100:1 Mix

What if your new China Girl 66cc has not even been started yet. What would the ratio be for the initial start up and the first two tanks?

Tanks,
Don pedal pushin for now
 
It depends on the quality of the oil you use.
If you use cheap Oil for break in you can go with 16:1 or 20:1, I like 16:1 to start with.
Cheap oil after break in, around 20:1 or 25:1. Im at 400miles and im using 25:1.

Now if youre using more expensive oil you can go to 32:1,50:1,80:1.
but you would have to read the bottle to see what to use for breakin or someone else might know cause i dont use expensive oil.
 
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caprirs302 said:
Does a lower fuel oil ratio equal more power?
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Not exactly that simple. It will effectively raise your air/fuel ratio and raise the AKI, OTOH you won't have the same ring seal properties. A quick, simple answer would be "no".
 
if you go 50:1 or whatever for "break in" with synthetic don't expect the rings to set until 800 or so miles btw... just my experience with semi-synthetic 16:1 for 3 gallons... then switched to 16:1 regular 2 stroke 600~ miles my rings still aren't even set.

I ran the crap out of my motor too btw... BIG hills... the "synthetic" gives the illusion that your engine is actually broken in... it gives more power.. but with an actually "broken in" motor it would give wayy more power.
 
noobtard said:
if you go 50:1 or whatever for "break in" with synthetic don't expect the rings to set until 800 or so miles btw... just my experience with semi-synthetic 16:1 for 3 gallons... then switched to 16:1 regular 2 stroke 600~ miles my rings still aren't even set.

I ran the crap out of my motor too btw... BIG hills... the "synthetic" gives the illusion that your engine is actually broken in... it gives more power.. but with an actually "broken in" motor it would give wayy more power.
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So, what you are saying is that after a thousand miles on Amsoil at 50-1 from day one without any real "break in" period my engine is not yet broken in? If I understand correctly then the very best one could do with an engine is to break it in using regular two stroke oil for the prescribed number of miles at the mix ratio suggested by the manufacturer and then after break in switch to a really good synthetic. It seems to me that with all the confusion about oils, ratios, break in periods... that it would be good if there were agreement and a kind of consensus on what is a solid approach for a person new to one of these engines who wants for it to perform smoothly with power and last as long as possible.
Silverbear
 
noobtard said:
if you go 50:1 or whatever for "break in" with synthetic don't expect the rings to set until 800 or so miles btw... just my experience with semi-synthetic 16:1 for 3 gallons... then switched to 16:1 regular 2 stroke 600~ miles my rings still aren't even set.

I ran the crap out of my motor too btw... BIG hills... the "synthetic" gives the illusion that your engine is actually broken in... it gives more power.. but with an actually "broken in" motor it would give wayy more power.
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You had something else going on. What you feel or felt has nothing to do with the 2-stroke base oil composition.
 
Junster said:
So Pablo your the Amsoil guy, What mix are you running?
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Funny you should ask. I just mixed some fresh fuel yesterday - after the heat wave broke! I finally bought some fresh premium in my 2 gallon can. Last few tanks I haven't been all that precise, just mix and go with regular fuel and Dominator oil at about 25:1.

My slant head seems to be pinging, hence the premium (92 RON+MON/2 AKI)

My premix can to the line holds 1.25 gallons (160 fluid ounces), so sometimes I estimate 1 gallon, etc. This time I wanted a tight measurement, so I poured in about 1/2 gallon fuel in, added exactly one fl. oz. of fuel grade castor oil using the Mix Mizer, and mixed well. Then I added some more fuel, added exactly 4 oz of Amsoil Dominator and shook the can like crazy. Then I very carefully filled the premix can to the 1.25 gallon line.

So that's 5 oz of oil in 160 oz of gas. 32:1.

Bike goes very well, interestingly that the ping is still there - the main thing I notice with premium burning the smell is different combined with the castor and Dominator smell. More turpentiney. Not unpleasant, just different. But then again, maybe my castor oil is going to linseed oil rancid.

As for 100:1, well it's doable with Amsoil Saber - folks are running it now. But with these engines, I and Amsoil recommend 50:1-80:1. Funny, Amsoil was the first with 100:1 oil in 1973 and all the other companies laughed at them. Now some of these companies make 100:1 oil.
 
I'm running same mix as Pablo too. A touch of castor 1 oz per gallon works wonders for protecting your engine and offers very little buildup or varnish.

I'm running Sig Castor oil blended with Castrol 2 stroke oil. All smiles as I abuse my engines to extort maximum rpms with my slant head, shifter kit, and tuned pipe.
 
I only have 120km's on my 66cc and have gone to Opti-2 at 100:1. She runs great.
I would love to know how you can tell when your motor is run in? I would find that 800+ miles with a synthetic oil is drawing a long bow!!!!
 
Hey Ret you continue to be the pace setter and most innovated. You have me convinced me to convert to the latest thingee on the forum. 100 to ! mix sounds like that pill for women that reduce their periods to a couple a times a year. Your the best Ret thanks
 
I Use This Oil It's Awesome. I Just Broke In A New Motor Using Opti-2 This Motor Runs So Good, I Can Start My Bike By Just Walking It And Pop The Clutch And It Starts.
 
Hot Wheels said:
I Use This Oil It's Awesome. I Just Broke In A New Motor Using Opti-2 This Motor Runs So Good, I Can Start My Bike By Just Walking It And Pop The Clutch And It Starts.
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That is another thing I really notice the differance in now that I have switched all my bikes over to the Opti-2. They start so much quicker and no more warming up or using the chokes.
I am sold on the stuff now, after several hundred more miles on the bikes.

John
 
Okay. I've read enough and listened to enough so now I'm going to try John's oil. I picked up some Opti-2 today at the local rental company who happens to be a Toro dealer. The owner swears by Opti-2 and-4 and recommends it to his customers and uses it in all of his rental 2 and 4 stroke machines. He also told me that Opti-2 will add 2 years to a Toro engine warrantee. That means if Toro gives you 2 years on the engine, Opti-2 will add another 2 years to your warrantee if you use their product exclusively. That's a pretty strong testimonial. I'll mix up my first batch tonight and see how things work out. My fuel tanks are nearly empty so I'm going to drain them make the change cold turkey. I'll keep you posted.
Tom
 
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Tom, It took about 10 miles of riding before I really noticed my engine smooth out and run better. You should pull your plug and look at the top of your piston. See what color it is. Yours may be fine but one of my engines was a sticky black mess. After a 12 mile ride it had cleaned the top to a pretty gold color.
One thing you will probably notice is increased R.P.M. and speed at WOT. It will sound like the poor little Chinese engine is going to blow. I hope mine doesn't. 35 m.p.h. is waaaay to fast at our age.

John
 
John,
Yeah, I was going to look at some innards before switching so I'd have a baseline for caparison. I just checked the gaps on two of my plugs last week and they were a little dark for my pleasure but then they rarely see WOT. Sluggin' around at 1/2 throttle or less probably explains the dark plugs. Maybe I'll take the bikes out this weekend and blow some carbon out after I switch fuels. Not sure how much of that my nerves will stand but I'll give it a whirl. Now where'd I put that old Bell helmet I used to wear?
Tom
 
thats awesome ^ im thinking ill do the same thing but im still going to take the head off and oil up the cylinder walls with a nice coat of dino and put a ml or 2 in the crankcase. it wont last long in there but it should help a bit.
 
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