"Squish Band"- Outer area of cylinder head that forces the unburned fuel/ air mixture into the center chamber for better combustion.
Glossary Of Motor Bicycle, bicycle parts and tools
- Thread starter Dan
- Start date
To make it easy to find what different terms mean or the common name for parts and tools, I thought we could do a community written glossary.
If your inclined, just add what you like with a description and I will add to the original post.
Will help new folks a great deal.
A. Ape Hangers- long handle bars that one reaches up to.
B.
Bucking bar and bearing
C. Chain Tensioner - A device used to adjust the chain tension.
CC = Cubic Centimeters, refers to the displacement of the engine
Compression tester..
CDI.
CVT = Continuously variable transmission. As engine speed increases the gear ration does too. Similar to an automatic transmission.
D.
E.
F.
G.
H. HT (Happy Time) Nick name for 2 stroke engine kit
I.
J.
K.
L.
M.
Magneto (Coil and Magnet)..
Multimeter.. http://www.cozypad.com/wp-content/uploads/multimeter_image.gif How to use
N.
O.
P.
Q.
R. Rag Joint - Used to attach the rear drive sprocket to the rear wheel.
S.
T. TDC and BDC = Top Dead Center, Bottom Dead Center. (refers to piston position and timing.)
U.
V.
W.
Woodruff key..A device with a flat top, flat sides, and a semi-circular curved bottom. Woodruff keys are used to assemble components on a shaft by fitting into a matching curved key slot. China girl has 4 keys. http://www.gemplers.com/images/pages/HC240.jpg
X.
Y.
Z.
*1 *2
If your inclined, just add what you like with a description and I will add to the original post.
Will help new folks a great deal.
A. Ape Hangers- long handle bars that one reaches up to.
B.
Bucking bar and bearing
C. Chain Tensioner - A device used to adjust the chain tension.
CC = Cubic Centimeters, refers to the displacement of the engine
Compression tester..
CDI.
CVT = Continuously variable transmission. As engine speed increases the gear ration does too. Similar to an automatic transmission.
D.
E.
F.
G.
H. HT (Happy Time) Nick name for 2 stroke engine kit
I.
J.
K.
L.
M.
Magneto (Coil and Magnet)..
Multimeter.. http://www.cozypad.com/wp-content/uploads/multimeter_image.gif How to use
N.
O.
P.
Q.
R. Rag Joint - Used to attach the rear drive sprocket to the rear wheel.
S.
T. TDC and BDC = Top Dead Center, Bottom Dead Center. (refers to piston position and timing.)
U.
V.
W.
Woodruff key..A device with a flat top, flat sides, and a semi-circular curved bottom. Woodruff keys are used to assemble components on a shaft by fitting into a matching curved key slot. China girl has 4 keys. http://www.gemplers.com/images/pages/HC240.jpg
X.
Y.
Z.
*1 *2
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I think it'd be a good idea to include the names of bike frame parts too, since we use them in reference to where things are mounted.
Head tube
Top tube
Down tube
Seat tube
Chain stays
Seat stays
Bottom bracket
Rear (and front) dropouts
- other terms may come to mind soon.
Head tube
Top tube
Down tube
Seat tube
Chain stays
Seat stays
Bottom bracket
Rear (and front) dropouts
- other terms may come to mind soon.
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W. WOT= Wide open throttle.
Wooddruff Key
Woodruff key..A device with a flat top, flat sides, and a semi-circular curved bottom. Woodruff keys are used to assemble components on a shaft by fitting into a matching curved key slot. China girl has 4 keys. http://www.gemplers.com/images/pages/HC240.jpg
X.
Y.
Z.
*1 *2
Wooddruff Key
Woodruff key..A device with a flat top, flat sides, and a semi-circular curved bottom. Woodruff keys are used to assemble components on a shaft by fitting into a matching curved key slot. China girl has 4 keys. http://www.gemplers.com/images/pages/HC240.jpg
X.
Y.
Z.
*1 *2
BGF,SBP. When I started here, I wondered what these letters should mean. There may be others.
I use no abbreviations.
True anecdote: When I was a kid, I should learn to play piano. That did not work somehow. More than one finger at the same time. So I learned typewriter. With the years it became a minimum of 250 characters per minute. So I do not use abbreviations.
Multipaul
I use no abbreviations.
True anecdote: When I was a kid, I should learn to play piano. That did not work somehow. More than one finger at the same time. So I learned typewriter. With the years it became a minimum of 250 characters per minute. So I do not use abbreviations.
Multipaul
Yeppers Youko, we are getting there. I kinda messed up and figured out what I was doing wrong so will be a little neater soon. LOL, I hope.
That was funny Paul.
Amazing the way the mind works. I picked up the piano like it was nothing and still type with only 3 fingers of either hand.
