72V 100A 60Ah 4.3kWh 10s24p 200lbs.....

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miked826

miked826

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Aug 6, 2011
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16v4nrbrgr said:
Okay, NOW I'm done with you, you're an completely out of touch with reality or the laws of physics regarding what you intend to do. You'd rather spout a bunch of BS words on here than put in the homework required to make a reliable bike that you will enjoy riding that will actually meet the performance claims that your repeatedly spout off on here like anybody really gives a crap, as if big talk ever meant anything when the rubber actually hits the road.

YOU NEED TO UNDERSTAND HOW A BASIC ANALOG ELECTRICAL CIRCUIT WORKS!

You're hopeless. I hope you are able to wake up in time before you set your bike on fire, shock yourself badly, burn your batteries, controller, or motor to the ground, or have your unbraced rear frame structure crack off at high speed if you actually luck out and get something together that will move forward.

I tried to help you, but you won't listen. Ignorance will get you nowhere when dabbling in engineering, and you will pay for doing things the hard way by learning from mistakes when dealing with high power electrical or mechanical assemblies on a frame which is questionably constructed.

Good luck dude, realize I have the best of intentions, and you have had an arrogant and ignorant approach toward my advice trying to point you in the right direction.

I wash my hands clean of you, you're beyond saving. Wear lots of protective clothing, lol.
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I have the specs on the 20kW BLDC motor. I have the specs on the 40-50C batteries. I have the specs on the 500A Field Oriented Sine Wave Vector Controller. I also have a calculator and all the calculations are in line with each other and speak for themselves. Speculations and approximations are pretty much meaningless at this point.

"Do or do not, there is no try."

 
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miked826

miked826

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14HP, 10.5kW continuous: 66V @ 160A (60A under the battery packs maximum continuous "C" Rating). I can live with those figures quite nicely.
 
miked826

miked826

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Mike B said:
This looks like it might be up to the task.

http://www.bikerumor.com/2012/08/29/chris-king-unveils-disc-brake-road-hubs-pressfit-bbs-more/

Remember that Scotto shredded his rear hub with his race bike and that you will have even more torque available.
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My hub axle is 250mm wide, axle nut to axel nut.

The vector controller should have a few Acceleration Profiles that I can choose from that will prevent my wheel and hub from being torn to pieces. I just need to understand where the physical limits of my bike are exactly. I have nothing to reference for any kind of guideline.
 
miked826

miked826

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One thing I do know is that all electrical cables, plugs, wires will be concealed, buried, and or camouflaged. The motor will also be camouflaged beige to match the rest of the bike. The gas tank will be left in place to add to the confusion. LOL
 
Mike B

Mike B

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Mar 23, 2011
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Yeah, I know. You have a tough job.

You have to have pedals to be legal (at least to look legal) but bicycle stuff is really just not big enough for your application.

That's why I suggested the moped stuff. It's built stronger than bicycle stuff and still has the pedal sprocket.

Or you could go straight motorcycle wheel and run a jackshaft and pedal through a freewheel. That would be my suggestion.

And since you will have to ruin the finish to weld on the jackshaft bearing hangers, you can add those seat stays too - :)

Really, that's a serious motor you have there on a serious motorcycle you are building that just happens to need pedals. Start thinking in that direction.
 
biknut

biknut

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Sep 28, 2010
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miked826 said:
One thing I do know is that all electrical cables, plugs, wires will be concealed, buried, and or camouflaged. The motor will also be camouflaged beige to match the rest of the bike. The gas tank will be left in place to add to the confusion. LOL
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I would fill the gas tank with beer.
 
miked826

miked826

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Aug 6, 2011
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Mike B said:
Yeah, I know. You have a tough job.

You have to have pedals to be legal (at least to look legal) but bicycle stuff is really just not big enough for your application.

That's why I suggested the moped stuff. It's built stronger than bicycle stuff and still has the pedal sprocket.

Or you could go straight motorcycle wheel and run a jackshaft and pedal through a freewheel. That would be my suggestion.

And since you will have to ruin the finish to weld on the jackshaft bearing hangers, you can add those seat stays too - :)

Really, that's a serious motor you have there on a serious motorcycle you are building that just happens to need pedals. Start thinking in that direction.
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I already got the pedals. I'm holding off on the crank arms until it has working brakes. I will hear no jackshaft talk. It is gonna be a direct #40 or 520 chain drive from the motor to the 72T sprocket in the back.
 
miked826

miked826

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Mike B said:
Take it easy on that hub, it doesn't look too beefy.
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Yep. Every setting that will keep this bicycle in one piece is inside this thing.



I will be doing a slow Mission Creep upward on the settings. Just like the Mission Creep in the Vietnam War. My outcome should be similar. LOL
 
Mike B

Mike B

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Mar 23, 2011
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You Rock Baby!

That's the most amazing e-build I've seen here. Be careful.

I've been working 5 KW motors for a long time now, I have respect. That's a lotta power in a small package.
 
miked826

miked826

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Aug 6, 2011
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Mike B said:
You Rock Baby!

That's the most amazing e-build I've seen here. Be careful.

I've been working 5 KW motors for a long time now, I have respect. That's a lotta power in a small package.
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Thanks. If I can keep it all in one piece including myself, then it should be a good thing I would think. LOL

10kW motors maximum momentary HP/Weight ratio on my bike is 10lbs/HP. Equal to a 2 ton car with a 400HP motor.
 
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