Motorized Bicycle Take a Tip...Leave a Tip

[agcat111]

Well, I am not into motor bikes, but I have come across a fabulous fuel additive that leaves less smoke, lubes engine a little, extends engine life, keeps the exhaust port clean, reduces pollution, gives more fuel mileage, extends engine life up to 100%, compensates for alcohol in fuel, and keeps the fuel from breaking down, really a find!

 

[Rudz]

Always have a spare magneto and cdi.

Use 3/16 or 5/32 tygon fuel lines, and always carry extra.

The filter in the tank is trash, replace the stock petcock, mine leaked.

Use an inline filter.

Carry a bicycle multi tool or kit.

Use thorn resistant tubes, liners or both.

Always carry a bicycle pump or 16 gram co2 inflater if your saving room.

Always charge your headlight - cree magicshine clones works great

Always have a rear light - Cygolite Hotshot is what I use

Use a mirror

DOT helmet, full face recommended

High visibility vest recommended

Always check fuel before a trip

Always check mounting bolts, Intake, exhuast, head and tensioner bolts.

Suspension seat will save your butt

Keep gloves in your tool bag, nobody likes showing up with grease and grime on your hands from a roadside fix.

Spare brake /clutch cables in your bag.

 

[GearNut]

That is a darn good list, Rudz!

 

[curtisfox]

Well, I am not into motor bikes, but I have come across a fabulous fuel additive that leaves less smoke, lubes engine a little, extends engine life, keeps the exhaust port clean, reduces pollution, gives more fuel mileage, extends engine life up to 100%, compensates for alcohol in fuel, and keeps the fuel from breaking down, really a find!

WHAT IS IT???????????????............Curt

 

[truckd]

Yha! what is the brand of oil mix you speak of ??????????????????????/

 

[Rudz]

That is a darn good list, Rudz!

I'm learning fast

 

[GearNut]

Well, I am not into motor bikes, but I have come across a fabulous fuel additive that leaves less smoke, lubes engine a little, extends engine life, keeps the exhaust port clean, reduces pollution, gives more fuel mileage, extends engine life up to 100%, compensates for alcohol in fuel, and keeps the fuel from breaking down, really a find!

Lubricious serpentine extract?

 

[Ludwig II]

Sold exclusively by Quacksalver Inc.?

 

[Rudz]

When making adjustments, always lock down parts when you're done.


Lost my clutch lever bolt. Lmfao

Somewhere within 8 miles of my house

 

[Rudz]

Conduit straps make great mounts for wide top tubes

 

[Jonda500]

I have realized that tightening the clutch flower nut increases the pressure on the clutch plates which is what I did after degreasing the clutch didn't stop it from slipping. However this means the push rod and ball bearing that sit under the sprocket cover need to be pushed further in before the clutch disengages- in my case the lever on the engine swung right around with out even touching the push rod -the solution is to grab a bit of steel rod the same size and cut a new slightly longer rod! (just file the ends flat and camfer off the corners a bit.)

 

[crassius]

be sure to check that the shaft didn't slip over to the clutch side of the motor (see if large gear & small gear are about even)

 

[Jonda500]

Err well the clutch doesn't slip when I try to start it any more but I do remember marveling at how poorly aligned the big and small gears were.. What holds the shaft from slipping over to the clutch side every time you pull the clutch in? -and how do I "unslip" the shaft so that the gears align again??

 

[crassius]

nothing really holds it except the tight fit of the bearings (until it moves so far that something bumps into something else)

I've seen engines that are not all that tight here, so a washer was added between the drive sprocket & the bearing to keep chain from chewing on the case & hold the clutch gears fairly even with each other.

I'd first try putting a socket on the clutch mounting nut & giving it a solid hit with a large hammer to see if it will move back toward the drive side - if it does, then keep checking that it doesn't drift back by itself over time (hopefully, it will stay where you put it).

 

[GearNut]

The flower nut is not what is responsible for how tightly the clutch pressure plate presses against the friction discs. That job is done by the clutch spring which is inside the engine cases.
The flower nut is there to allow for clutch adjustment as the friction pads wear. That said, the flower nut does need to be set correctly for proper operation before the clutch will function properly.

 

[Jonda500]

Thanks for the replys - helps to stop this thing from breaking my heart and hurting my brains!

mmm... err, ok then tightening the flower nut increases the preload on the clutch spring.

I took the clutch cover back off and it's my little gear that sits further out than the big gear -maybe I belted the clutch too hard getting it off when I replaced the clutch and bevel wheel as the old one wasn't spinning true(now I think maybe I just needed to file down the chuck key a bit to solve the problem!)

Any way she works now, the bevel wheel spins almost true & contacts the small gear across the full width of the gear teeth(but only just), and the clutch doesn't slip at all so I'm gonna stop playing with it and ride it!

 

[Jonda500]

Another thought- maybe my new clutch had slightly thinner friction bits than the original and that could be why to stop it slipping I had to tighten the flower nut tighter than it used to be and fit a longer pushrod to correct the resultant excessive clutch arm freeplay...

 

[Jumpa]

I'm not sure if this is on here or not but i was looking at some new locks or cables & chains They didn't have the length I wanted so I found some old chain I had laying around and decided to use it but was worried about the chain chipping the paint So I found an old 300C or 27" bicycle rubber tube cut out the valve stem and came up with this

 

[The Real Flying Dutchman]

My tip: In the formation stage - As received my kit gas tank has "stuff" in it (chunks, rust, dirt). Supposedly the carb and petcock have screens in them (according to eBay kit seller)....but they must be invisible. So on the way home today, I'm buying an inline see through fuel filter at the auto parts store. SHOULD work like a champ.

I just had a service call over in New Jersey. A guy had a brand new kit he received from E-bay... The damn thing wouldn't run so I put a new carb on for him but just as I did for ****s and giggles I said lets empty the gas tank see if there's crap in it. He said shouldn't be it's brand new. I said oh yeah? Two kits so far I found a partial mouse nest in one and I found a Chinese hair tie inside another with what appeared to of all things HAIR. This guys kit had the first mouse nest. I screwed the carb on and presto it ran. It took me 2 1/2 hours to remove the tank dry it with compressed air and brake cleaner from Auto Zone thank god the guy had an air compressor. The guy worked at an auto parts store he had an awesome scope of how to assemble the bike everything was good on his end of assembly it's just the mouse nest cost him as much as he paid for the kit. My service fees are not cheap but some people are willing to pay me anything to see what they did wrong. In his case he did nothing embarrassing or wrong

 

[MEASURE TWICE]

I've heard of an incident that some guy was scuba diving and his regulator stopped working while he was under water. Actually it was the valve on the air tank that had gotten plugged up. You see what happened was the person that assembled the valve on the neck of the air tank took the valve from a protective material that it was packaged in. The cardboard had created nice round cut out circle of cardboard and was hiding inside the tube that the valve has that sticks inside the tank when the valve is screwed on the top of the tank. It worked initially and so it was a go, that is until it got far enough pushed in to where it cut the air off.

Stuff where it should not be (moop) material out of place!

MT