The Rustoration Build Off

BarelyAWake · Jan 20, 2010

Hijacking? Not at all sportscarpat and you're experience is more than welcome (pics too ifn ya want). I was thinking much the same as what you stated, but I did wonder if "cheap" tanks were available (fiberglass via mold) if that would have an effect on demand as I'm sure there are a few folks out there that would build boardtrackers/vintage/reproduction bikes were that one hurdle overcome.

I just can't see the metal tanks being anything other than comparatively "expensive" for the reasons above unfortunately.

I do know that one of the very few things that prevented me from a Worksman build instead of the Rollfast was simply the need to fabricate a tank. In my own twisted logic I figured if I'm gonna be making a custom tank - I might as well restore an actual vintage bicycle from scratch, warranting the effort of a tank with such a "unique" build. Yet had there been a tank available for the Worksman (an admittedly superior bike), I would have gone that route without hesitation. In the end - the cash investment is surprisingly similar, the Rollfast simply far more labor.

I'm actually somewhat surprised that with all the enterprising souls we have hereabouts that a 'glass tank isn't available, it's really far easier to make than the steel variant and ofc compound curves are a nonissue. This is my only regret with the Rollfast, were it a current production bike - I'd kick out a mold just to play around with *shrug*

Still... no - I really do like my Rollfast lol

silverbear · Jan 20, 2010

BarelyAWake,
Thanks for the tips on the fender work and also for giving detailed photos and tips on the detail painting. I'll be referring back to both sets of information as I go. I'm kind of in a holding pattern at the moment with other obligations for my employer, but am anxious to get the fenders and guards done so that I'm ready for the warm weather days which are bound to come here and there within a month. I've also been doing some clean up work on that other Elgin (38) which will stay pretty close to original with just those modifications needed to make it motorized... but nothing which essentially changes the bike in any way that can't be reversed. I'd like to keep the skip tooth crank and rear wheel. But that's another subject best left until the 39 build is finished. The days are noticeably longer, Grandfather Sun (who looked like a goner there for awhile) is gathering strength, and I'm getting itchy for riding a motorbicycle again. Come on Spring!
The discussion on in frame tanks is very much of interest and I'm also glad for Pat's comments. He is an accomplished builder and his tanks are super. I'm fortunate to have purchased his prototype motorbike tank for my 50 Schwinn back in Minnesota which is hopefully going to be sold this summer. It is a wonderful tank. I think having both a custom steel tank and a fiberglass molded tank for the Worksman paperboy bikes would be terrific. For good reason the steel tanks are expensive and not everyone can afford one, so having a less expensive option available would be helpful to builders on a tighter budget. The Worksman bikes are great candidates for motors and are going to continue being around for a very long time, both used and new. So in my mind if Pat had the stainless steel ultimate tanks available and Barely had the glass tanks for sale... we'd all benefit and so would Worksman, an American tradition. I hope you guys do it.
SB

mekano · Jan 20, 2010

Just to show I'm actually still on this thread: TELLUS: Sprocket fitted and monuted on new fat rear wheel, found a kit gas tank as a temporarily solution, my soldering has been a failure. Must have anti-oxidant solution. Removed the rack, made it look real raw! Thumb throttle regulator in the making. Almost complete now.

silverbear · Jan 20, 2010

mekano said:
Just to show I'm actually still on this thread: TELLUS: Sprocket fitted and monuted on new fat rear wheel, found a kit gas tank as a temporarily solution, my soldering has been a failure. Must have anti-oxidant solution. Removed the rack, made it look real raw! Thumb throttle regulator in the making. Almost complete now.

Mekano,
I'm no expert on soldering but have found that silver solder (no lead) and the flux made for using silver solder did the trick. Also, too much heat is as bad as too little. Patience, my friend. Looking forward to a picture...
SB

BarelyAWake · Jan 21, 2010

mekano said:
Just to show I'm actually still on this thread: TELLUS: Sprocket fitted and monuted on new fat rear wheel, found a kit gas tank as a temporarily solution, my soldering has been a failure. Must have anti-oxidant solution. Removed the rack, made it look real raw! Thumb throttle regulator in the making. Almost complete now.

