It seems to eat propane like crazy and I think I am losing most of my heat through the roof. I might try putting a couple fire bricks on the top of it to radiate heat.
58s Schwinn Wasp Build (My Dad's old bike)
- Thread starter dracothered
- Start date
I think I gotta go with Curtis on this one. I never did like metal on metal. A steel chain rolling across a steel roller ain't gonna be too good for the chain. Somethings gonna give, like the bottom of the chain flatening out. A softer roller will wear out, but can be replaced cheap. A GOOD chain is $25 or $30. These are only $6.95 Ea.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-CHAIN-T...Cycling_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2325b447d7
fatdaddy.
This is for my primary drive which is a belt, so it will be rubber on steel and if it wears out (the bearings go bad) I will replace it with a skate wheel.
OOP'S, Sorry. I'm sure you already said you were using a belt drive. Belt on steel roller is cool. And I should read these things closer.
fatdaddy.
Well even though it was cold out (32° F) and I ran out of propane for my heater I worked on my bike some. I got some new used fenders that I can hack up and not worry about ruining the originals.
The space between the seat post and the tire I will put a battery / tool box.
The space between the seat post and the tire I will put a battery / tool box.
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More pictures of the new fender...
Here is what it will kind of look like with the battery/tool box put in there.
Here is what it will kind of look like with the battery/tool box put in there.
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Looking good! Nice that you could stash the original away and the new one is pretty close in color. One thing you might think about before cutting material for the battery box is spacing the front / leading end of the new fender off the frame so that it is concentric with the rear wheel. It seems like having fenders that follow the line of the wheel makes them look like they belong there. My two cents anyway.
I know I was pretty cold with my toaster oven sized space heater going today. Can't imagine handling small parts without heat.
I know I was pretty cold with my toaster oven sized space heater going today. Can't imagine handling small parts without heat.
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The rear wheel needs to be moved forward as it is because it is at the rear of the dropout, which will give me no adjustment the way it is. This should help some with making the space even inside the fender.
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I see. No point in making changes that will just need to be changed again later. I'm looking forward to seeing how you fab your battery box. Mine is functional as a junction box but I'm not very happy with how it looks up close or the ease of access (or lack of it).
I always leave the axle all the way back in the dropout. I don't want my axle slipping AT ALL at 35mph. If it's all the way back it has nowhere to go and is a very solid mount. I simply add a couple links to my pedal chain and use a tensioner on it. I don't know if you're using a tensioner on your drive belt though.The rear wheel needs to be moved forward as it is because it is at the rear of the dropout, which will give me no adjustment the way it is. This should help some with making the space even inside the fender.
fatdaddy.
IT'S YOUR BIKE, BUILD IT YOUR WAY.
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Here is what I will be doing for my setup.I always leave the axle all the way back in the dropout. I don't want my axle slipping AT ALL at 35mph. If it's all the way back it has nowhere to go and is a very solid mount. I simply add a couple links to my pedal chain and use a tensioner on it. I don't know if you're using a tensioner on your drive belt though.
fatdaddy.
IT'S YOUR BIKE, BUILD IT YOUR WAY.
1. Primary is a belt drive with a friction style setup (Tension pulley to engage primary drive)
2. Secondary is a chain drive and hope to set it up with little to no need of a tension pulley or sprocket.
3. Pedal chain tensioner.
So you could leave the axle set all the way back if you want. This way the axle is always straight, No need to try to keep the wheel centered as you're tightening axle nuts. And if ya hit a good bump at 35mph you KNOW your axle is NOT going to slip in the dropouts. If it does slip you're gonna loose all the alignment on both sides, pedal and motor. Since I've been doing it this way I've had no problems with slippage or alignment.
fatdaddy.
IT'S YOUR BIKE, BUILD IT YOUR WAY.
P.S. It'll also leave just a little more room for the box.
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Kool, never thought about the force of it being knocked backwards in the dropout.So you could leave the axle set all the way back if you want. This way the axle is always straight, No need to try to keep the wheel centered as you're tightening axle nuts. And if ya hit a good bump at 35mph you KNOW your axle is NOT going to slip in the dropouts. If it does slip you're gonna loose all the alignment on both sides, pedal and motor. Since I've been doing it this way I've had no problems with slippage or alignment.
fatdaddy.
IT'S YOUR BIKE, BUILD IT YOUR WAY.
P.S. It'll also leave just a little more room for the box.
Another thought ten speeds have a little tab on the derailer that fills the dropouts slots some one could make something like it that would hold the axel further foward if needed..A touch of bronz or washers to hold it...even sholder........Curt
I set it up this way the first time on a friends bike. He was the kind of guy that "rode it like he stole it" every day. He thought it was a dirt bike or something. The axle nuts started to wear out the dropouts from getting knocked back so much. Then it happend to me one day. I hit a pothole in the dim evening light and was stuck trying to put it back together as I was losing daylight. THAT was fun.
