2 stroke engine
- Thread starter Hoze513
- Start date
It's measured in ohms, I suggest you read the instructions that should of been supplied with the meter.
What is the symbol for ohms?
The symbol for ohms is the Greek capital letter omega. Omega is the last letter in the Greek alphabet and resembles the letter O with the bottom of it opened up and turned outwards. Ron's thread below is what you are looking for.
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=35090
The symbol for ohms is the Greek capital letter omega. Omega is the last letter in the Greek alphabet and resembles the letter O with the bottom of it opened up and turned outwards. Ron's thread below is what you are looking for.
http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=35090
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How to use a multimeter.
http://www.doctronics.co.uk/meter.htm
Testing values...
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1aBeJuoS--VQWwXysc07rpscTUbPzgc93xjiQBgsyFjc/edit
http://www.doctronics.co.uk/meter.htm
Testing values...
https://docs.google.com/document/d/1aBeJuoS--VQWwXysc07rpscTUbPzgc93xjiQBgsyFjc/edit
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Today I went to the auto parts store. And Got me a ( 7mm Spark plug wire) with a boot on both sides. So I Guess I will have to cut it down the middle. But now I will have to screw the tip back on the spark plug. Does anybody know if this will work or Iam wasting my time? Thanks
Yes, if it has a wire core. Most auto wires have a fiber core to cut down on interferance on the radio. Plus these small magneto systems need solid wire to supply as much spark a possible.
I don't know what it is. Or what to look for.
This is what is on the package : Hi Temp Silicone OMNIspark Spark Plug Lead. So Is that good to use?
More bad news for me. I can't use the Plug wire, I just got. I cut it in half and It's not the kind I can use.
I got some very good news and a little bad news. My bike started today, ran nice. For 5 minutes. Until the chain tensioner came lose. And the chain came off the sprocket and I lost my chain link. I guess my clutch was slipping thats way my engine wasn't starting. I felt like a big dummy.
Iam glad to know that my kit works. I will have pictures soon. Thank you everyone, with out you people, I would have never done this. Iam sure I will have more problems and questions. Thanks
Iam glad to know that my kit works. I will have pictures soon. Thank you everyone, with out you people, I would have never done this. Iam sure I will have more problems and questions. Thanks
Good to hear.
you aren't out of the woods yet though, keep on eye on those mounting bolts, they'll wiggle loose sooner or later.
I have a couple suggestions for the longevity of a china kit mab..
Blue thread locker. It's in a little tube. Just put a dab on your nuts and preferrably on your studs if you can unscrew them a little bit but I don't think necessary. The nuts are the important pieces.
The 2nd thing would be to get a $20 inch pound torque wrench that's capable of like 20-200 inch pounds. Loosen the head bolts a little then retorque them to a desired torque. Personally I did 96inchpounds for my 66cc. I've read somewhere that 170 is what should be done. there is no real torque spec for these as far as I know. Just personal speculation. While this would be a big no no for a car engine, I would say that as long as you match the torque on the 4 bolts you should be ok. I personally put some thread lock on my head bolts too.
The last thing and maybe the most important.. get rid of that tensioner!! Give it 10-30 miles and that thing will be in your spokes and destroy your wheel. Personally I run tensionerless. Some bikes can't do this. There's a number of methods available to make your own.
All my personal opinion. others may say otherwise. I've built 1 kit, thrown about half of it away so far.once I replaced certain parts with a quality parts I have had a great experience on my bike without things falling aPart.
you aren't out of the woods yet though, keep on eye on those mounting bolts, they'll wiggle loose sooner or later.
I have a couple suggestions for the longevity of a china kit mab..
Blue thread locker. It's in a little tube. Just put a dab on your nuts and preferrably on your studs if you can unscrew them a little bit but I don't think necessary. The nuts are the important pieces.
The 2nd thing would be to get a $20 inch pound torque wrench that's capable of like 20-200 inch pounds. Loosen the head bolts a little then retorque them to a desired torque. Personally I did 96inchpounds for my 66cc. I've read somewhere that 170 is what should be done. there is no real torque spec for these as far as I know. Just personal speculation. While this would be a big no no for a car engine, I would say that as long as you match the torque on the 4 bolts you should be ok. I personally put some thread lock on my head bolts too.
The last thing and maybe the most important.. get rid of that tensioner!! Give it 10-30 miles and that thing will be in your spokes and destroy your wheel. Personally I run tensionerless. Some bikes can't do this. There's a number of methods available to make your own.