I agree completely with silverbear - pics plox

bairdco · Jan 22, 2010

haven't posted any pics of my bike in awhile, but i did a couple things to it.

added an ammo can "saddlebag." just drilled a hole and mounted it to my axle and used a chain tensioner bracket (those things sure come in handy) and some rubber around the seat stay. no rattles, hasn't loosened up at all, and i can store my U lock and stuff in it. and it makes a good license plate frame.

also painted the clutch and magneto covers to match.

and made a better heat shield / shoe saver.

i think that's all i did. mostly i've just been riding the heck outta it, when it's not raining...

i've got some big plans for my next bike, if UPS can manage to get me all the parts.

(edit) looking at the pics, i also re-routed the cables through the gas tank clamps so there's no zip-ties anywhere, and made a little plug wire keeper on the air filter

Mac · Jan 22, 2010

Bairdco,
How 'bout a picture of how you mounted the Ammo can.

bairdco · Jan 22, 2010

no prob...

first off, make sure you line it up right, so you won't hit it when you pedal, and that it'll open without hitting your seat, or whatever.

i drilled a hole for the axle and mounted it with another nut, so it's not using the same nut that's holding my wheel on.

then i lined it up and marked it for the bracket around the seat stay, took it back off, drilled it, then put it all together with a chain tensioner clamp.

i just used some innertube and a rubber grommet around the seat stay for now, but i'll probably use a skateboard bushing cut to fit perfect and clean it up. i just gotta find one in my box-o-crap.

silverbear · Jan 22, 2010

Bairdco,
Your bike keeps looking better as you tweak this and that. I hope your "new" Colson finally got to you. Post pictures when you get a chance, eh? I gave one of the 39 Elgin fender skirts a final coat of paint today and tomorrow expect to have the front fender and other skirt guard painted and ready to mount once they've cured a bit. The rear fender still needs a little more sanding and filling, but not a whole lot. I wanted to thank you for the tips on straightening the fender stay. I worked on the mangled one and it now looks better that the "good" one. I never would have guessed it could be saved like that. So pretty soon they'll be ready for paint and then it will all be together, pretty much ready to ride once the weather warms up some. I've also been working a little on cleaning up that 38 Elgin I picked up last month on Ebay. It will stay as original as I can keep it. I'll post photos of the 39 once it's all together, in a week or so. It's been fun...
SB

bairdco · Jan 23, 2010

my other colson's still in limbo. i'll get it next week some time.

glad to here the fenders worked out for you. everytime i see a not-so-mangled set like them on ebay, i wonder why the heck anyone would go through all the trouble that you did, but then i remember, that's just the way we do stuff sometimes...

BarelyAWake · Jan 25, 2010

lol - speakin' of "limbo" for whatever reason I needed to take a break from the Rollfast *shrug* Waitin' on some parts and not particularly impressed with the fuel fill & cap I had for the tank, I jus' kinda set it aside for a while. I've learned the hard way to not push myself on a project when I'm not "feelin' it" as that's when I'll cut corners that I really shouldn't heh

Still, it's just too close to the welding stage so I don't want to delay it too long, it is after all the last major hurdle to overcome with this project. I decided this cap is "good 'nuff" for three reasons, the alternates are all buried in two to three feet of snow, it's as big as I can fit (ease of filling), and last but not least - I just want to get the thing welded lol

So, I've got all the backings made and holes cut except the mounts, I forgot those at work so I dunno the hole spacing. That'll only take a minute to take care of tho...

So now I set all the panels on a shelf and wait for my buddy to get some time *crosses fingers*

Other than that - I'm jus' waitin' on the blasted UPS truck. I've got a set of new ducktail fenders, base gasket, CNS carb, and a dropstand coming. I decided against the Dellorto carb for the time being as I just don't feel like messing with jetting just yet and as the Schwinn needs a new carb anyway. I figured if I upgrade later - it'll get the CNS as a "hand me down" heh, not to mention I jus' wanna check it out.

