2 stroke engine

You must have got a bad cdi from the start, poor quality control. I have rode 60 miles in one day, and about 700 miles on the same stock cdi.
 
yep the quality wasnt there. in fact I'm suprised that I got it that far for the longest trip it made and it's last. I'm going to be testing this CDI on the bike tonight and if it's successful I'll make shure I post up pics of the CDI I made.

Cheers and thanks for the reply
 
Today I put carburetor together and on the engine. I had to put the carburetor at a angle, because the wire hit the frame. Is that OK for now? Iam going to be working on it slow. And Iam sure I will have more question. .bld.
 
Hose513; It might not be! The carb is designed to be verticle to maintain the proper float level operation of the float in the float bowl. The test will be when you run the engine and it's performance. BMF
 
Hoze513 said:
So I might have to order one of those Z things. I Hope not. Thanks
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If the carburetor is on too much of a angle, it will let you know. You only need to level it out if...1) leaking fuel from the tickler or throat. 2) If the engine starves for fuel (float too low and not filling up fast enough).
 
There are some "shorty" sparkplugs too, like the ones that are used in chainsaws and weedwhackers; try some of these in your build just might give you the clearance that you need. BMF
 
Bicycle Motor Fun said:
There are some "shorty" sparkplugs too, like the ones that are used in chainsaws and weedwhackers; try some of these in your build just might give you the clearance that you need. BMF
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The spark plug is fine. I got plenty of room there. It just the two wires, that are coming from the carburetor at the top. That are hiting the top of the bike.
 
If you can twist the carb slightly to clear it should run ok,
just make sure the cables are not bent at a angle that might cause a stuck throttle.
 
Did you say 2 wires out of your carburator? And you got the "Jet" kit? That kit comes with an NT carburator so I'm wondering if you didn't get the kit you ordered. I suppose it could be well and fine but if you do have the carb with 2 wires then I think you have a CNS carb.

It doesn't have the best reputation. So if you have troubles getting the engine to run and you have checked for spark, it may be the first thing to replace.
 
Rocky_Motor said:
Did you say 2 wires out of your carburator? And you got the "Jet" kit? That kit comes with an NT carburator so I'm wondering if you didn't get the kit you ordered. I suppose it could be well and fine but if you do have the carb with 2 wires then I think you have a CNS carb.

It doesn't have the best reputation. So if you have troubles getting the engine to run and you have checked for spark, it may be the first thing to replace.
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Yes it is the CNS crab, and it came with the jet Kit for a extra $10.00. Well I hope it works
 
I think one or two people got it working after quite a lengthy trial and error. I can't find the thread, he wrote up how he did it but it's a large walkthrough. You can get the motor to run for sure but it'll either die at idle or puff out when trying to rev it. They're made to comply with epa regulations. Idk why they talk them up so much as performance carbs. Thatsdax sells a 10000x better one for 30 bucks
 
Well, I ran into problem, with the back sprocket that goes to the motor. Two of the nine bolts, are hiting on the spokes. And won't go in. The Two spokes are runing threw the middle of the hole.
So I might have to buy a different type of sprocket that connects to the back spokes. That sucks because my money is very limited. Does anybody know of where I can order one of these sprockets, for a fair price? Thanks
Or any other ideas of what else I can do?
 
I was working on the sprocket again. And this time I took the rubber piece out that is facing the outside of the rim. The sprocket was on straight, but I still got the problem of the missing bolts. So what Iam going to do now is use thinner bolts. I think that should work for now. I hope I don't have anymore problems. .weld
 
I've seen a build without that piece. I don't think you should do it, it is bound to put a less even strain on your spokes and the last thing you want is pulling spokes out. Just tedious to fix it and will have to take the sprocket off again..

Your two bolt missing problem is because your rear wheel isn't meant for that sprocket. You have a 32 spoke wheel where as you should have a 36 spoke wheel. I had this poblem too and opted to put it on a different bike, or I could have gotten a new wheel. I know that if you try hard enough you get it to have only one missing bolt. But if you can fit smaller bolts through, it's certainly better than none. The worst that can happen isthat when riding around, your sprocket will be pulled slightly off center and your chain will keep falling off. But if that does not happen then you should be golden. Doesn't hurt to try if you got the time
 
You should try to fit the rag joint between the sprocket and spokes, it serves two purposes to protect the spokes from wear due to metat to metal contact and to align the sprocket with the engine sprocket. I have a friend that built his without the rag joint, He ran it for awhile then decided to install it. When he removed the sprocket the spokes were worn flat from the friction.
 
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