Glossary Of Motor Bicycle, bicycle parts and tools

Discussion in 'Welcome to the World of Motorized Bicycles' started by Dan, Sep 12, 2010.

  1. Nougat

    Nougat New Member

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    @youknouno, et al: make sure you change it from "hundredths" to "thousandths" - the glaring error I made the first time I posted that.
     
  2. Allen_Wrench

    Allen_Wrench Resident Mad Scientist

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    Head tube: this is where you should mount your handle bar stem, complete with appropriate bearings, washers, etc.
    Handle bar stem: holds your handle bar in your desired, fixed position (if you remembered to tighten the clamping bolt). Otherwise, If you should happen to turn your handlebars, the bike may continue on its path toward that glass storefront window.
    Top tube: spanning the distance from the head tube to the seat post, this is the tube your crotch will encounter should you suddenly slam on the brakes and slide off your seat.
    Down tube: this spans the distance from the head tube to the bottom bracket, and is often too big for a front motor mount.
    Seat tube: holds the seat post, unless you've built a board track replica; then it's just in the way up top.
    Chain stays: these span the distance from the bottom bracket to the rear dropouts and the ends of the seat stays, and are the first thing a maladjusted drive chain will chew through. Thus leaving you to get a new frame or haggle with a professional welder.
    Seat stays: span the distance from the seat post down to the rear dropouts. Often the first thing to break on a cheap bike, so I've read.
    Bottom bracket: where the crank lives. And where you put the adapters when you discover you need an extra-wide crank after you've already mounted the engine.
    Rear (and front) dropouts: are where you mount your wheels. They are so-named because, if you do not tighten down your wheel bolts correctly, your wheels will drop out.
    Pedals: where you put your feet and what you push against to make the bike move. The left pedal is threaded for the left side of the crank. The right pedal is threaded for the right side. If you wish to amuse yourself, put them on wrong and watch them come unscrewed as you ride.
    Crank: this is where you mount your pedals (on their correct sides, you daredevil!) and where the pedal sprocket is mounted. The stock cranks are sometimes too narrow to deal with motors. The stock pedal sprockets can get in the way sometimes too. You'd think they could build 'em with motors in mind.
     
    #42 Allen_Wrench, Jul 1, 2012
    Last edited: Jul 1, 2012
  3. Dan

    Dan Staff
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    I am so sorry I am behind on this. I will get on this ASAP.

    A guy is forcing me to sue him and am working 14 hrs a day trying to get new contracts and building a work shop (which is on hold for town aprovel)

    But is great of you guys to take the time to contribute. This will really help new folks and especially new members!

    I mean it, thanks and I apologize for not being up to date.....
     
  4. KCvale

    KCvale Active Member

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    Well that sucks, is the guy just a dick or what?

    I didn't read through this whole topic of what was covered so far but I am in a jovial mood and have a minute to throw a few terms out I use.

    Handlebar Grips:
    The obnoxiously hard plastic things you are supposed to hold on to bike with and still expect to have a comfortable ride.
    Anyone want some left sides? I have a bunch.
    I cut the throttle side off too and put foam BMX grips on both sides of my builds.

    3-Piece Cranks:
    Meaningless for a direct drive build but important for Jackshaft build when the whole bottom bracket crank assembly needs to be replaced and the whole thing needs to come out.

    1. First remove the cover over the crank arm mount and then get the exact right socket to get the crank arm retaining bolts or nuts out.
    The right side is reverse thread.

    2. Discover the crank arms won't just pull off because they are designed with a wedge fit. Beat arms with a hammer and discover they still won't budge. Buy the frigg'n 'Crank Arm Removal Tool' and ***** about it.

    3. Go to remove the BB shaft and discover it needs it's own special tool as well and there is more than one size. Try beating it with a hammer and Primitive Pete screwdriver only to find that won't work either.
    Buy the frigg'n 'Bottom Bracket Removal Tool' and ***** about it.

    Primitive Pete Tool:
    Usually a screwdriver or adjustable wrench, but in short it is any tool you mess up using it to pry or beat something rendering it useless for it's intended purpose.
    I have 2 full sets of tools, the good stuff and the Petes.

    I have a bunch more terms that will make you smile but out of time, I'll swing back by though ;-}
     
  5. Dan

    Dan Staff
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    Yeah KC Buddy, the former. Not the or "what part", lol.

