Hub motors just suck in comparison as far as DOLLAR FOR DOLLAR brute force power, maintenance, and weight balance goes. I already had a hub motor bike and it was good but not good enough for ME. LOL
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72V 100A 60Ah 4.3kWh 10s24p 200lbs.....
- Thread starter miked826
- Start date
The motor is pristine on the exterior of the inside but obviously there is another layer that I can't see where the Halls are located cause the the shaft is locked tight. The bearing is in the damn way of 4 allen head screws. How do I get that off then what do I have to do after? Uuuuuggghh.
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Mike:
Those allen screws are not the issue, the potting compound on them says 'Leave me alone"
The bearing can be removed with a puller if you want to, but it can stay for now.
The Halls Sensors appear to be located in the aluminum ring in the center of the stator:
The next step is to remove the other end plate. A 3 jaw gear puller should pull it right off of the bearing on the fan end.
If you can, post a picture of the end view of the motor, looking straight at the end of the shaft.
Nice work so far, no damage caused by disassembly. You are taking your time & doing it right. All of these steps would be normal for bearing replacement on a motor with a lot of hours. Good practice.
B
Those allen screws are not the issue, the potting compound on them says 'Leave me alone"
The bearing can be removed with a puller if you want to, but it can stay for now.
The Halls Sensors appear to be located in the aluminum ring in the center of the stator:
The next step is to remove the other end plate. A 3 jaw gear puller should pull it right off of the bearing on the fan end.
If you can, post a picture of the end view of the motor, looking straight at the end of the shaft.
Nice work so far, no damage caused by disassembly. You are taking your time & doing it right. All of these steps would be normal for bearing replacement on a motor with a lot of hours. Good practice.
B
After I get the back cover off then will I be able to see what locked the shaft or will I need another tool?
The same puller will get the bearings off as well.
Apply force gently to that plate, it is thin. If it is deflecting, warm the area around the bearing with a heat gun while the puller is still snug - that usually does it.
Usually the auto parts store has a puller you can borrow.
You should be able to see inside the Stator one the end plate is off.
.
Apply force gently to that plate, it is thin. If it is deflecting, warm the area around the bearing with a heat gun while the puller is still snug - that usually does it.
Usually the auto parts store has a puller you can borrow.
You should be able to see inside the Stator one the end plate is off.
.
No stator visible. Just an almost carbon copy view of the other side of the motor. Now what do I remove? LOL
A full clamshell. More than I would have expected in a motor from china
Pull the snap ring, and the 4 screws on the snap ring end of the motor.
Bolt the balancer puller across the flat end of the Stator & push on the shaft from the snap ring end.
It should separate at the ring where the Hall sensors are.
You are doing good, nothing damaged. Imagine what would have happened if you had started with a hammer...
Pull the snap ring, and the 4 screws on the snap ring end of the motor.
Bolt the balancer puller across the flat end of the Stator & push on the shaft from the snap ring end.
It should separate at the ring where the Hall sensors are.
You are doing good, nothing damaged. Imagine what would have happened if you had started with a hammer...
I can not lie. I used a rubber mallet on the last motor cover, not a gear puller! I put the motor between 2 saw horses and tapped on the axle with one hand and held the motor with the other until the motor separated from the cover. LOL
No only did I blow the motor but something happened to the controller as well that almost burned a hole through the plastic case of the controller. One innocent mouse click's worth of destruction. LOL
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I don't know if this would help, but if the motor is completely locked up, check yor phase wires and make sure they are not shorted together. When 3 of mine phase wires insulation failed, they were shorted together and completely locked up the motor. Sorry if this has already been mentioned.
Thanks but whatever it is, it is deep inside the clamshell. The clamshell has not been opened up yet. The motor has less than 15 minutes on it if you can believe that. LOL I'm just going to sell the motor for parts and the bike as a rolling frame. Unfortunately I don't have an R&D budget to continue any further.
Here you go, you know you want one.
https://www.kickstarter.com/project...bike-most-affordable-ebike-ever?ref=discovery
https://www.kickstarter.com/project...bike-most-affordable-ebike-ever?ref=discovery
LOL Yeah you just can't beat it for affordability. It's truly for the masses. Just the dang motor controller of mine that went up in smoke was about $480 with the contactor and shunt.