58s Schwinn Wasp Build (My Dad's old bike)

[MEASURE TWICE]

I now have my tension/clutch pulley with an arm that I can modify I believe.

==============================

This if for a chain I understand, but something much like this I would want as an idler pulley for a vee-belt that would push on the outside of the vee-belt to tension it.

Anyone know where to get the right kind of pulley that is good for the outside of the vee-belts or is there some way you make from scratch?

MT

My current post to the Idler Pulley Thread
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?p=451379#post451379


Art Fish Mobile Motor Bike prior Motor Bike DIY'er build to add side car maybe?
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=29678&page=9

 

[dracothered]

==============================

This if for a chain I understand, but something much like this I would want as an idler pulley for a vee-belt that would push on the outside of the vee-belt to tension it.

Anyone know where to get the right kind of pulley that is good for the outside of the vee-belts or is there some way you make from scratch?

MT

My current post to the Idler Pulley Thread
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?p=451379#post451379


Art Fish Mobile Motor Bike prior Motor Bike DIY'er build to add side car maybe?
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=29678&page=9

It is for my primary drive which is a V belt drive. What you see in the picture is a tension pulley from a wood chipper and the arm from a snow blower. You can find many on E-bay or go to a store like Tractor Supply Co. and get a tension pulley, then make up the arm for it.

 

[silverbear]

It is for my primary drive which is a V belt drive. What you see in the picture is a tension pulley from a wood chipper and the arm from a snow blower. You can find many on E-bay or go to a store like Tractor Supply Co. and get a tension pulley, then make up the arm for it.

MT,
You might want to check with Quentin Gunther to see if he can help you, If I understand what you are saying, it sounds like the tension pulley and armature used on the Q-matic transmission. I imagine you'd need to contact him through the other forum. SB

 

[MEASURE TWICE]

Thanks Dracothered an SB, I found what I need at Tractor Supply:

http://www.tractorsupply.com/home-i...-idler-pulley-5-8-in-bore-3-1-4-in-od-1185243

I may or not use it, but looks right with width for 1/2 inch to 5/8 inch flat belt, which is actually then the back of the A section Vee Belt that is 1/2 inch. The bore is also 5/8 inch so I can use the parts I have already to make the tensioner bracket if I do not buy one.

MT

 

[curtisfox]

Thanks Dracothered an SB, I found what I need at Tractor Supply:

http://www.tractorsupply.com/home-i...-idler-pulley-5-8-in-bore-3-1-4-in-od-1185243

I may or not use it, but looks right with width for 1/2 inch to 5/8 inch flat belt, which is actually then the back of the A section Vee Belt that is 1/2 inch. The bore is also 5/8 inch so I can use the parts I have already to make the tensioner bracket if I do not buy one.

MT

That is a big one you can get smaller ones. Any lawn tractor repair shop will have them,like John Deer they have them down to about 1 1/2" size like deacothered's picture...........Curt

 

[dracothered]

Here it is, but not finished...


I might put it on the other side of the seat tube.

 

[dracothered]

Thought I would see what the Jack Shaft would look like on the other side of the seat post. I think it would be better there as it gives room for the generator. It also puts the pulley in a better looking position / alignment with the output pulley.

 

[curtisfox]

Yep thats a lot better. Getting to a AWESOME build..........Curt

 

[GearNut]

I agree. It looks better behind the seat post tube.

 

[2door]

Draco,
I've been lurking, watching this thread from page one and I want to compliment you on your innovation and imagination. This is going to be a project that you will be justifiably proud of. Keep after it, sir and keep the progress reports coming. You have a lot of fans watching. Good luck.

Tom

 

[dracothered]

I thank all that have said stuff about my build and even thank those that have just looked in on it. As I move forward on it I hope to hear both what you like and even what you don't like.

Also do let me know when I have done something you don't think will work. A good example was my original intake manifold idea that would of used both copper and steel. If it wouldn't have been pointed out that the copper will work harden and become brittle I might have made a blunder there.

 

[MEASURE TWICE]

Fitting the jackshaft behind the seat post tube has more room it seems and looks good. I had only that choice as the Briggs 3hp 4 stroke took up all available space on my motor bike.

I looked at information on work hardening and hope that the flexible corrugated copper exhaust I have from water pipe parts will not have that problem on my motor bike.

