58s Schwinn Wasp Build (My Dad's old bike)

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GearNut

Active Member
Aug 19, 2009
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San Diego, Kaliforgnia
It is coming along quite nicely! I like how the engine fills out the space in the frame. Do you have any photos from above, front or back? How wide is the engine?
 

atombikes

New Member
Feb 14, 2010
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Northern VA
Make sure you get it where you like it with the filter on too, can only solder/braze/weld once :)
I know what you guys mean; but you can solder or braze more than once. That's one of the nice things about brazing bicycle frames. Put enough heat on the joint, and pull it apart. Just like you can un-sweat a soldered pipe.

Now welding, that's forever...

dracothered, you are putting a lot of work into your engine and it is starting to show. Looking good.
 

silverbear

The Boy Who Never Grew Up
Jul 9, 2009
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northeastern Minnesota
It does look good with the way the engine fills the space a it does. And a nice placement of the carburetor. Along with the fifties look of the engine it makes it look like it might have come that way originally. Your Dad's bike lives on... very cool.
SB
 

dracothered

New Member
Jul 25, 2012
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Howell, MI.
It does look good with the way the engine fills the space a it does. And a nice placement of the carburetor. Along with the fifties look of the engine it makes it look like it might have come that way originally. Your Dad's bike lives on... very cool.
SB
Yes it lives on and so far I haven't had to mod the original parts much, but I think I will have to cut on the rear fender some when I start installing the chain drive. Also need to make up my mind about the pedal crank on weather to heat it and bend it or replace with one of these.

 

MEASURE TWICE

Well-Known Member
Jul 13, 2010
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I know what you guys mean; but you can solder or braze more than once. That's one of the nice things about brazing bicycle frames. Put enough heat on the joint, and pull it apart. Just like you can un-sweat a soldered pipe.

Now welding, that's forever...

dracothered, you are putting a lot of work into your engine and it is starting to show. Looking good.

Welding in my case, I was able to remove it, but one half the parts destructed in the process as I cut and ground away.

The weld was a bead around the edge which was strong enough, and I thought I would just cut the edge away and start over. I wanted the part to be bolted to be movable for adjustment later I found out. The section type v-belt was going to be my adjustmet answer, but the links under too much force come apart or frayed.

I finally got it redone but most cases you probably are right, it is a done deal!

It may have been easier to start out with new part than to remove one of the welded. Hinhsight 20:20!

http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=29678&page=7

MT
 

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silverbear

The Boy Who Never Grew Up
Jul 9, 2009
8,325
670
113
northeastern Minnesota
Yes it lives on and so far I haven't had to mod the original parts much, but I think I will have to cut on the rear fender some when I start installing the chain drive. Also need to make up my mind about the pedal crank on weather to heat it and bend it or replace with one of these.

I've used a couple of those cranks. On one build I needed to use a smaller sprocket and had to modify one from a 24" bike (or maybe it was from a 20") and because it had a round hole i had to file it out to hexagonal to make it fit. Cranks seems to be well made.

I'm trying to remember on my 53 Hornet which had a Schwinn springer fork how I held the fender in place. I'll look for some photos to remind myself.
SB
 

msrfan

Well-Known Member
Sep 17, 2010
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Southern California
Hey SB. The Schwinn springer has a clip that the pivot bolt slips through as you assemble it. The clip is similar to the rubber covered straps, but with no rubber and hardly shows. The fender bolts to the clip straight up in the middle of the goose neck bottom and then the fender braces holds the rest.
 

silverbear

The Boy Who Never Grew Up
Jul 9, 2009
8,325
670
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northeastern Minnesota
Hey SB. The Schwinn springer has a clip that the pivot bolt slips through as you assemble it. The clip is similar to the rubber covered straps, but with no rubber and hardly shows. The fender bolts to the clip straight up in the middle of the goose neck bottom and then the fender braces holds the rest.
Yes, that's it! And on the fender is a little L shaped bracket.
SB
 

silverbear

The Boy Who Never Grew Up
Jul 9, 2009
8,325
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northeastern Minnesota
As I recall it was quite secure. The braces hold the fender and the aforementioned clip keeps the fender from rotating. I put a lot of miles on that bike. It is always good to check things, however. If doing it another way makes you feel safer, then go for it. It is your bike. The fender clip was good metal on the original springer fork (I know nothing of the newer reproductions)and the fenders were good metal, too. But if it were to rotate... disaster.
SB
 

dracothered

New Member
Jul 25, 2012
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Howell, MI.
As I recall it was quite secure. The braces hold the fender and the aforementioned clip keeps the fender from rotating. I put a lot of miles on that bike. It is always good to check things, however. If doing it another way makes you feel safer, then go for it. It is your bike. The fender clip was good metal on the original springer fork (I know nothing of the newer reproductions)and the fenders were good metal, too. But if it were to rotate... disaster.
SB
Yes I don't think the repro's are the same so bolting the fender on in the same way is not a good idea. Will use the pipe clips/hangers around the fork tubes bolted through the side of the fender.

rustycase
Re: failure walning
dracothered
If I am correct heating copper anneals it and the only way to harden it is by work hardening it either by pounding on it or bending it. Also I plan on silver soldering the pieces together (yes it is a form of brazing). So I don't see how it would crack and fail as you say. If you have a better idea please let us know.
in reverse order...

Sure, I can offer a better idea! use steel tube!

The copper fitting itself will crack and fail. Not the silver solder joint. Engine vibration will cause it to harden, become brittle, and then, fail. No telling how long, and unexpected is a bad thing!

That is, unless you were intending to build a static display... Steampunk copper/brass looking engine parts look kool!

Please feel free to seek a second opinion!
I would, if I were you. :)
Best
rc
__________________
My goal is cheap, reliable, personal transport, below the tax collector radar. Fun counts for a lot!
The above quote is a PM between rustycase and me, now with what he said I believe I will get a steel fitting in place of the copper one. Don't want a failure if I can help it.
 

killercanuck

New Member
Dec 17, 2009
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Save your money on those cranks, find someone with some torches and bring beer.



From the top view, you might have to bend one side out farther than the other anyways, eh?


Edit, hells yea, Rusty's a good guy.

Edit 2 - remember Wayne Z's cold bending bars? Those might be an option if you have the stock handy: Cold Bending Crank
 
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dracothered

New Member
Jul 25, 2012
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Howell, MI.
Alright here is the second part of rustycase and my PM about the intake.

rustycase said:
Yes, silver solder is an acceptable method for fastening steel. Fit and finish is important though.
Much more so than brazing.
IMO, brazing would be just fine, strength - wise.

and better to do all this in the open forum...

So others will volunteer a 2nd opinion, and, others will benefit from the discussion.

I like MABs!
More people should be running around on them!
...at least when it's an acceptable means of transport for what they need to get done !

Best
rc
 

dracothered

New Member
Jul 25, 2012
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Howell, MI.
That's why the fender attached to a clip on the pivot bolt, so it pivots with the forks.
Ah ok, so this clip goes to the pivot bolts on each side and goes down to the fender. Does it just clip the lip of each side of the fender or is it also bolted to the fender?
 

msrfan

Well-Known Member
Sep 17, 2010
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Southern California
No, the clip is centered right over the fender. I think your springer is hollow up from the bottom of the steering tube. If it is, you can take the rubber off one of your clamps and bend the metal into a loop that will reach up into it and thread the pivot bolt through it. Make it ''L'' shaped to lye flat on the top of the fender. Then use a small bolt and nut to secure it to the fender. I'm just guessing your fender has a mounting hole in the top center.