All my personal opinion. others may say otherwise. I've built 1 kit, thrown about half of it away so far.once I replaced certain parts with a quality parts I have had a great experience on my bike without things falling aPart.
The problem with chain tensioners is they all come in one size, if it does not clamp to the frame well it will slip to the side. I have not had any problems on my bikes but both have large tubes so clamping was good. Some have mounted the tensioner from the down tube, upside down if you will. If you get those pics. posted i'm sure someone can point you in the right direction.
Ian Hawker sells case-mounted spring rollers for $50, US made. http://www.facebook.com/groups/359870172131/
It was my friend who came over and started for me. So he got to ride it first and last. I never got to ride it. That almost happen yesterday with my wheel. The chain was all in between spokes. But he was already stoping went that happen. Iam going out today to buy that link for the chain.
He has a motorize bike too, it's a 66cc stinger. With the speed or NT carburetor. And he said my bike went alot faster with that CNS crab, Than his bike. I was glad to hear that my bike was fast. Hopefully it will run for a long time. There is still thing I want to change, from the kit.
Iam waiting to barrow my sister's camera, so I can take some pictures. Thanks
He has a motorize bike too, it's a 66cc stinger. With the speed or NT carburetor. And he said my bike went alot faster with that CNS crab, Than his bike. I was glad to hear that my bike was fast. Hopefully it will run for a long time. There is still thing I want to change, from the kit.
Iam waiting to barrow my sister's camera, so I can take some pictures. Thanks
There are replacement intake tubes for the CNS carb, that don't need the white spacer. http://www.jnmotorsbikes.com/product_p/jnm1177.htm $20 fat intake straight tube
Today I got to ride my bike. And this thing goes really fast. Then I decided to adjust the two screws on the side of the carburetor and now it goes slower. I only got to ride the bike for five minutes, because I got really dizzy.
So what are those little screws for? Or how are they suppose to be? Thanks
So what are those little screws for? Or how are they suppose to be? Thanks
Check out this thread on the CNS carburetor : http://motorbicycling.com/showthread.php?t=30169
From what I just read, the two screws are the idle mixture adjustment screw and the idle speed screw (which sets the minimum throttle opening).
The first screw can be set when the engine is idling, you either turn it one way or the other in order to make the engine idle to the highest and then turn it 90 degrees one way or the other (the way that makes it more rich than lean). The reason behind this all is that the highest idle you can get by modifying the idle mixture would theoretically be the stoichiometric air/fuel ratio (Wikipedia could enlighten you up on that) but you do not want to run at this air/fuel ratio as it's not healthy for the engine for long term use. So, you must richen the mixture a bit by turning the screw one way or the other, for that I cannot tell you which way it is because it will depend on the carburetors : Some carburetor add fuel when you screw the screw in, making the mixture richer; Some carburetor add air when you screw the screw in, maxing the mixture leaner. This screw should be located closer to your air filter.
The other screw is simply the idle speed adjustment, feel free to set it up as you like. I put it a little high so that the engine does not stall when cold or when environmental factors change.
Please someone correct me about the CNS carburetor if I am wrong as I do not have hands on experience with this particular carb.
From what I just read, the two screws are the idle mixture adjustment screw and the idle speed screw (which sets the minimum throttle opening).
The first screw can be set when the engine is idling, you either turn it one way or the other in order to make the engine idle to the highest and then turn it 90 degrees one way or the other (the way that makes it more rich than lean). The reason behind this all is that the highest idle you can get by modifying the idle mixture would theoretically be the stoichiometric air/fuel ratio (Wikipedia could enlighten you up on that) but you do not want to run at this air/fuel ratio as it's not healthy for the engine for long term use. So, you must richen the mixture a bit by turning the screw one way or the other, for that I cannot tell you which way it is because it will depend on the carburetors : Some carburetor add fuel when you screw the screw in, making the mixture richer; Some carburetor add air when you screw the screw in, maxing the mixture leaner. This screw should be located closer to your air filter.
The other screw is simply the idle speed adjustment, feel free to set it up as you like. I put it a little high so that the engine does not stall when cold or when environmental factors change.
Please someone correct me about the CNS carburetor if I am wrong as I do not have hands on experience with this particular carb.
The screw next to the air filter is mixture, turn it in to lean the mixture. The other screw is for idle. The best adjustment I have found is first warm up the engine, now set the idle next adjust the mixture screw in or out til you get a smooth idle. On mine it idles a little high when cold but drops back when it warms up. Remember the screws are for idle, the e-clip adjusts mid range and the jet size controls wot.