    It is exhausting and a major PINTA. Will be fine. I prolly will not see a cent but am gonna annoy him with all means possible and legal. Had him screaming the other day that as he declared bankruptcy, he does not have to pay me. He declared before we even met. Also dragging him to the labor dept. My goal is to cost him 3 times the $grand he owes me.

    We made a deal and shook hands in front of God and every body and a deal is a deal....

    Ah, sorry about the venting. Even the dog is tired of hearing this.

    Big time, thanks for to post.
     
  6. Bill in Oregon

    Bill in Oregon New Member

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    I was hoping someone would define jackshaft ...
     
  7. Allen_Wrench

    Allen_Wrench Resident Mad Scientist

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    He's John Shaft's tougher brother.

    (No he's not. Don't mind me; I just felt like being a wiseguy.)

    It is a sort of in-line drive shaft where a gear at one end is driven by the engine and the shaft then transmits that power to a drive wheel courtesy of a gear at the other end.
     
  8. Bill in Oregon

    Bill in Oregon New Member

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    Thank you Mr.Wrench.
     
  9. KCvale

    KCvale Active Member

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    Actually I think the term Jackshaft comes from the mechanical means of 'Highjacking' a given motors output via a shaft to change the side and/or direction of the motors output.

    In the case of motorized bikes that would be highjacking the left side counter clockwise turning motor output via a shaft and 2 sprockets over to the right side where your pedal cranks and reversing it to clockwise like your pedals so you can tie the two together.

    Why? So your motor can use the bicycle drive chain and gears ;-}

    If you have a clockwise spinning right side mount motor you don't need one, all you need is the freewheel pedal crank assembly and sprocket to hook it up.

    Here are 2 examples.

    This bike is a 4-stroke left side CC turning motor with a Jackshaft.

    [​IMG]

    This bike is an electric right side clockwise turning motor that doesn't need to be 'highjacked'.

    [​IMG]

    In both cases the bicycles fixed pedal cranks are replaced with freewheeling cranks.
    It would be nice if you get a cheap 2-stroke MB motor that was like that electric then with the just the freewheel you would have a bike with just one drive chain from the pedal side.
     
  10. Bill in Oregon

    Bill in Oregon New Member

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    Here's another term that puzzles me: "white wire" referring to wiring electrical systems on bikes.
     
  11. bairdco

    bairdco a guy who makes cool bikes

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    an easy way to get crank arms off without buying a tool or beating them with a hammer is this:

    take the bolts off both sides, then pedal the bike to the store (or around the block.) 9 times outta 10 they'll loosen up and come off.
     
  12. bairdco

    bairdco a guy who makes cool bikes

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    i don't remember where i found this, but it's pretty funny. ya might have to enlarge it to read it all:
     

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  13. KCvale

    KCvale Active Member

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    Here is the magneto in a nutshell.

    [​IMG]

    The top magneto wire (blue) is what connects to you Capacitor Discharge Ignition (CDI) module with the spark plug wire.

    The bottom magneto wire (white) is just an auxiliary winding output.
    The voltage varies by motor RPM but you can only pull about 750mA from it or the motor will die at idle.
    That is enough for a couple of little 3V incandescent flashlight bulbs.

    Please note that all your kill all button does is create a short circuit.

    By connecting the kill button to the Aux white wire it causes such a magnetic draw from the spinning motor magnet it stalls and dies at idle, the same thing will happen trying to draw too much power from it for lights.

    The manual says to wire the kill button to ground and the white wire, it don't matter which color wire from the switch, it is just a switch.

    Personally I cut that bottom white wire off right at the magneto as I use kick butt Lithium Powered CREE lights and don't want anything drawing any of my precious motor power for anything but moving me, and just tie my kill button to the CDI wires, that doesn't just rely on motor drag to kill the motor, it shorts out the spark circuit as well.

    Don't EVER think you can draw 'free power' from the white wire or even one of those secondary mags or even hub rubbing or internal hub gens they have, they are a drag on the motor and in short make your motor perform like you are always riding up hill. The more you draw, the steeper the hill.

    * One exception to that is those internal hub magnetos that engage to act as a brake for storing all the kinetic energy you created with the bikes mass and velocity by charging a battery when you WANT a lot of drag to stop.

    One other note is I actually cut off all the motors Mag wires and run a double insulated 16g wire pair directly soldered to to mag up to the CDI on all my builds, hence one other ascetic aspect as well as a slight performance enhancement, at least every mA the blue wire main winding power gets to the mag, which of course makes for a bit better spark, especially with an Iridium spark plug ;-}
     

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