Just dawned on me. It was the acronyms that got me thinking about this years ago. A bunch of us were gonna do just this. I think we did 3 and sort of wondered away.
I am almost embarrassed. Was 2 years ago. Well, that is several decades in internet time. http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=23277
That was funny Paul.
Amazing the way the mind works. I picked up the piano like it was nothing and still type with only 3 fingers of either hand.
Just dawned on me. It was the acronyms that got me thinking about this years ago. A bunch of us were gonna do just this. I think we did 3 and sort of wondered away.
I am almost embarrassed. Was 2 years ago. Well, that is several decades in internet time. http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=23277
N- Nitrous kit- A bad idea, see also, darwin award, see also blown motor
D- Darwin Award- An award given out to the individuals who removed them selves from the gene pool in a way that promotes survival of the fittest.
B- Blown motor- A motor gone haywire, could be as simple as burnt rings or could be as bad as a motor reducing its self into its base elements around the proximity of your groin
D- Darwin Award- An award given out to the individuals who removed them selves from the gene pool in a way that promotes survival of the fittest.
B- Blown motor- A motor gone haywire, could be as simple as burnt rings or could be as bad as a motor reducing its self into its base elements around the proximity of your groin
"WOT is Wide Open Throttle
Gap: the distance between the electrode and ground on a spark plug, usually measured in hundredths of an inch.
Torque, here usually in reference to head nuts: the measure of tightness, measured in inch pounds (for these tiny motors) or foot pounds. 12 inch pounds = 1 foot pound.
Mix, referring to 2 cycle oil in fuel: 32:1 is 32 parts gasoline to one part oil, equivalent to four ounces of oil added to a gallon of gasoline.
TDC: Top Dead Center, the position of the piston when it is at the very highest point in the cylinder. Usually used in relation to ignition timing, but the 2 strokes have non-adjustable timing.
Four stroking: a 2 cycle is supposed to ignite on every piston up stroke. If the engine is too rich (too much fuel), it will fail to ignite one on stroke, then pre-ignite under compression on the following stroke, then not ignite, etc.
Mag: Magneto, the coil of wire inside which the magnet rotor turns, generating electricity.
Porting: the practice of carefully grinding the intake and exhaust ports and the intake pipe and exhaust header, so that the edges match. This makes for better flow, and thus more power."
^Nougat
" 'porting' is grinding the ports bigger, while "port matching" is grinding the ports to match."
^bairdco
Gap: the distance between the electrode and ground on a spark plug, usually measured in hundredths of an inch.
Torque, here usually in reference to head nuts: the measure of tightness, measured in inch pounds (for these tiny motors) or foot pounds. 12 inch pounds = 1 foot pound.
Mix, referring to 2 cycle oil in fuel: 32:1 is 32 parts gasoline to one part oil, equivalent to four ounces of oil added to a gallon of gasoline.
TDC: Top Dead Center, the position of the piston when it is at the very highest point in the cylinder. Usually used in relation to ignition timing, but the 2 strokes have non-adjustable timing.
Four stroking: a 2 cycle is supposed to ignite on every piston up stroke. If the engine is too rich (too much fuel), it will fail to ignite one on stroke, then pre-ignite under compression on the following stroke, then not ignite, etc.
Mag: Magneto, the coil of wire inside which the magnet rotor turns, generating electricity.
Porting: the practice of carefully grinding the intake and exhaust ports and the intake pipe and exhaust header, so that the edges match. This makes for better flow, and thus more power."
^Nougat
" 'porting' is grinding the ports bigger, while "port matching" is grinding the ports to match."
^bairdco
fubar Fouled up beyond all recognition
noob someone relatively new to the hobby I think...usually posts whines about how bad the cheap kits quality is...see also fubar as this is usually what they have done to their kits LOL
noob someone relatively new to the hobby I think...usually posts whines about how bad the cheap kits quality is...see also fubar as this is usually what they have done to their kits LOL
Anti seize a little goes a long ways! It will not be long before you figure out it got all over you and your surroundings lol.
Norm's section has most answers if you dig. These things are pretty simple devices once you read the troubleshooting steps. There is also a search tool at the top of the page when you go into any section of this site that is most usefull.
Head tube: this is where you should mount your handle bar stem, complete with appropriate bearings, washers, etc.
Handle bar stem: holds your handle bar in your desired, fixed position (if you remembered to tighten the clamping bolt). Otherwise, If you should happen to turn your handlebars, the bike may continue on its path toward that glass storefront window.
Top tube: spanning the distance from the head tube to the seat post, this is the tube your crotch will encounter should you suddenly slam on the brakes and slide off your seat.
Down tube: this spans the distance from the head tube to the bottom bracket, and is often too big for a front motor mount.
Seat tube: holds the seat post, unless you've built a board track replica; then it's just in the way up top.