The dropstand is a shot in the dark, I haven't the slightest idea if it'll even come close to fitting what with all the stuff I've got stickin' outa my dropouts - the three speed & the drum brake mechanicals make for a crowded axle lol Still - it was only twenty bucks and it'll give me somthin' to mess with *shrug*

/waits

edit: OMG silverbear - I completely spaced askin' about part numbers for those lil brass fittings!

Sorry man, I'll defo remember this time as I'll be bringin' the tank in anyway... meh, I'm sucha cadet sometimes

silverbear · Jan 25, 2010

BarelyAWake said:
lol - speakin' of "limbo" for whatever reason I needed to take a break from the Rollfast *shrug* Waitin' on some parts and not particularly impressed with the fuel fill & cap I had for the tank, I jus' kinda set it aside for a while. I've learned the hard way to not push myself on a project when I'm not "feelin' it" as that's when I'll cut corners that I really shouldn't heh

Still, it's just too close to the welding stage so I don't want to delay it too long, it is after all the last major hurdle to overcome with this project. I decided this cap is "good 'nuff" for three reasons, the alternates are all buried in two to three feet of snow, it's as big as I can fit (ease of filling), and last but not least - I just want to get the thing welded lol

So, I've got all the backings made and holes cut except the mounts, I forgot those at work so I dunno the hole spacing. That'll only take a minute to take care of tho...

So now I set all the panels on a shelf and wait for my buddy to get some time *crosses fingers*

Other than that - I'm jus' waitin' on the blasted UPS truck. I've got a set of new ducktail fenders, base gasket, CNS carb, and a dropstand coming. I decided against the Dellorto carb for the time being as I just don't feel like messing with jetting just yet and as the Schwinn needs a new carb anyway. I figured if I upgrade later - it'll get the CNS as a "hand me down" heh, not to mention I jus' wanna check it out.

The dropstand is a shot in the dark, I haven't the slightest idea if it'll even come close to fitting what with all the stuff I've got stickin' outa my dropouts - the three speed & the drum brake mechanicals make for a crowded axle lol Still - it was only twenty bucks and it'll give me somthin' to mess with *shrug*

/waits

edit: OMG silverbear - I completely spaced askin' about part numbers for those lil brass fittings!

Sorry man, I'll defo remember this time as I'll be bringin' the tank in anyway... meh, I'm sucha cadet sometimes

Hey Barely,
It sounds like this party is about over for you and me... not yet, for sure, but first light is comin'. No problem on the brass fittings since I'm broke at the moment anyway.
Waiting for Santa Claus to come again, eh? It's always cool opening up a package to see in person what we asked for. Your cap and filler tube are fine. Brass would be cool but expensive unless you're using the little 3/4 inch hardware store fittings like me. Using some 'found' stuff helps keep things in perspective (like my juice can gas tank). There's such a temptation to spend money we don't have on these things. I'm very much looking forward to seeing your tank done and in place, almost as much as you are. What an accomplishment!
I have come close to calling it quits (done) on the guards and fenders. I'm pleased with the chain and skirt guards. Another coat of deep blue and they can be mounted. If there weren't a monsoon outside I'd shoot them today. The front fender is respectable looking, not perfect for sure, but looks good enough. The back one is going to get a little more effort, but not much. It is still a disappointment. If I were to do this again, and no doubt I will since I really like this model of Elgin as a motorbicycle, I would not try to resurrect a fender so damaged. The amount of time and effort vs. the results is simply not worth it. I will keep watch for a replacement fender and sometime later will swap the better one. Having made that decision has made it easier to bring this build to closure. I suspect that if I hadn't made a kind of public declaration of intent long ago in this build off I would have chucked that fender early on. But, I said I was going to fix it and sorta did. I chalk it up to part of my motorbicycle education. In another week or two, weather depending, I'll post photos of the finished build. Maybe yours will be close to being done by then, too. It sounds like it might. This sure has been fun, Bud!
SB

fasteddy · Jan 25, 2010

Funny thing you guys should mention limbo. If my bar was any lower I'd be standing on it.
Interior is in the sidecar and I surprised myself and it came out pretty good. Will have photos as soon as we get a sunny break {May/June}.

