58s Schwinn Wasp Build (My Dad's old bike)

[dracothered]

Ok, tonight when I was working on the air filter setup I sat on the bike and decided to pull on the pull start rope and noticed the engine flexed to the side some. To me this is no good because it is asking for trouble. So here is what I came up with to stiffen up the motor mount.

This is only a mock up of it.

 

[fatdaddy]

Ok, tonight when I was working on the air filter setup I sat on the bike and decided to pull on the pull start rope and noticed the engine flexed to the side some. To me this is no good because it is asking for trouble. So here is what I came up with to stiffen up the motor mount.

This is only a mock up of it.

Just my opinion. But I think if ya just ran a single peice of flatbar from the center of your mount to where yer gonna bolt it anyway it would work as well and not have a big clunky hunk of metal on yer bike. Less weight too. All yer trying to stop is the side to side movement, and one brace would do it.
But hey, IT'S YOUR BIKE, BUILD IT YOUR WAY.
fatdaddy

 

[silverbear]

Or you could could brace it from the top end from the cylinder head bolts. Take a look at the Pennysworth thread and see Rick did on his Jacobsen engine. It's an option anyway.
SB

 

[dracothered]

Or you could could brace it from the top end from the cylinder head bolts. Take a look at the Pennysworth thread and see Rick did on his Jacobsen engine. It's an option anyway.
SB

Thought about doing it that way too at the top of the engine though to be honest I am not sure how to undo the head bolts seeing as they look like a flat head screw crossed with a phillips head screw so there are two flat head slots.

There is a hole that could be tapped for a screw on the head also, but I think I would need a special tap to do it without removing the head from the engine, because the hole goes all the way though the head, but part of the cylinder blocks the hole when it is installed.

Just my opinion. But I think if ya just ran a single peice of flatbar from the center of your mount to where yer gonna bolt it anyway it would work as well and not have a big clunky hunk of metal on yer bike. Less weight too. All yer trying to stop is the side to side movement, and one brace would do it.
But hey, IT'S YOUR BIKE, BUILD IT YOUR WAY.
fatdaddy

I thought about that also, but was thinking of looks also. Maybe if I cut out most of the center I can have the looks and less weight.

 

[fatdaddy]

Yeah, just cut the center out. Great idea. Less weight and would look real cool. That's why I always say, IT'S YOUR BIKE, BUILD IT YOUR WAY.
fatdaddy.

 

[dracothered]

How to mount the tank...

It looks like it was just in a strap type setup before. What do you guys think would be the best way?

 

[silverbear]

I'm guessing you're going to paint to paint the tank, not that it matters in how to mount it. You could use leather straps with buckles, but I think I'd use stainless steel clamps lie big hose clamps. Lowes has nice ones. I'd run them so them were in line with the bike, ( in line with the rack) and not crosswise, and I'd put the adjuster at the bottom. As you tighten the clamp it will want to conform to the shape of the tank and it will be very secure. You might want to put a piece of wood or metal under the rack to give the clamps more to grab on to. This way you don't need to make any new holes in the rack.
Tha's what I think I'd do, anyway. That's what I've done with cylindrical tanks.
SB

 

[RicksRides]

Thought about doing it that way too at the top of the engine though to be honest I am not sure how to undo the head bolts seeing as they look like a flat head screw crossed with a phillips head screw so there are two flat head slots.

Theres a tool specifically made for removing slotted head bolts (screws). Its a impact driver put the flat tip bit in the driver, set driver in slot and smack with a hammer and wah-la loose bolts. One can be purchased for less then 20$ an most motorcycle shops.

If you were closer then howell I'd tell you to come get one of mine, bikes lookin good. keep us posted, Rick

 

[dracothered]

Theres a tool specifically made for removing slotted head bolts (screws). Its a impact driver put the flat tip bit in the driver, set driver in slot and smack with a hammer and wah-la loose bolts. One can be purchased for less then 20$ an most motorcycle shops.

If you were closer then howell I'd tell you to come get one of mine, bikes lookin good. keep us posted, Rick

Thanks Rick, I will have to get one of these.

SB you gave me an idea and thanks.

 

[dracothered]

Here is the bottom motor mount brace all made and installed.

 

[killercanuck]

Looks good and beefy, shouldn't move now unless you want it to.

 

[maniac57]

You should also consider boxing the angle iron of your mount if you can. Adding a flat bar to close the side of an angle makes it MUCH stiffer. You may not be able to due to bolt clearance concerns, but be aware of the potential for stiffening any angle fabrication. Boxing is a good way to get strength without a lot of material.
Great looking bike so far! I'm with the patina crowd and LOVE the look you have there.

 

[dracothered]

You should also consider boxing the angle iron of your mount if you can. Adding a flat bar to close the side of an angle makes it MUCH stiffer. You may not be able to due to bolt clearance concerns, but be aware of the potential for stiffening any angle fabrication. Boxing is a good way to get strength without a lot of material.
Great looking bike so far! I'm with the patina crowd and LOVE the look you have there.

The non pedal chain (left as you sit on it) could be boxed mostly except for where the motor mount plate bolt down. I think the brace that I added today that goes down to the bottom crank tube has stiffened it up and I still might tap the blank hole in the head for a top bracket.

 

[fatdaddy]

The non pedal chain (left as you sit on it) could be boxed mostly except for where the motor mount plate bolt down. I think the brace that I added today that goes down to the bottom crank tube has stiffened it up and I still might tap the blank hole in the head for a top bracket.

Here's how you'll know if it's strong enough. You, or a very big friend, Put one hand on the frame, the other hand on the engine. Pull the frame, push the engine sideways. Then push the frame and pull the engine towards you. Give it all you got both ways a few times. If it moves, even a little, do more bracing. If it don't move AT ALL, yer done.
fatdaddy.

 

[dracothered]

Made some straps and mounted the gas tank. As you can see the rear rack has not been modified to mount the tank.

Two bolts go through a cross bar the goes across under the rear rack.

Strap hooks under the cross bar on the rack.

 

[silverbear]

Looks good!
SB

 

[curtisfox]

Yes looks good! Are you going to put some gasket materal or the like under the tank? .........Curt

 

[dracothered]

Yes looks good! Are you going to put some gasket materal or the like under the tank? .........Curt

Yea I will install something to protect it from wearing through.

 

[fatdaddy]

Your doing a damned fine job Drac, I'm impressed.
fatdaddy.

 

[dracothered]

Your doing a damned fine job Drac, I'm impressed.
fatdaddy.

Thanks fatdaddy...

I look at an area that needs to be done and then think about how to do it. Some of the ideas I can figure out on my own and other areas I get inspired here from all you fine folks.