72V 100A 60Ah 4.3kWh 10s24p 200lbs.....

man. You might have burnt that motor up good. You might need a new motor. Lucky you didn't kill yourself. you might wanner buy a kill switch lol you sure you know what your doing??
 
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kevyleven007 said:
man. You might have burnt that motor up good. You might need a new motor. Lucky you didn't kill yourself. you might wanner buy a kill switch lol you sure you know what your doing??
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When you have a motor controller or anything electrical with no definitions, no operating instructions, no warnings, and no user manual, then I was literally flying blind. Who wants to put a hood over your head and jump in the cockpit next? Don't be shy. I wasn't. LOL

It was pretty anti-dramatic actually. The motor just went from 3500 RPM to 0 RPM in a few revolutions with a puff of smoke and what sounded like Hall Sensors being ground up like they were in a blender is all. LOL

It doesn't matter how much you know or don't know about the controller, it should never allow the destruction of the motor by any type of mouse click or keyboard input.......but yet it did. The software for it is just beyond primitive.
 
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yeah s*** happens . that's the price you pay for being the first to try something. you get to make all the mistakes first too. all that software stuff confuses me. good luck
 
Not all chinese junk has sails.

The motor should not mind a hard stop. The Hall sensors are stationary - they should not be affected at all by a hard stop.

Don't blame the software. The motor should not have failed.
 
FFV8 said:
Not all chinese junk has sails.

The motor should not mind a hard stop. The Hall sensors are stationary - they should not be affected at all by a hard stop.

Don't blame the software. The motor should not have failed.
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LMAO The software should not have allowed it PERIOD no matter if the engine could handle it not. There is no logical reason on this planet why you would ever need or want to bring an electric motor from 3500 RPM to 0 in 1 revolution. 3500 to 0 RPM in 1 revolution is like hitting a brick wall. That can't be a good thing.

I do blame the software. It sucks. It's old. It would have been easy to simply grey out the tab if the engine was turning. I know what craptastic software from the 1990's looks like. LOL
 
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Doubtful it stopped in 17 milliseconds. No way it made more than a 'thunk" if it did.

We stop servos that hard all day long.

You can blame the software for doing exactly what it was written to do - which should have had no effect on a quality motor.

Open it up & post some pics - let's see what really failed.
 
FFV8 said:
Doubtful it stopped in 17 milliseconds. No way it made more than a 'thunk" if it did.

We stop servos that hard all day long.

You can blame the software for doing exactly what it was written to do - which should have had no effect on a quality motor.

Open it up & post some pics - let's see what really failed.
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It might have been 75 milliseconds. I didn't have time to clock it. It was almost an instantaneous stop as hard as that is to believe. I was less than 2 feet from it. LOL

The software should not allow keyboard or mouse input to destroy the motor on purpose or by accident. Especially if the controller has no operating instructions or warnings of any kind that would warn a user of impending doom. Fail Safe's in controller software is not Voo Doo science. It's quite easy actually.

I tried to open it up but was worried about putting it back together. So I left it alone. It's h3ll to crack that thing open. Something gave way and was ground up on the walls of the motor casing. I'm seriously thinking one of the armature arms on the stator broke loose. Nothing else makes any sense at all.
 
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FFV8 said:
Doubtful it stopped in 17 milliseconds. No way it made more than a 'thunk" if it did.

We stop servos that hard all day long.

You can blame the software for doing exactly what it was written to do - which should have had no effect on a quality motor.

Open it up & post some pics - let's see what really failed.
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I forgot to add the resistor for the Magura Throttle. Innocent enough. I just turned the key to shut down the motor. Then I left the motor running to thumb through the tabs to check the readings until I hit the "Test" tab. All innocence was lost after that on that one mouse click. LOL

I'm not saying the motor isn't partly to blame but both are made by the exact same company. If I was company CEO and knew the motor is cheap then I would make damn sure the controller software covered/protected the motors cheapness as much as it could possibly do so.
 
