72V 100A 60Ah 4.3kWh 10s24p 200lbs.....

LED brake, running and turn signal lights are all now fully functioning. LED turn signal relay does make a loud clicking noise to let you know the blinkers on. Most likely would not be heard over the noise of a gas motor though while wearing a helmet. LED relay cost: $5.

$_1.JPG
 
Last edited:
The contactor is for the ignition key switch. It allows me to use very tiny wires for that switch, without them bursting into flames. This is the hornets nest of wires, that will be completely concealed from view, once I'm done.

HPM+Drive+System+Setup.jpg
 
Knowing almost nothing about electric bicycle circuitry I was thinking it might have something to do with the ignition switch.

I still don't really understand though. Isn't all the big current only between the motor, and controller?
 
biknut said:
Knowing almost nothing about electric bicycle circuitry I was thinking it might have something to do with the ignition switch.

I still don't really understand though. Isn't all the big current only between the motor, and controller?
Click to expand...

It only is with a contactor (aka relay). Without it, the ignition switch and it's wires would take the full force of the battery pack every time you turned it on. That can't be a good thing. LOL
 
miked826 said:
It only is with a contactor (aka relay). Without it, the ignition switch and it's wires would take the full force of the battery pack every time you turned it on. That can't be a good thing. LOL
Click to expand...

What do you mean by, full force of the battery? How much current are we talking about going through the switch? I would think it's less than 1 amp.
 
biknut said:
What do you mean by, full force of the battery? How much current are we talking about going through the switch? I would think it's less than 1 amp.
Click to expand...

You're right. It would be fine simply turning it off and on at less than 1 Amp........... until you floor the throttle that is. On my bike that would shoot up to 200A (momentary) into the ignition switches wires. The controller can release up to 300A, if the battery pack can handle it. Those wires would need to be as massive as the ones running to the motor to keep them from bursting into flames.
 
biknut said:
What do you mean by, full force of the battery? How much current are we talking about going through the switch? I would think it's less than 1 amp.
Click to expand...

At 72V, this motor is capable of withstanding 280A for 30 seconds. I will set the controller to go no higher than 200A. That will get me 14,400 Watts (for about 60 seconds if I can keep the motors heat at bay). That should be enough to get me down the road at a pretty good clip. I'll be wearing a rocket deployed drag chute on my back just in case it's ever needed. laff

HPM-10KW%203D.jpg
 
Last edited:
miked826 said:
You're right. It would be fine simply turning it off and on at less than 1 Amp........... until you floor the throttle that is. On my bike that would shoot up to 200A (momentary) into the ignition switches wires. The controller can release up to 300A, if the battery pack can handle it. Those wires would need to be as massive as the ones running to the motor to keep them from bursting into flames.
Click to expand...

I was thinking the full motor current would only be between the motor, and controller. The switch turning on the controller would only only be subjected to the current necessary to run the controller which should be low.

In my bikes case apparently they put the CA ahead of the controller. The throttle talks to the CA, then the CA talks to the controller. I've read that my throttle has low voltage, maybe 5v. I'm thinking the 2 wires from my ignition switch go to the CA, but I'm not sure about that. I think the CA has 72v to it, but it's a low current curcuit. That's what I think.

I've yet to actually see a wiring diagram for my bike.

It's also my understanding that if one were so inclined they could remove the CA, and run the throttle straight to the controller, and run without the CA.
 
biknut said:
I was thinking the full motor current would only be between the motor, and controller. The switch turning on the controller would only only be subjected to the current necessary to run the controller which should be low.

In my bikes case apparently they put the CA ahead of the controller. The throttle talks to the CA, then the CA talks to the controller. I've read that my throttle has low voltage, maybe 5v. I'm thinking the 2 wires from my ignition switch go to the CA, but I'm not sure about that. I think the CA has 72v to it, but it's a low current curcuit. That's what I think.

I've yet to actually see a wiring diagram for my bike.

It's also my understanding that if one were so inclined they could remove the CA, and run the throttle straight to the controller, and run without the CA.
Click to expand...

The ignition switch has to be between the source and the destination(motor)
and that switch and it's wire has to be rated at the same amps as the controller or a contactor or relay has to be used. This link pretty much explains it all.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Relay#Basic_design_and_operation
 
I'll be momentarily running 3X the amps of the Stealth Bomber. Contactors/Relays were built for that very reason. My bike will be almost 2X the weight of the Bomber, so I need all the amps I can get my hands on. LOL
 
I don't know anything about high power eBike wiring, and only a little about my bike, but I do know a Bomber has a Crystalyte hub motor, and controller. I think the way it operates is fairly standard, based on descriptions I've read and just looking at what I have.

In my bombers case I'm pretty sure the key switch only turns on the controller, but never has more than a couple amps going through it. Between the controller and the motor is where all the amps are. The battery, and the controller are always potentially hot as long as the battery is plugged in, but there's zero current draw as long as the key switch is turned off.

How all this is accomplished, I can't exactly tell you, but I assume there's only electronic switches other then the key switch..
 
biknut said:
I don't know anything about high power eBike wiring, and only a little about my bike, but I do know a Bomber has a Crystalyte hub motor, and controller. I think the way it operates is fairly standard, based on descriptions I've read and just looking at what I have.

In my bombers case I'm pretty sure the key switch only turns on the controller, but never has more than a couple amps going through it. Between the controller and the motor is where all the amps are. The battery, and the controller are always potentially hot as long as the battery is plugged in, but there's zero current draw as long as the key switch is turned off.

How all this is accomplished, I can't exactly tell you, but I assume there's only electronic switches other then the key switch..
Click to expand...

Yeah my old 48V Crystalyte bike I built had no contactor either. This 200 Amp realm is somewhere I've never been before either. You're asking the wrong guy as this is a totally different animal then what I'm normally use to. All I know is the cables for it are huge welding grade cables. The controller is also huge (motorcycle grade) The motor (motorcycle grade) weighs almost 40 lbs and the batteries will weigh 60 lbs. My "bicycle" will weigh between 230 and 250 lbs. when it is completed. God help me if ever lose electrical power to it, for whatever reason. lafflaff
 
I've been electrocuted a bunch of times doing electrical wiring to my house but I always had the muscle control to let go of the wires or I'd be dead a long time ago. I must have built up a tolerance to high voltage or maybe I was partially insulated at the time. I don't know. laff
 
miked826 said:
Yeah my old 48V Crystalyte bike I built had no contactor either. This 200 Amp realm is somewhere I've never been before either. You're asking the wrong guy as this is a totally different animal then what I'm normally use to.
Click to expand...

That's what I was thinking, yours must be totally different because of the higher power.
 
biknut said:
That's what I was thinking, yours must be totally different because of the higher power.
Click to expand...

I just hope the bike frame, that I welded together myself, doesn't tear itself apart while I'm riding it down the road. Road Rash will take on a whole new meaning on this thing if it does.
 
biknut said:
It's a valid concern for most motor bicycles. That's one of the arguments for factory builds.
Click to expand...

What bicycle is built at a factory that is able to install a 8" diameter 20HP electric motor and run 4" wide front and rear motorcycle tires though? I'd like to see that "factory" built bike because I've never have seen it before. LOL
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top