72V 100A 60Ah 4.3kWh 10s24p 200lbs.....

miked826 said:
What bicycle is built at a factory that is able to install a 8" diameter 20HP electric motor and run 4" wide front and rear motorcycle tires though? I'd like to see that "factory" built bike because I've never have seen it before. LOL
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Yeah, I'm pretty sure there's no other bicycles like yours.
 
biknut said:
It's a valid concern for most motor bicycles. That's one of the arguments for factory builds.
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The distance between my rear dropouts is 8" and the cargo area in the back can, I'm guessing, withstand 400+ lbs of weight. There is no such factory bicycle that exists with that ability, as no company as seen any logical reason to build such a bicycle with those kind of specs before. Times, they be a changin' real fast, even if I have to change them myself. lafflaff
 
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biknut said:
Yeah, I'm pretty sure there's no other bicycles like yours.
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God knows I never wanted to take up welding and if I never weld anything again in my life, I would not miss it one way or the other. Maybe 20 years ago
when I was a younger man, but not now. I only did it because I had to basically.
 
If my bike frame does give way, it's gonna give way at the bottom bracket where the pedals are. That is the weakest, least reinforced, part of my bike. It feels as solid as a tank when I pedal it but that doesn't mean a whole lot at that speed and current weight of 120 lbs. LOL
 
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My new light. Keeping this 2 wheeler as bicycle-like as I can possibly keep it. Blending in with all the other bicycles on the road. That's my goal. LOL

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miked826 said:
My new light. Keeping this 2 wheeler as bicycle-like as I can possibly keep it. Blending in with all the other bicycles on the road. That's my goal. LOL

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I'm digging that headlight. I think electric bicycles in general are setting a new trend with very bright, ultra modern, space age looking headlights.
 
biknut said:
I'm digging that headlight. I think electric bicycles in general are setting a new trend with very bright, ultra modern, space age looking headlights.
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It's only 9 Watts of Cree LED light. I can't use Halogen or my 12V battery would dry up in no time.
 
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Wow I cant believe you built the frame! Havent followed the the whole thread so this was the first I had heard of that. Beautiful work! I would advise considering adding a strut from the area where the members that support the rear wheel are welded to the lower frame tube to the base of the "seat tube" in the area where the rack is welded. The rack is offering precious little support to the rear wheel frame work, so it is(rear frame) in a semi cantilever situation. I also dont know the tubings wall thickness so if you have a massive spec tube there its probably fine. The all up weight of this build will impose some pretty good stresses. Just my opinion and not trying to be critical, just something to consider. Once again beautiful work!!
 
cannonball2 said:
Wow I cant believe you built the frame! Havent followed the the whole thread so this was the first I had heard of that. Beautiful work! I would advise considering adding a strut from the area where the members that support the rear wheel are welded to the lower frame tube to the base of the "seat tube" in the area where the rack is welded. The rack is offering precious little support to the rear wheel frame work, so it is(rear frame) in a semi cantilever situation. I also dont know the tubings wall thickness so if you have a massive spec tube there its probably fine. The all up weight of this build will impose some pretty good stresses. Just my opinion and not trying to be critical, just something to consider. Once again beautiful work!!
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Thanks. Actually the support is working just fine for what's being asked of it, as the bike has not told me otherwise. I keep asking it and how it's holding up and the reply has not changed, no matter how I ride it.

It not just the size of tubes or the diameters it's how they are connected to one another. It's also the fact that there is not one recorded instance of the exact frame type failing........ever. What people online are referring to are frames geometries with no seatstay or rack of any kind.

I'm sure people thought Cannondale was as crazy as a loon when they decided to get rid of 1 of their fork legs but that's exactly what they did. LOL

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Not nearly as heavy as I expected but I wouldn't want to get hit upside the head with either the motor or the controller.

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High and Low Beams off the handlebar switch are now connected to the headlight and 12V battery and working normally. Definitely a birds nest of wires in the left ammo can. I'll deal with that nest later. All brake, head and turn signal lights on the bike are now functioning. Relatively painless. Glad to be done with it though. Only the electric air horn remains to be done.
 
Final mounting position for the controller so it can have as much airflow as I can possibly get it. I have to manage the anticipated heat coming off each one or all of this will be one big waste of time and money.

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Yep, I'll only be taking this bike on a ride only when it's dark outside, for a while anyway. It's just looking a bit too radical, even for me, even though it is an electric bike. I can only hide and camouflage so much stuff on it to make it look innocent and harmless. LOL
 
miked826 said:
It's much easier to underwork a big electric motor than to overwork a smaller one. The searing heat is easier to keep in check. So I said, Super-size me. LOL
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I have come to that same conclusion, albeit on much smaller scale with my bike. If I ride somewhere at 25 to 30 mph my motor hardly gets warm. I was thinking a bike only capable of 30 mph at wfo would be getting a lot hotter than mine.
 
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