Set up this way I would have to bend a rim or a frame to lose alignment. And trying to tighten axle nuts tight enough to stop it tends to strip out axles and nuts. Curtis had a good idea too. Weld, or just build a spacer behind the axle to hold it where you want it. You could put the axle in any position you want. Some, not all, derailleurs already have a spacer built in
ANYWAY, Thats just how I do it. You've been doing a GREAT job on your bike so far, so just keep up the good work and take only the advice that feels right to YOU.
fatdaddy.
IT'S YOUR BIKE, BUILD IT YOUR WAY.
The idea of a shim being used is good I think as long as you have one side of the axle in the drop out that is all the way back. The other side of the axle used with the shim to get tire not to rub just a slight distance to adjust seems OK.
I have seen the kiddies bikes with these clips that the axle on front or rear cannot come out of the drop outs even with the nuts loose. You have to totally remove the nuts and use a maneuver to get the "s" shape part un-clipped from the frame and the axle.
My set up is all belts and the one going to the rear drive pulley could under tension cause the axle to move toward falling out the drop out if the nuts are loose. I will be making something to hold the axles in place if the nuts loosen something like the kiddies bike parts. In addition some kind of tool to make to tension the belt I will make. The idea of popping on a belt over a pulley I found works OK if they are heavy duty.
The problem is with two of my pulleys that are spoked and 10 inch diameter mounted on the rear drive wheel and my top of a twin stack jackshaft will bend if using this method. I cracked one pulley on the rear wheel drive and am redoing it with a spare part, but have learned the hard way.
I can pop the belt on those pulleys only when I create slack first. Then I can tension up with something I devise. I intend on using the drop out for the rear. The other pulley I am making either a slotted adjustable idler pulley or one with a loaded spring.
MT
I have seen the kiddies bikes with these clips that the axle on front or rear cannot come out of the drop outs even with the nuts loose. You have to totally remove the nuts and use a maneuver to get the "s" shape part un-clipped from the frame and the axle.
My set up is all belts and the one going to the rear drive pulley could under tension cause the axle to move toward falling out the drop out if the nuts are loose. I will be making something to hold the axles in place if the nuts loosen something like the kiddies bike parts. In addition some kind of tool to make to tension the belt I will make. The idea of popping on a belt over a pulley I found works OK if they are heavy duty.
The problem is with two of my pulleys that are spoked and 10 inch diameter mounted on the rear drive wheel and my top of a twin stack jackshaft will bend if using this method. I cracked one pulley on the rear wheel drive and am redoing it with a spare part, but have learned the hard way.
I can pop the belt on those pulleys only when I create slack first. Then I can tension up with something I devise. I intend on using the drop out for the rear. The other pulley I am making either a slotted adjustable idler pulley or one with a loaded spring.
MT
I've never seen a wheel get pulled forward by the engine torque. If the axle nuts are even half way tight this will probably never happen. What I HAVE seen happen, more than a few times, is the axle getting knocked back.
And if yer gonna put spacers in the dropouts they should be even on both sides. If just one side slips yer stuff is gonna fall off or get twisted up.
Axle adjusters work great, I think it would be a PITA to put them on a bike with this kind of dropout. If you could figure it out though it might be worth it.
Red.
IT'S YOUR BIKE, BUILD IT YOUR WAY.
And if yer gonna put spacers in the dropouts they should be even on both sides. If just one side slips yer stuff is gonna fall off or get twisted up.
Axle adjusters work great, I think it would be a PITA to put them on a bike with this kind of dropout. If you could figure it out though it might be worth it.
Red.
IT'S YOUR BIKE, BUILD IT YOUR WAY.
I did not lengthen my left side dropout on the rear as I only needed to spread the dropout a little to get my drive pulley to fit.
It is spaced to the left a bit. I could be compensating for alignment by a small amount where the dropouts ends are not equal because of that.
I bent the left dropout so that it is parallel and have run the bike an works good except for slipping belts that I have ideas to fix and have implement one so far on my twin stacked jackshaft.
MT
See: Post #80 Page #8 of Measure Twice's:
Art Fish Mobile Motor Bike prior Motor Bike DIY'er build to add side car maybe?
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?p=449188#post449188
It is spaced to the left a bit. I could be compensating for alignment by a small amount where the dropouts ends are not equal because of that.
I bent the left dropout so that it is parallel and have run the bike an works good except for slipping belts that I have ideas to fix and have implement one so far on my twin stacked jackshaft.
MT
See: Post #80 Page #8 of Measure Twice's:
Art Fish Mobile Motor Bike prior Motor Bike DIY'er build to add side car maybe?
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?p=449188#post449188