It is coming along quite nicely! I like how the engine fills out the space in the frame. Do you have any photos from above, front or back? How wide is the engine?
I know what you guys mean; but you can solder or braze more than once. That's one of the nice things about brazing bicycle frames. Put enough heat on the joint, and pull it apart. Just like you can un-sweat a soldered pipe.Make sure you get it where you like it with the filter on too, can only solder/braze/weld once
Here you go, this should help out some.It is coming along quite nicely! I like how the engine fills out the space in the frame. Do you have any photos from above, front or back? How wide is the engine?
Yes it lives on and so far I haven't had to mod the original parts much, but I think I will have to cut on the rear fender some when I start installing the chain drive. Also need to make up my mind about the pedal crank on weather to heat it and bend it or replace with one of these.It does look good with the way the engine fills the space a it does. And a nice placement of the carburetor. Along with the fifties look of the engine it makes it look like it might have come that way originally. Your Dad's bike lives on... very cool.
SB
I know what you guys mean; but you can solder or braze more than once. That's one of the nice things about brazing bicycle frames. Put enough heat on the joint, and pull it apart. Just like you can un-sweat a soldered pipe.
Now welding, that's forever...
dracothered, you are putting a lot of work into your engine and it is starting to show. Looking good.
I've used a couple of those cranks. On one build I needed to use a smaller sprocket and had to modify one from a 24" bike (or maybe it was from a 20") and because it had a round hole i had to file it out to hexagonal to make it fit. Cranks seems to be well made.Yes it lives on and so far I haven't had to mod the original parts much, but I think I will have to cut on the rear fender some when I start installing the chain drive. Also need to make up my mind about the pedal crank on weather to heat it and bend it or replace with one of these.
Yes, that's it! And on the fender is a little L shaped bracket.Hey SB. The Schwinn springer has a clip that the pivot bolt slips through as you assemble it. The clip is similar to the rubber covered straps, but with no rubber and hardly shows. The fender bolts to the clip straight up in the middle of the goose neck bottom and then the fender braces holds the rest.
If it is attached to the bottom of the goose neck I would think this is a failure in the works because of the flexing that would happen.Yes, that's it! And on the fender is a little L shaped bracket.
SB
Yes I don't think the repro's are the same so bolting the fender on in the same way is not a good idea. Will use the pipe clips/hangers around the fork tubes bolted through the side of the fender.As I recall it was quite secure. The braces hold the fender and the aforementioned clip keeps the fender from rotating. I put a lot of miles on that bike. It is always good to check things, however. If doing it another way makes you feel safer, then go for it. It is your bike. The fender clip was good metal on the original springer fork (I know nothing of the newer reproductions)and the fenders were good metal, too. But if it were to rotate... disaster.
SB
The above quote is a PM between rustycase and me, now with what he said I believe I will get a steel fitting in place of the copper one. Don't want a failure if I can help it.rustycase
Re: failure walning
in reverse order...dracothered
If I am correct heating copper anneals it and the only way to harden it is by work hardening it either by pounding on it or bending it. Also I plan on silver soldering the pieces together (yes it is a form of brazing). So I don't see how it would crack and fail as you say. If you have a better idea please let us know.
Sure, I can offer a better idea! use steel tube!
The copper fitting itself will crack and fail. Not the silver solder joint. Engine vibration will cause it to harden, become brittle, and then, fail. No telling how long, and unexpected is a bad thing!
That is, unless you were intending to build a static display... Steampunk copper/brass looking engine parts look kool!
Please feel free to seek a second opinion!
I would, if I were you.
Best
rc
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My goal is cheap, reliable, personal transport, below the tax collector radar. Fun counts for a lot!
rustycase said:Yes, silver solder is an acceptable method for fastening steel. Fit and finish is important though.
Much more so than brazing.
IMO, brazing would be just fine, strength - wise.
and better to do all this in the open forum...
So others will volunteer a 2nd opinion, and, others will benefit from the discussion.
I like MABs!
More people should be running around on them!
...at least when it's an acceptable means of transport for what they need to get done !
Best
rc
Ah ok, so this clip goes to the pivot bolts on each side and goes down to the fender. Does it just clip the lip of each side of the fender or is it also bolted to the fender?That's why the fender attached to a clip on the pivot bolt, so it pivots with the forks.