Curt believes in going big or staying home it seems lol.Back wheels for the trike your building?
Steve.
Tom, nice to hear that Mona is getting along good the support really helps in a crisis.Its a combo, the big one is like 3 jaw all 4 move at once, makes set a little fast. Then of coarse the individual jaw has it own. Little big for the lathe, but fits, we had a really hot humid day this spring, and even in the shop everything got rusty........Curt
I don't know, I've seen several builds with it on top and I am curious about the configuration. Here is a fella that has a buildFrom my experience it’s not for the top chain run as you said, it is to reduce the slack created by engine torque tightening the top run of chain. It will take a strong piece to withstand the pressure.
I mounted it once like that and I think you guys are right since the chain will tighten more so against the spring and idler.Dennis
That has suspension on the rear, can't be solid. When you put torque to it the top chain gets like a bow string, really tight. Would almost think it would bend or brake, otherwise......Curt
Yes, Rick I checked the chain tension and it takes more spring tension but then when power is taken off the engineYes Greg I've mounted both ways, and the bottom (return side) is far superior. Top mount puts extreme pressure on both the chain & tensioner. The tensioner that bolts on the chain stay (as many do) can twist under pressure into the spokes. OOwch! So why did I mount mine on the power side (top) rather than the return side? Just an attempt to keep the chain from rubbing/slapping the tire with power off...power on it just cleared, power off it rubbed. I eventually went to narrower tire and put the tensioner where it works best,,,but I've also seen nice bikes with the tensioner up top...hope they didn't later regret it or blame chain breaks on poor chain quality.
Rick C.
Thanks Tom!Nice tensioner Dennis, and you are right about price.
My vote is to mount on supply side.
Years ago I saw a California Highway Patrol newsreel from the early 50's that I wish I could find, but his one is pretty good. The one I remember had EL's in it.
Tom
Yes that's what happens Dennis and it's why I use a spring tensioner (instead of a fixed tensioner) on the bottom to take up that floppy chain on the return side. The spring type mounted on the bottom (chain stay) solves both issues with one tensioner and the type I use is less than $20. Because there is so little pressure placed on the spring tensioner mounted on the bottom it's practically impossible for the tension device, when adequately tightened, to pivot into the spokes.. So the spring type tensioner also takes care of a real safety issue as well. If the spring tensioner doesn't eliminate excess slack on the return side it's because it's spring is too weak to handle the size chain your using, but if that's the case it's a design issue at the factory. I use the motorcycle style tensioner not the ones made for 415 chain, but even these springs aren't very heavy....just enough. Photo of my hybrid shows two uses of the spring tensioner, both on the return side, the same style tensioner mounted in two different ways. First mounted to the motor housing of the CG to tension the motor chain and on the pedal side mounted to the chain stay.I mounted it once like that and I think you guys are right since the chain will tighten more so against the spring and idler.
Then, looking at it if mounting it like it should might take some fabrication on it to get it right.
Dennis
Yes, Rick I checked the chain tension and it takes more spring tension but then when power is taken off the engine
the bottom of the chain will want to flop around, bad for wear on it and the sprockets plus on alignment of the chain.
Dennis