MT

Art Fish Mobile Motor Bike prior Motor Bike DIY'er build to add side car maybe?

See posts #93 to #95 on page 10 for pics of the problem with engine crankshaft keyway curvature by end nearest the crankcase oil seal

http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=29678&page=10

http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?p=454501#post454501

 

[PaPa_FoZzY]

watching this build, looking forward to "borrowing" ideas lol

 

[dracothered]

watching this build, looking forward to "borrowing" ideas lol

May have to charge a fee for borrowing ideas....

 

[RicksRides]

Thought I would see what the Jack Shaft would look like on the other side of the seat post. I think it would be better there as it gives room for the generator. It also puts the pulley in a better looking position / alignment with the output pulley.

Draco whats the generator off of ? Builds looking good !!!

 

[dracothered]

Draco whats the generator off of ? Builds looking good !!!

It is one of these...

28 Volt DC PM Motor

Used, LEESON model 46282512P1. Permanent magnet motor. Use for small blowers, pumps, etc.
SPECIFICATIONS

• HP 1/25
• Voltage 28 DC
• Amps 1.8
• RPM 4200
• Reversible
• Duty continuous
• Mount face 1-1/4" sq.
• Shaft 5/16" diam. x 1-1/2"
• Size 2-3/8" diam. x 4-5/8"
• Shpg. 3 lbs.

http://www.surpluscenter.com

Still need to decide how I'm going to drive it. Either off the engine or off the Jack Shaft, though I have to look at that some more.

This is my test voltages that I got out of it.
At about 2500 to 2800 RPMs it puts out 16.5 volts with no load. This is about right because it works out to 1v DC per every 150 RPM (Rated: 28v, 4200 RPM).

When I put a 12v 35w(I think it is 35w) utility light on it the voltage drops to 15.3v DC drawing 2.5 amps. So I do believe with these reading it should work out great to keep a 12 battery fully charged all of the time. Let me know what you think.

 

[MEASURE TWICE]

Thanks for pointing out that electric motor you have which has permanent magnets and I would then assume it has brushes which does mean it can be used as a generator. Good deal!

I have a fuel pump that runs 12 volts at 12 amps. It runs real smooth at supposed to be 1750 rpm. It was in the dumpster and the pump does not function, but the motor turns good.

I'll see if I would fix the pump or scavenge the motor out of it for something like what you are doing.

Since I have twin jack shafts, which means that at full throttle I could use one of the slower moving jack shafts to be attached to the motor used as a generator. This makes sure that it shall not be turning faster than safely acceptable. I did notice that the motor you have does 4200 rpm so you got a winner there!

I know you have a 12volt battery. What battery is it that you are using, type and ampere hour?

A voltage regulator circuit or one specifically for charging the battery may be something to use. In the simplest form you might on the cheap just dispense with a regulator and just use a high enough wattage rated resistor with an ohm value picked to limit the charge current to protect the battery.

I am in between jobs as an electronic technician, but my dad long ago showed me how to use a higher direct current voltage source safely to charge batteries with this method of just a single resistor.

It was cheap and crude, but effective. With a toy train transformer that out puts 18 VAC and a full wave bridge selenium rectifier to make a fairly smooth 14 VDC voltage, we put off buying a car battery charger.

There is an internal resistance in a battery and with the right resistor picked and put in series with the charger going to the battery you limit the current that charges protecting the battery.

We used a current meter in series that could handle the maximum current and measured the current charging the battery. Trying various resistors of high enough wattage rating, we found one that would give a charge current at about 10 percent of the ampere hour rating of the battery. It is sort of a safe rule of thumb. The small group U1 absorbed glass mat sealed lead acid battery I have is 12 volts 30 ampere hours, so I would limit to 3 ampere hours.

The toy train transformer and the rectifier I would figure could output around 20 amps at 12 volts DC which we would use to jump a battery to help start the car in the winter but not as a regular charge source.

MT

 

[dracothered]

I will be using a voltage regulator to charge a battery. Still haven't gotten a battery just yet so I will have to wait and see on that bit. Be careful with those old selenium rectifiers, because if you burn one out they produce a toxic fume.

 

[dracothered]

Fabricated some more of the exhaust system.

 

[WightBoy]

Looking good draco! I don't know how far that bungee cord primary though!