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It was either a Hall or an armature arm on the stator. There ain't much inside to break loose. It's dirt simple. LOL

img_brushless_01
 
The chinese booger glue holding the magnet probably failed.

Still the motor at fault. I am standing 2 feet from one of these:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fanuc-A06B-0502-B001-AC-Servo-Motor-Model-20S-/321706165039?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ae72e832f

It is making 1 inch moves - shoving 1,000 pounds of CNC table Y axis @ 840 inches per minute. That means it accelerates, moves 1 inch & stops that load in under 150 milliseconds. It had been running these parts all day. Machine was made in 1986, and the x & y motors are original PM 3 phase brushless motors.

A quality motor will slam to a stop a hundred times an hour without damage.
 
FFV8 said:
The chinese booger glue holding the magnet probably failed.

Still the motor at fault. I am standing 2 feet from one of these:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fanuc-A06B-0502-B001-AC-Servo-Motor-Model-20S-/321706165039?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ae72e832f

It is making 1 inch moves - shoving 1,000 pounds of CNC table Y axis @ 840 inches per minute. That means it accelerates, moves 1 inch & stops that load in under 150 milliseconds. It had been running these parts all day. Machine was made in 1986, and the x & y motors are original PM 3 phase brushless motors.

A quality motor will slam to a stop a hundred times an hour without damage.
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You know more than I do. If you say it can then it can. My motor's pretty on the outside though. Not worth a dang on the inside. LMAO
If I take think thing apart, what are my chances of getting it back together with normal hand tools?
 
When you're building on the cutting edge you got to expect to break some stuff. That's how you eventually get it right.
 
Mike:

That motor is a Golden HPM right?

Pull the cover & fan off the back end of it & post a picture of it.

Does the shaft rotate at all, or is it locked solid?
 
FFV8 said:
Mike:

That motor is a Golden HPM right?

Pull the cover & fan off the back end of it & post a picture of it.

Does the shaft rotate at all, or is it locked solid?
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Pull the cover and fan off? Easy for you to say. I will attempt it.
Yep it is a Golden HPM motor and the shaft is locked.
 
biknut said:
When you're building on the cutting edge you got to expect to break some stuff. That's how you eventually get it right.
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Yeah I know that, but damn did it have it be the motor? Motor death by mouse click? That is beyond ridiculous even for a screw up like me. LOL
 
FFV8 said:
Mike:

That motor is a Golden HPM right?

Pull the cover & fan off the back end of it & post a picture of it.

Does the shaft rotate at all, or is it locked solid?
Click to expand...

Now what do I do? I don't want to go smacking on the thing if something else is holding it together.

photo.JPG
 
Good, that is a start.

We will not be beating on any part of a motor. Hammers are not for motor work.

This is the only information Golden would send me on the motor:

http://www.goldenmotor.com/hubmotors/hubmotor-imgs/HPM%2010KW-Drawing%20(Fan%20Cooling).pdf

Assuming this is a "outrunner" style motor we would just press the guts out of it. But, let's make sure how it is really built before putting any force on things.

Remove the 4 screws that hold the cover on the terminal box. You should be able to pull the plate away from the motor a little bit - a half inch should be enough.

Use a flashlight, and look to see where the wires go. If they are headed for the shaft end of things, it is probably a classic outrunner. Post a pic of that if you can.
 
FFV8 said:
Good, that is a start.

We will not be beating on any part of a motor. Hammers are not for motor work.

This is the only information Golden would send me on the motor:

http://www.goldenmotor.com/hubmotors/hubmotor-imgs/HPM%2010KW-Drawing%20(Fan%20Cooling).pdf

Use a flashlight, and look to see where the wires go. If they are headed for the shaft end of things, it is probably a classic outrunner. Post a pic of that if you can.
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I only got one question. How could there be ZERO clearance between the battery cables and the motor yet the motors shaft is dead center as normal? LOL
 
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