As I told Silver Bear, I've been up to look at a metal chop saw twice now but just can't bring my self to pay the $180 plus tax. Did however break loose $10 bucks for some top of the line hack saw blades. I'm going though 11/4" heavy wall square tubing so the chop saw may look cheap in the end or rather long before the end.

Talked to the fella in England who has the Watsonian sidecar that started this moment of madness and he is going to supply me with measurements for some of his collection as well as pictures. Another shovel full of coal on the H-ll Fires of the unstable mind.

Steve.

weekend-fun · Jan 25, 2010

sorry i havent been able to relpy for the last few weeks... bust with school and stuff
I have two words to update my bike: "CLEARANCE PROBLEMS" lol the peadls hit the motor so i dont know what to do... is there a stable method for raising the engine?

silverbear · Jan 25, 2010

weekend-fun said:
sorry i havent been able to relpy for the last few weeks... bust with school and stuff
I have two words to update my bike: "CLEARANCE PROBLEMS" lol the peadls hit the motor so i dont know what to do... is there a stable method for raising the engine?

I can't give you much of an answer on how raise your motor more in a stable way. Pictures of the problem would be helpful. As I see it there are three options. One is a crank with a shorter arm. Another is a wider crank. Third, and the option I like the least is to raise the engine higher. Raising the engine means the center of gravity is higher and also it probably means that your motor doesn't fit into the frame as snugly. If I remember right you couldn't get the pedals off and thus couldn't remove the crank assembly, so without removing it you only have the option of raising the motor. If it were me I'd still remove the crank even if it meant cutting off the pedal with a torch or hacksaw and replacing the pedal arm. Somebody else may have better advise for you.
SB

bairdco · Jan 26, 2010

bend it. i assume the crank hits on the clutch actuator housing, and if it stuck out just a 1/4" more, it would clear, right?

take the cranks off (i know, you had problems doing that before, but it's gotta be done) and if you don't have a vice, find somewhere to wedge the pedal side crank into, like in a crack in a brickwall, or a trailer hitch, or something...

then take a big piece of pipe and stick it over the non-pedal side crank, and tweak it a little. old one piece cranks are cold forged, so you don't need to heat it. trust me, it's easy.

you don't want to do it too much, or it throws the pedals out of whack, and feels funny, but just enough to clear the motor will be fine. i usually figure out how much clearance i need, then lay the crank on a piece of cardboard and trace it. then after you bend it a little, you can lay it back down and see how much it moved.

i keep thinking i'll make a video of this, but i just haven't got around to it...

fasteddy · Jan 26, 2010

Job is almost done but I did seriously think about going and buying the chop saw. The more I sawed the cheaper it got.
What was fun 30 years ago isn't quite so funny today.

Have the sidecar frame ready to weld now so I'll take lots of pictures before it's welded and get them on the next few days. Tomorrows dentist day so that may not be the day.
I've made it so it can be adjusted to square the sidecar wheel to the bike or extend it out farther if you choose to use it on another bike with wider crank.

Bought every thing at Home Depot so that finding parts won't be hard. A good hardware will have every thing as well.

Steve.

weekend-fun · Jan 26, 2010

Thanks for the help. I think I will cut it off and maybe find a new set of cranks. But i like baird's idea.
thanks
WF

mekano · Jan 26, 2010

NOooooo..! (epic soundtrack) The hockey puck solution will help you to easily put yer motor higher up if you have clearance problems !
http://motorbicycling.com/f6/2-front-mount-fix-cruiser-frames-11736.html

fasteddy · Jan 27, 2010

Posted the latest photos of the sidecar on the sidecar thread.

Steve.

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