72V 100A 60Ah 4.3kWh 10s24p 200lbs.....

[miked826]

Awe man now I gotta look over my shoulder for these LAPD robocops running as silent as I am? That actually looks like the rear sprocket on my bike. Bring it, LAPD. My tires are actually DOT certified, unlike their Off Road Only knobbies. LOL

"Equipped with the largest available battery pack, it bike will run for two hours. We’re sorry to report the police-spec MMX is not for sale to civilians, but play your cards right and you could end up racing one down the 405."

Racing up and down the 405? Play my cards right? How's this hand then?

http://www.wired.com/2014/06/lapd-zero-electric-motorcycles/

 

[cannonball2]

Thanks much. I know it's not gonna be much fun with those front forks but I just cant put normal suspension forks on there or I already would have. The forks need to be massively wide (6" or more between the fork legs) and that's gonna cost me dearly. I'll just get by with what I got for now until I can swap them out.

A year ago maybe there were NOS Suzuki A100 forks being sold for like $40. These were M/C forks and had as I remember something like a 6" spread. Cool thing was the bolted right in place of a standard 1" bike fork. I still have a new set some where. Might search around and see if there are any still available.

 

[miked826]

A year ago maybe there were NOS Suzuki A100 forks being sold for like $40. These were M/C forks and had as I remember something like a 6" spread. Cool thing was the bolted right in place of a standard 1" bike fork. I still have a new set some where. Might search around and see if there are any still available.

The triple tree crown I have now is from a 1978 Suzuki SP370 and it is exactly 5.5" wide with suspension-less tubes installed. I'm guessing I have to go much larger in size cause 370cc bike is just not big enough. The Suzuki A100 can't possibly be bigger than a Suzuki SP370.

 

[cannonball2]

Yep probably not, just remembered having to space a brake drum bike wheel quite a bit.

 

[miked826]

Yep probably not, just remembered having to space a brake drum bike wheel quite a bit.

Yet another issue I'm facing is the length of the shock absorbing fork lower and the distance from the bottom of my tree crown to my axle. It's extremely short and I need some space between the fork lower and the bottom of the tree crown for fork travel. It's at 13.5" from crown to axle right now. I'd like to keep the front end as low and level as I can, if it's at all possible, but I doubt it will be.

I'm going to have to replace the front hub with an actual front hub. The hub on there now is a rear hub and it is simply too wide.

 

[Goat Herder]

Mebbe email one of these venders that do machine work? Even some place locally Dunno? The Idea I am thinking is to get some sweet currant down hill Compititon forks perhaps, have custum upper and lower crowns made. Or get upper and lower crowns made for any fork for that matter. Just a thought?

 

[miked826]

Mebbe email one of these venders that do machine work? Even some place locally Dunno? The Idea I am thinking is to get some sweet currant down hill Compititon forks perhaps, have custum upper and lower crowns made. Or get upper and lower crowns made for any fork for that matter. Just a thought?

Thanks for the advice. I just need to get off my lazy rear end and replace that front hub with a normal width front hub. Which means I'll have to respoke the wheel. That would fix all my clearance problems and allow me to center the wheel and toss out the fork tubes I have now for some suspension fork tubes.

 

[miked826]

Mebbe email one of these venders that do machine work? Even some place locally Dunno? The Idea I am thinking is to get some sweet currant down hill Compititon forks perhaps, have custum upper and lower crowns made. Or get upper and lower crowns made for any fork for that matter. Just a thought?

I'm gonna buy some motorcycle suspension fork legs, then I'm gonna buy this DMR Revolver 20mm axle-less bicycle hub with built in sealed cartridge bearings. Then I'm gonna shove a 20mm motorcycle axle right through one fork leg, then through the hub and out the other fork leg. Half motorcycle, half bicycle. That's my plan.

 

[biknut]

What about these.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Marzocchi-S.../191218274417?pt=US_Forks&hash=item2c857f5071

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MARZOCCHI-B.../271523474981?pt=US_Forks&hash=item3f380f6e25

 

[miked826]

What about these.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Marzocchi-S.../191218274417?pt=US_Forks&hash=item2c857f5071

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MARZOCCHI-B.../271523474981?pt=US_Forks&hash=item3f380f6e25

My headtube is 2" in diameter with the same bearings to boot. It is full on motorcycle specification. The tires are 4 1/8" wide. I'm gonna have to have motorcycle fork legs shortened, a new 20mm DMR bicycle hub, 20mm motorcycle axle, and shorter 11 gauge spokes than what I have now. Then I'll be good. LOL

 

[miked826]

Oh lord, here come the LiPo batteries. Let me get my asbestos underwear out of the closet.

 

[miked826]

One 300A Shunt (bottom center) is now in place to prevent the Cycle Analyst from bursting into flames when I hit the gas. There is nothing more to connect, electrically, other than the main 2 battery cables coming from the ammo cans. That shunt was the last thing I needed to install up front. It will get sealed in Silicone at some point.

The Cycle Analyst is also connected and mounted dead center on the handlebars.

 

[biknut]

I would consider moving it from the side, to the top. I looks a little exposed in case of a tip over.

 

[miked826]

I would consider moving it from the side, to the top. I looks a little exposed in case of a tip over.

It would be exposed if not for the bikes pedal and/or crank which both stick out further than the shunt does.

That shunt has to hump that controller as close as it can get because the battery cables connect to both ends of the shunt and one end goes to the controller.

Those cables a 1/2" thick and I'm trying to hide them from view. As crazy as that sounds. LOL

 

[Easy Rider]

I have to agree with bikenut. I'm constantly leaning my bike against walls or galvanized poles that can temporarily keep my bike upright. The last thing you want to do is weld your bike to a pole or damage the terminals. Also my bike has tipped over a few times already so I know from experience.

 

[kevyleven007]

By the time he's done you wont even notice it.

 

[miked826]

I have to agree with bikenut. I'm constantly leaning my bike against walls or galvanized poles that can temporarily keep my bike upright. The last thing you want to do is weld your bike to a pole or damage the terminals. Also my bike has tipped over a few times already so I know from experience.

Actually it's only one electrode (-) that is attached on both ends of the shunt. The positive cable is buried in the top tube (to prevent unauthorized welding events from occuring).

The last time I tried to weld with only 1 electrode, it was actually quite unremarkable.

 

[miked826]

By the time he's done you wont even notice it.

It ain't easy dealing with 1/2" thick 1 AWG gauge cables. Those things are huge. I'm trying to keep their length and visibility to a absolute minimum.

 

[miked826]

Actually if the bike falls over the ammo cans protude the most followed very closely by the handlebars, even canted at their maximum angle, then the bike pedals and crank arms make up the last line of defense.

I can confidently say that it's physically impossible for that exposed shunt to make contact with anything if the bike falls over.

 

[biknut]

I like the way those big gauge wires look, and I like the way you ran them