It is coming along quite nicely! I like how the engine fills out the space in the frame. Do you have any photos from above, front or back? How wide is the engine?
58s Schwinn Wasp Build (My Dad's old bike)
- Thread starter dracothered
- Start date
I know what you guys mean; but you can solder or braze more than once. That's one of the nice things about brazing bicycle frames. Put enough heat on the joint, and pull it apart. Just like you can un-sweat a soldered pipe.Make sure you get it where you like it with the filter on too, can only solder/braze/weld once
Now welding, that's forever...
dracothered, you are putting a lot of work into your engine and it is starting to show. Looking good.
It does look good with the way the engine fills the space a it does. And a nice placement of the carburetor. Along with the fifties look of the engine it makes it look like it might have come that way originally. Your Dad's bike lives on... very cool.
SB
SB
Yes it lives on and so far I haven't had to mod the original parts much, but I think I will have to cut on the rear fender some when I start installing the chain drive. Also need to make up my mind about the pedal crank on weather to heat it and bend it or replace with one of these.
Front fender test fit...
Also as you can see the goose neck is now purple. I fits tighter than the one I was using.
Not sure if I want just two of the rubber covered straps or four of them holding the top of the fender to the fork tubes.
Also as you can see the goose neck is now purple. I fits tighter than the one I was using.
Not sure if I want just two of the rubber covered straps or four of them holding the top of the fender to the fork tubes.
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Welding in my case, I was able to remove it, but one half the parts destructed in the process as I cut and ground away.
The weld was a bead around the edge which was strong enough, and I thought I would just cut the edge away and start over. I wanted the part to be bolted to be movable for adjustment later I found out. The section type v-belt was going to be my adjustmet answer, but the links under too much force come apart or frayed.
I finally got it redone but most cases you probably are right, it is a done deal!
It may have been easier to start out with new part than to remove one of the welded. Hinhsight 20:20!
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=29678&page=7
MT
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I've used a couple of those cranks. On one build I needed to use a smaller sprocket and had to modify one from a 24" bike (or maybe it was from a 20") and because it had a round hole i had to file it out to hexagonal to make it fit. Cranks seems to be well made.Yes it lives on and so far I haven't had to mod the original parts much, but I think I will have to cut on the rear fender some when I start installing the chain drive. Also need to make up my mind about the pedal crank on weather to heat it and bend it or replace with one of these.
I'm trying to remember on my 53 Hornet which had a Schwinn springer fork how I held the fender in place. I'll look for some photos to remind myself.
SB
Hey SB. The Schwinn springer has a clip that the pivot bolt slips through as you assemble it. The clip is similar to the rubber covered straps, but with no rubber and hardly shows. The fender bolts to the clip straight up in the middle of the goose neck bottom and then the fender braces holds the rest.
If it is attached to the bottom of the goose neck I would think this is a failure in the works because of the flexing that would happen.
As I recall it was quite secure. The braces hold the fender and the aforementioned clip keeps the fender from rotating. I put a lot of miles on that bike. It is always good to check things, however. If doing it another way makes you feel safer, then go for it. It is your bike. The fender clip was good metal on the original springer fork (I know nothing of the newer reproductions)and the fenders were good metal, too. But if it were to rotate... disaster.
SB
SB
Yes I don't think the repro's are the same so bolting the fender on in the same way is not a good idea. Will use the pipe clips/hangers around the fork tubes bolted through the side of the fender.
The above quote is a PM between rustycase and me, now with what he said I believe I will get a steel fitting in place of the copper one. Don't want a failure if I can help it.rustycase
Re: failure walning
in reverse order...
Sure, I can offer a better idea! use steel tube!
The copper fitting itself will crack and fail. Not the silver solder joint. Engine vibration will cause it to harden, become brittle, and then, fail. No telling how long, and unexpected is a bad thing!
That is, unless you were intending to build a static display... Steampunk copper/brass looking engine parts look kool!
Please feel free to seek a second opinion!
I would, if I were you.
Best
rc
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My goal is cheap, reliable, personal transport, below the tax collector radar. Fun counts for a lot!
Save your money on those cranks, find someone with some torches and bring beer.
From the top view, you might have to bend one side out farther than the other anyways, eh?
Edit, hells yea, Rusty's a good guy.
Edit 2 - remember Wayne Z's cold bending bars? Those might be an option if you have the stock handy: Cold Bending Crank
From the top view, you might have to bend one side out farther than the other anyways, eh?
Edit, hells yea, Rusty's a good guy.
Edit 2 - remember Wayne Z's cold bending bars? Those might be an option if you have the stock handy: Cold Bending Crank
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Ah ok, so this clip goes to the pivot bolts on each side and goes down to the fender. Does it just clip the lip of each side of the fender or is it also bolted to the fender?
No, the clip is centered right over the fender. I think your springer is hollow up from the bottom of the steering tube. If it is, you can take the rubber off one of your clamps and bend the metal into a loop that will reach up into it and thread the pivot bolt through it. Make it ''L'' shaped to lye flat on the top of the fender. Then use a small bolt and nut to secure it to the fender. I'm just guessing your fender has a mounting hole in the top center.