This is my first post in regard to my DIY mating of a homelite wacker and a fully suspended xr-200 mongoose. Ive been reading through all of the posts with chainsaw and wacker friction drives and thought that this would be otimal for me. The whole project has cost me next to nothing except certain upgrades to the bike that were needed just for riding it eg: wider suspended seat- speedo- water bottle holder. Also added a homemade rear rack that was made out of brackets for a plasma screen tv that I found in the garbage.
Got the bike for free and was barely used. Its a wally world mongoose but it was better then walking 3 mph as compared to the avg speeg on the bike of 8 mph peddling up and down the hills.
Started out with the bike stock as it was bought from wally world. If I didnt know the bike assembly guy there I would have sent the store a crappy letter telling them that they need to start putting these things together right. wouldnt shift right, brakes rubbing and loose screws. The girl I got it off never rode it but twice and it sat in the garage for two years.
Anyhows... while out riding one day to get coffee..( my only means of tranport these days) I came accross a Homelite 26vt in the dumpster behind the local thift shop. whipped it out of the dumpster and bungeed it to the bike. went and got my coffee then after that was finished I started my 6 mile trek home up hills that are near 40 degree inclines.
Started looking up the best way to attach it. Looked at the GEBE kits and the bmp kits. Dont have that kind of money right now to put on though Id really like to get my hands on the GEBE sheave or a whizzer sheave. I also dont have any of my tools, My lathe, my welder ( thanks to the exwife.. cheaper to keep the wife imho and less painful.)
So I had to come up with a way to do all of this on no money, only the basic of handtools and whatever fasteners that I could come up with. The nearest Home Depot is about 7 miles away and thats also the nearest shopping center. Thought about how I could do this using just what I have. Thought for bout a week and then ureka. I used the curved shaft as my drive train with the bump head remover and a roller from my Elevator tech days onto it... Perfect match.. 26" wheel and 1.5" roller. I have a second Roller to shave down to 1.25 but I only just ran it for the first time today.
I ran the shaft on the inside of the frame using things like a 1" conduit strap, an eye bolt and a piece of steel to compress it to the side wall tire. I used the rear fork frame as the leverage. Im going to have to do more to make sure that the piece of steel for the leverage never comes loose or Ill have about a bagillion broken spokes and Road Rash.
I then Ran the shaft up trhough the deck of the rear rack simply by just drilling a hole in it.attached the eye bolt near the top and the motor sits at a 40 degree angle out the top.
This will also allow for ease of repowers to a bigger motor once I find one, allowed me to keep the clutch for just peddle power, Keeps the motor near center though a higher center of gravity. I expect that it will wear the side of my tire a bit until I can get the pressure just right as I will be trying cannonball2's method of a cheap roller found here at this thread: http://motorbicycling.com/f36/cheap-easy-drive-roller-29961.html .
First test ride went ok.. Had to peddle to get her going and reached a top speed of 20 mph on a slight incline, 38 on a down hill and that was still with the clutch having tons of grease and spilled oil/gas mix on it from the previous owner.
I still have to get the throttle hooked up ( No have no Idea where Im going to find a thumb throttle) , Kill switch ( want one like the jet skis where it has to have a key or plug in to keep it going incase i ever have to bail on it.) though all in all even for the first ride, 185 lbs rider, 45lbs of bike, 7lbs for rear rack, 8 Lbs of baggage and it kept me going at a stead 20 with tons of clutch slippage.
If anyone has any Ideas or thoughts of how I can improve on this then Please feel free.. Im here to learn and share whatever I can..
http://motorbicycling.com/images/smilies/xx.gif
Got the bike for free and was barely used. Its a wally world mongoose but it was better then walking 3 mph as compared to the avg speeg on the bike of 8 mph peddling up and down the hills.
Started out with the bike stock as it was bought from wally world. If I didnt know the bike assembly guy there I would have sent the store a crappy letter telling them that they need to start putting these things together right. wouldnt shift right, brakes rubbing and loose screws. The girl I got it off never rode it but twice and it sat in the garage for two years.
Anyhows... while out riding one day to get coffee..( my only means of tranport these days) I came accross a Homelite 26vt in the dumpster behind the local thift shop. whipped it out of the dumpster and bungeed it to the bike. went and got my coffee then after that was finished I started my 6 mile trek home up hills that are near 40 degree inclines.
Started looking up the best way to attach it. Looked at the GEBE kits and the bmp kits. Dont have that kind of money right now to put on though Id really like to get my hands on the GEBE sheave or a whizzer sheave. I also dont have any of my tools, My lathe, my welder ( thanks to the exwife.. cheaper to keep the wife imho and less painful.)
So I had to come up with a way to do all of this on no money, only the basic of handtools and whatever fasteners that I could come up with. The nearest Home Depot is about 7 miles away and thats also the nearest shopping center. Thought about how I could do this using just what I have. Thought for bout a week and then ureka. I used the curved shaft as my drive train with the bump head remover and a roller from my Elevator tech days onto it... Perfect match.. 26" wheel and 1.5" roller. I have a second Roller to shave down to 1.25 but I only just ran it for the first time today.
I ran the shaft on the inside of the frame using things like a 1" conduit strap, an eye bolt and a piece of steel to compress it to the side wall tire. I used the rear fork frame as the leverage. Im going to have to do more to make sure that the piece of steel for the leverage never comes loose or Ill have about a bagillion broken spokes and Road Rash.
I then Ran the shaft up trhough the deck of the rear rack simply by just drilling a hole in it.attached the eye bolt near the top and the motor sits at a 40 degree angle out the top.
This will also allow for ease of repowers to a bigger motor once I find one, allowed me to keep the clutch for just peddle power, Keeps the motor near center though a higher center of gravity. I expect that it will wear the side of my tire a bit until I can get the pressure just right as I will be trying cannonball2's method of a cheap roller found here at this thread: http://motorbicycling.com/f36/cheap-easy-drive-roller-29961.html .
First test ride went ok.. Had to peddle to get her going and reached a top speed of 20 mph on a slight incline, 38 on a down hill and that was still with the clutch having tons of grease and spilled oil/gas mix on it from the previous owner.
I still have to get the throttle hooked up ( No have no Idea where Im going to find a thumb throttle) , Kill switch ( want one like the jet skis where it has to have a key or plug in to keep it going incase i ever have to bail on it.) though all in all even for the first ride, 185 lbs rider, 45lbs of bike, 7lbs for rear rack, 8 Lbs of baggage and it kept me going at a stead 20 with tons of clutch slippage.
If anyone has any Ideas or thoughts of how I can improve on this then Please feel free.. Im here to learn and share whatever I can..
http://motorbicycling.com/images/smilies/xx.gif
