You "Old Guys"! Whoops, I guess I should be quiet. Sorry. Carry on
Dan
Dan
My experience has been that chains do not like to go fast if they are not in an oil bath. Most people running a dry chain primary do not put the miles in. The people I have known that ran high miles with a minimum of drivetrain maintenance were guys with belt primaries. The best deal for a dry system is a belt primary. Much can be learned from lawnmower racers about high hp and v-belts. Also low tooth counts as found on most modern clutches absolutely kill chains in short order. I think a belt primary with clutch on the jack shaft like the whizzer is the way to go. Maintenance becomes easy unlike on the engine you must change the spring to get a smoother lockup. But on the jackshaft after an approx 1.4 reduction you can run a stock mt clutch and it will lockup at the right rpm for our needs and keep the bike slim; could even shorten the crankshaft.Dan, I have cooked #41 and #35, neither one has meat to bother with. My recipe has shown some degree of durability and no slinging. My machine has no chain guards. O-ring chain would be nice.
Tom from Rubicon
Have you ever rode a Sportsman Flyer Tony? Pat sets up the Bully clutches such that my bike "engine" brakes. I bought a EZ-Q and chose not to use it.My experience has been that chains do not like to go fast if they are not in an oil bath. Most people running a dry chain primary do not put the miles in. The people I have known that ran high miles with a minimum of drivetrain maintenance were guys with belt primaries. The best deal for a dry system is a belt primary. Much can be learned from lawnmower racers about high hp and v-belts. Also low tooth counts as found on most modern clutches absolutely kill chains in short order. I think a belt primary with clutch on the jack shaft like the whizzer is the way to go. Maintenance becomes easy unlike on the engine you must change the spring to get a smoother lockup. But on the jackshaft after an approx 1.4 reduction you can run a stock mt clutch and it will lockup at the right rpm for our needs and keep the bike slim; could even shorten the crankshaft.
similar thing happened to me but a piece of metal was stuck in my eye would not come out, after some thinking under duress I found a rubber glove a magnet for picking up bolts stuck the magnet in the rubber glove and rolled around my eye and like 16 shards of metal came out my eye. Good trick I learned.Speaking of safety I know a lot of people (me) are older and need glasses when working with machine tools, do you were regular glasses or safety glasses? I have bi-focal safety glasses at every tool that you should wear them at. That way I don't have an excuse to risk getting flying debris in my eyes. I have dodged a bullet twice in my life and not lost a eye doing stupid stuff, I was buffing exhaust valves when I was about 20, I took off my glasses because it was too hot. No more than five minutes later a piece of wire came off the wire wheel and stuck in my eye, I could see it between my pupil and nose. I ran to the restroom of the machine shop and looked in the mirror, the wire was sticking straight out. Being young and stupid ( I'm old now) I pulled it out. Lucky for me it didn't have a barb on the end, I had blurred vision for several day but no damage.
A face shield affords some protection along with glasses or safety glasses. I've had to have steel taken out of mysimilar thing happened to me but a piece of metal was stuck in my eye would not come out, after some thinking under duress I found a rubber glove a magnet for picking up bolts stuck the magnet in the rubber glove and rolled around my eye and like 16 shards of metal came out my eye. Good trick I learned. View attachment 101137