Chain stays: these span the distance from the bottom bracket to the rear dropouts and the ends of the seat stays, and are the first thing a maladjusted drive chain will chew through. Thus leaving you to get a new frame or haggle with a professional welder.
Seat stays: span the distance from the seat post down to the rear dropouts. Often the first thing to break on a cheap bike, so I've read.
Bottom bracket: where the crank lives. And where you put the adapters when you discover you need an extra-wide crank after you've already mounted the engine.
Rear (and front) dropouts: are where you mount your wheels. They are so-named because, if you do not tighten down your wheel bolts correctly, your wheels will drop out.
Pedals: where you put your feet and what you push against to make the bike move. The left pedal is threaded for the left side of the crank. The right pedal is threaded for the right side. If you wish to amuse yourself, put them on wrong and watch them come unscrewed as you ride.
Crank: this is where you mount your pedals (on their correct sides, you daredevil!) and where the pedal sprocket is mounted. The stock cranks are sometimes too narrow to deal with motors. The stock pedal sprockets can get in the way sometimes too. You'd think they could build 'em with motors in mind.
Handle bar stem: holds your handle bar in your desired, fixed position (if you remembered to tighten the clamping bolt). Otherwise, If you should happen to turn your handlebars, the bike may continue on its path toward that glass storefront window.
Top tube: spanning the distance from the head tube to the seat post, this is the tube your crotch will encounter should you suddenly slam on the brakes and slide off your seat.
Down tube: this spans the distance from the head tube to the bottom bracket, and is often too big for a front motor mount.
Seat tube: holds the seat post, unless you've built a board track replica; then it's just in the way up top.
Chain stays: these span the distance from the bottom bracket to the rear dropouts and the ends of the seat stays, and are the first thing a maladjusted drive chain will chew through. Thus leaving you to get a new frame or haggle with a professional welder.
Seat stays: span the distance from the seat post down to the rear dropouts. Often the first thing to break on a cheap bike, so I've read.
Bottom bracket: where the crank lives. And where you put the adapters when you discover you need an extra-wide crank after you've already mounted the engine.
Rear (and front) dropouts: are where you mount your wheels. They are so-named because, if you do not tighten down your wheel bolts correctly, your wheels will drop out.
Pedals: where you put your feet and what you push against to make the bike move. The left pedal is threaded for the left side of the crank. The right pedal is threaded for the right side. If you wish to amuse yourself, put them on wrong and watch them come unscrewed as you ride.
Crank: this is where you mount your pedals (on their correct sides, you daredevil!) and where the pedal sprocket is mounted. The stock cranks are sometimes too narrow to deal with motors. The stock pedal sprockets can get in the way sometimes too. You'd think they could build 'em with motors in mind.
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I am so sorry I am behind on this. I will get on this ASAP.
A guy is forcing me to sue him and am working 14 hrs a day trying to get new contracts and building a work shop (which is on hold for town aprovel)
But is great of you guys to take the time to contribute. This will really help new folks and especially new members!
I mean it, thanks and I apologize for not being up to date.....
A guy is forcing me to sue him and am working 14 hrs a day trying to get new contracts and building a work shop (which is on hold for town aprovel)
But is great of you guys to take the time to contribute. This will really help new folks and especially new members!
I mean it, thanks and I apologize for not being up to date.....
Well that sucks, is the guy just a dick or what?
I didn't read through this whole topic of what was covered so far but I am in a jovial mood and have a minute to throw a few terms out I use.
Handlebar Grips:
The obnoxiously hard plastic things you are supposed to hold on to bike with and still expect to have a comfortable ride.
Anyone want some left sides? I have a bunch.
I cut the throttle side off too and put foam BMX grips on both sides of my builds.
3-Piece Cranks:
Meaningless for a direct drive build but important for Jackshaft build when the whole bottom bracket crank assembly needs to be replaced and the whole thing needs to come out.
1. First remove the cover over the crank arm mount and then get the exact right socket to get the crank arm retaining bolts or nuts out.
The right side is reverse thread.
2. Discover the crank arms won't just pull off because they are designed with a wedge fit. Beat arms with a hammer and discover they still won't budge. Buy the frigg'n 'Crank Arm Removal Tool' and ***** about it.
3. Go to remove the BB shaft and discover it needs it's own special tool as well and there is more than one size. Try beating it with a hammer and Primitive Pete screwdriver only to find that won't work either.
Buy the frigg'n 'Bottom Bracket Removal Tool' and ***** about it.
Primitive Pete Tool:
Usually a screwdriver or adjustable wrench, but in short it is any tool you mess up using it to pry or beat something rendering it useless for it's intended purpose.
I have 2 full sets of tools, the good stuff and the Petes.
I have a bunch more terms that will make you smile but out of time, I'll swing back by though ;-}