be plenty, trust me - 
Don't forget that full torque is available at zero speed. You will be faster than any car off the line. Not to mention that 5 KW is continuous, you have 15 KW peak.
You better have a stout motorcycle type drive sprocket / wheel or risk ripping the spokes to shreds.
5/15 will be plenty.
Don't forget that full torque is available at zero speed. You will be faster than any car off the line. Not to mention that 5 KW is continuous, you have 15 KW peak.
You better have a stout motorcycle type drive sprocket / wheel or risk ripping the spokes to shreds.
5/15 will be plenty.
Thanks much.
I don't believe the HP claims either and I don't want to be caught short in the Get Up and Go department. The 5kW and 10kW would both actually fit together if I was crazy enough to do that. I have plenty of room.
Brake Regen never fades. It feels like AntiLock brakes on a car and was much stronger than my hydraulic disk brake was. I rode my bike for months without Brake Regen so I know what it feels like with and without it. Brake Regen should be mandatory on all high speed / high amp controllers for its braking features alone.
Actually my batteries are rated at (220A continuous / 275A for 10 seconds).
My electrical math is spot on this time. It's irrefutable.
Yeah I'll be using Kings Super Sprocket / Top Hat duo.Five will be plenty, trust me -
Don't forget that full torque is available at zero speed. You will be faster than any car off the line. Not to mention that 5 KW is continuous, you have 15 KW peak.
You better have a stout motorcycle type drive sprocket / wheel or risk ripping the spokes to shreds.
5/15 will be plenty.
You'll need the full 120V to get the max claimed power out of the 20KW motor, that means twice as many batteries run in series to get the voltage required.Actually my batteries are rated at (220A continuous / 275A for 10 seconds).
My electrical math is spot on this time. It's irrefutable.
At only 60V, it would make 10KW at maximum current flow of 166A for that motor. Again, you should really at least buy a book on electrical circuits or electric drivetrains and read it, and realize that you can't pick and choose your own reality, specifications are what they are, and if you don't follow the guidelines and match your systems specifications throughout it won't perform as planned or at worse it will start killing expensive components. If you blindly go about buying stuff without researching thoroughly how the whole system will work together in harmony, it's gonna be a huge disappointment. Electric bike component vendors must love selling stuff to guys like you, bent on learning things the hard way through puffs of smoke and melted parts.
Facts of life, laws of physics.
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220A x 66V = 14,520 Watts. 275A x 66V = 18,150 Watts. That is called 3rd grade math.
Nobody in here, including me, ever stated that 20kW was possible with my 6s33p LiPo battery pack. Now you are just preaching to the choir.
The thing you're neglecting to think about is the analog electrical characteristics of the battery-controller-motor circuit. At a lower voltage of 60V you're not going to be drawing a full 220A, I doubt it will pull more than 90A if it draws 166A at 120V.
Again, I urge you to not mix up the specifications fo your motor, battery and controller, and understand how a basic analog circuit with a resistor (bad model for a motor but works okay for a model at stall or low speed) works with regards to voltage drops and current flows. Buy a book and read it, the understanding of electrical circuits will benefit you when selecting components to put together as a DIY configuration.
If you don't understand what you're doing, results may vary.
Again, I urge you to not mix up the specifications fo your motor, battery and controller, and understand how a basic analog circuit with a resistor (bad model for a motor but works okay for a model at stall or low speed) works with regards to voltage drops and current flows. Buy a book and read it, the understanding of electrical circuits will benefit you when selecting components to put together as a DIY configuration.
If you don't understand what you're doing, results may vary.
18kW, 66V, 275A for 10 seconds = 24HP of spinal cord twisting, asphalt wrinkling, shoulder dislocating goodness. I am going to tear the air in half, as I pass through it with my bicycle.
See, 5 KW with 15 peak will be plenty.
I see the top hat thing is supposed to bolt to the disk brake flange on the wheel. Is that flange a beefy heavy duty thing? Trust me when I tell you that that motor has enough torque to shred bicycle wheels. You might want to consider a moped wheel for the rear.
I see the top hat thing is supposed to bolt to the disk brake flange on the wheel. Is that flange a beefy heavy duty thing? Trust me when I tell you that that motor has enough torque to shred bicycle wheels. You might want to consider a moped wheel for the rear.
Okay, NOW I'm done with you, you're an completely out of touch with reality or the laws of physics regarding what you intend to do. You'd rather spout a bunch of BS words on here than put in the homework required to make a reliable bike that you will enjoy riding that will actually meet the performance claims that your repeatedly spout off on here like anybody really gives a crap, as if big talk ever meant anything when the rubber actually hits the road.
YOU NEED TO UNDERSTAND HOW A BASIC ANALOG ELECTRICAL CIRCUIT WORKS!
You're hopeless. I hope you are able to wake up in time before you set your bike on fire, shock yourself badly, burn your batteries, controller, or motor to the ground, or have your unbraced rear frame structure crack off at high speed if you actually luck out and get something together that will move forward.
I tried to help you, but you won't listen. Ignorance will get you nowhere when dabbling in engineering, and you will pay for doing things the hard way by learning from mistakes when dealing with high power electrical or mechanical assemblies on a frame which is questionably constructed.
Good luck dude, realize I have the best of intentions, and you have had an arrogant and ignorant approach toward my advice trying to point you in the right direction.
I wash my hands clean of you, you're beyond saving. Wear lots of protective clothing, lol.
YOU NEED TO UNDERSTAND HOW A BASIC ANALOG ELECTRICAL CIRCUIT WORKS!
You're hopeless. I hope you are able to wake up in time before you set your bike on fire, shock yourself badly, burn your batteries, controller, or motor to the ground, or have your unbraced rear frame structure crack off at high speed if you actually luck out and get something together that will move forward.
I tried to help you, but you won't listen. Ignorance will get you nowhere when dabbling in engineering, and you will pay for doing things the hard way by learning from mistakes when dealing with high power electrical or mechanical assemblies on a frame which is questionably constructed.
Good luck dude, realize I have the best of intentions, and you have had an arrogant and ignorant approach toward my advice trying to point you in the right direction.
I wash my hands clean of you, you're beyond saving. Wear lots of protective clothing, lol.
Tires are DOT rated to 93 MPH, spokes are 11 gauge and the rim is a 18" dirt bike motorcycle rim. I used the Top Hat / Super Sprocket and it worked fine on my last bike but that's not saying a whole lot, so your guess is as good as any as to what is gonna happen. LOL
Cool. I like the 11 gauge and the motorcycle rim stuff.
How about the hub? Go out and pic a close up so I can see it please.
How about the hub? Go out and pic a close up so I can see it please.
Regen is pretty much standard these days and it works well. A little too well as I find I apply too soon and stop short.
It's just built into the controller and activated by a switch in the brake lever.
It's just built into the controller and activated by a switch in the brake lever.