Glossary Of Motor Bicycle, bicycle parts and tools

[Dan]

Yeah KC Buddy, the former. Not the or "what part", lol.

It is exhausting and a major PINTA. Will be fine. I prolly will not see a cent but am gonna annoy him with all means possible and legal. Had him screaming the other day that as he declared bankruptcy, he does not have to pay me. He declared before we even met. Also dragging him to the labor dept. My goal is to cost him 3 times the $grand he owes me.

We made a deal and shook hands in front of God and every body and a deal is a deal....

Ah, sorry about the venting. Even the dog is tired of hearing this.

Big time, thanks for to post.

 

[Bill in Oregon]

I was hoping someone would define jackshaft ...

 

[Allen_Wrench]

I was hoping someone would define jackshaft ...

He's John Shaft's tougher brother.

(No he's not. Don't mind me; I just felt like being a wiseguy.)

It is a sort of in-line drive shaft where a gear at one end is driven by the engine and the shaft then transmits that power to a drive wheel courtesy of a gear at the other end.

 

[Bill in Oregon]

Thank you Mr.Wrench.

 

[KCvale]

I was hoping someone would define jackshaft ...

Actually I think the term Jackshaft comes from the mechanical means of 'Highjacking' a given motors output via a shaft to change the side and/or direction of the motors output.

In the case of motorized bikes that would be highjacking the left side counter clockwise turning motor output via a shaft and 2 sprockets over to the right side where your pedal cranks and reversing it to clockwise like your pedals so you can tie the two together.

Why? So your motor can use the bicycle drive chain and gears ;-}

If you have a clockwise spinning right side mount motor you don't need one, all you need is the freewheel pedal crank assembly and sprocket to hook it up.

Here are 2 examples.

This bike is a 4-stroke left side CC turning motor with a Jackshaft.

This bike is an electric right side clockwise turning motor that doesn't need to be 'highjacked'.

In both cases the bicycles fixed pedal cranks are replaced with freewheeling cranks.
It would be nice if you get a cheap 2-stroke MB motor that was like that electric then with the just the freewheel you would have a bike with just one drive chain from the pedal side.

 

[Bill in Oregon]

Here's another term that puzzles me: "white wire" referring to wiring electrical systems on bikes.

 

[bairdco]

2. Discover the crank arms won't just pull off because they are designed with a wedge fit. Beat arms with a hammer and discover they still won't budge. Buy the frigg'n 'Crank Arm Removal Tool' and ***** about it.

an easy way to get crank arms off without buying a tool or beating them with a hammer is this:

take the bolts off both sides, then pedal the bike to the store (or around the block.) 9 times outta 10 they'll loosen up and come off.

 

[bairdco]

i don't remember where i found this, but it's pretty funny. ya might have to enlarge it to read it all:

 

[KCvale]

Here's another term that puzzles me: "white wire" referring to wiring electrical systems on bikes.

Here is the magneto in a nutshell.

The top magneto wire (blue) is what connects to you Capacitor Discharge Ignition (CDI) module with the spark plug wire.

The bottom magneto wire (white) is just an auxiliary winding output.
The voltage varies by motor RPM but you can only pull about 750mA from it or the motor will die at idle.
That is enough for a couple of little 3V incandescent flashlight bulbs.

Please note that all your kill all button does is create a short circuit.

By connecting the kill button to the Aux white wire it causes such a magnetic draw from the spinning motor magnet it stalls and dies at idle, the same thing will happen trying to draw too much power from it for lights.

The manual says to wire the kill button to ground and the white wire, it don't matter which color wire from the switch, it is just a switch.

Personally I cut that bottom white wire off right at the magneto as I use kick butt Lithium Powered CREE lights and don't want anything drawing any of my precious motor power for anything but moving me, and just tie my kill button to the CDI wires, that doesn't just rely on motor drag to kill the motor, it shorts out the spark circuit as well.

Don't EVER think you can draw 'free power' from the white wire or even one of those secondary mags or even hub rubbing or internal hub gens they have, they are a drag on the motor and in short make your motor perform like you are always riding up hill. The more you draw, the steeper the hill.

* One exception to that is those internal hub magnetos that engage to act as a brake for storing all the kinetic energy you created with the bikes mass and velocity by charging a battery when you WANT a lot of drag to stop.

One other note is I actually cut off all the motors Mag wires and run a double insulated 16g wire pair directly soldered to to mag up to the CDI on all my builds, hence one other ascetic aspect as well as a slight performance enhancement, at least every mA the blue wire main winding power gets to the mag, which of course makes for a bit better spark, especially with an Iridium spark plug ;-}