YD100 anybody got one?

[cannonball2]

Probably so Greg!

Here’s the YD and the pipe I run. It’s the $40 Zeda with a stock gutted muffler welded to it via Greg58s advice. This pipe does not run well as is needs back pressure of some sort. The muffler is a good way to go and is quiet too. Is very tolerant of the small stinger pipe which is there to get oil away from the bike, thing on the end is a deflector.

So I feel this ride is fully developed for a daily rider, pulls like a freight train from lugging along at 10 to a top of 38. Before the timing it hit a wall around 34. This is the most pleasant and useful bike to date. Now waiting on a Runwell PK to replace an older CG on another build. We will see how they are soon.

 

[Greg58]

That pipe design works well on mine also, the large stinger purges too much from the cylinder with the jetting I’m running, the muffler add on helped greatly.

 

[kaneto]

....
What I did find was the stud spacing on the jug is larger almost to the point the Stihl jug could be fitted...

That's because the jug is a knockoff of an old Stihl jug.

 

[cannonball2]

Not exactly a knock off as the ports are decidedly for CG configuration. The bigger Stihls usually run a rubber connector at the carb. This has been purpose built for the bike engines as the intake and exhaust ports are in the same basic locations/configurations. They may have pirated the jugs design in principle. What ever it is it’s a great runner!

 

[cannonball2]

https://yzfeima.en.alibaba.com/prod...pm=a2700.icbuShop.maes88c8c1.6.3802372aHk4F6H

Anybody running one of these?

 

[curtisfox]

That looks like a good one, cheap enough............Curt

 

[Greg58]

If you’ll buy 100 I’ll take 2! Then 98 to do what you want with.

 

[Ralph hop]

https://yzfeima.en.alibaba.com/prod...pm=a2700.icbuShop.maes88c8c1.6.3802372aHk4F6H

Anybody running one of these?

I am. It runs good I think.

 

[Ralph hop]

The one I have doesn't have the big reliefs cut in the cylinder with the fins inside but it's 2018 casting, comes with good hardware, cleaner looking cast than that one from alibaba. Motoos from amazon is where I found it, and it came with a nice kit. Nothing has broken yet and it has a good mid range power with a 38t and a 24" wheel.

 

[waynesdata]

Looking at the design seems like fins should be added to top area

 

[cannonball2]

If you’ll buy 100 I’ll take 2! Then 98 to do what you want with.

No deal, then I would have to build 98 more bikes!

I bought one of these a few months back and just got around to thinking about a project for it. Mine has the Flying Horse emblem and 2018 cast into the cylinder. Casting is very good. Was thinking of replacing an ancient Flying Horse on a very old bike I had and just wondered how they ran. Don’t remember seeing a build with one. Glad to hear they seem good. The old FH was a vibrator but ran on for years(still does).

 

[Greg58]

It’s funny how things work out sometimes, the 24” bike I put together with spare parts and my oldest engine is probably the most fun to ride and the fastest 48cc.

 

[Ralph hop]

Greg, I've learned to keep anything that can be used later, kept a broken wratchet drive
today because I like the handle on it. Cannonball, been watching this thread because of a 212 I have on the shelf but I'm considering a bike engine like the yd100 instead.

 

[cannonball2]

Funny I have. 212 and a torque converter also on the shelf waiting for some inspiration. Ive been fooling with CGs for years waiting on a really decent one. If all the YDs run like mine I think we have finally arrived.

 

[zean]

Say, would you know of any reason (like differences in timing) why a magneto, magnet and cdi from a standard 66cc china girl engine could not be interchanged with those off the YD100? Thank you for this insightful thread on the YD100.

 

[cannonball2]

I’m pretty sure the rotor and coil would fit. From what I have read the ignition should be used as a matched set including the CDI unit. There are some differences in key size amongst the different engines out there as well as some different key way positions in the rotor. Mixing the different CDI units can cause some running issues due to different electrical valves among the components. Grubee has a very good explanation of the ignition system and the differences on their information pages on their website. They explain carbs well also. The good thing about Grubee is they sell you known products versus buying from suppliers the aren’t sure exactly what they have.

 

[cannonball2]

The Grubee ignition is the TZ version, is sold as a matched set for $20. That’s the one to have. Rotor appears to have the key in a more retarded position which is good. Unfortunately Grubee is closed until Feb for their winter break. The YD ignition I don’t think is the same.

 

[Goergedave]

I've been trying to read more about these one pieces. As I noticed mine was just that. From what little I've found I think it's an nr80. I'm about 300 miles on the engine. It pulls great, I have no complaints yet. I did have to buy a new rear wheel as my coaster brake hub blew out. But I'm thinking about dropping down from the 44 tooth as it seems to want to go faster but I'm not willing to push the RPMs too high, I keep pace with cars on a 30 mph speed limit road so I figure I'm going about 35. I need a speedometer to know for sure.

I just use a phone app with precise GPS location. https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.coolniks.niksgps&hl=en_US It offers enough information without nerding out and it keeps a history should you enable that feature. My last trip went from 10:00 - 10:36 and I was idle for about a minute and a half(left turn at a stoplight, I remember that one). My average speed was 16mph with 35 mph as a maximum.

 

[Megaphone]

just breaking mine in all stock ... havent touched anything .. seems jerky at low end ... i havent touched the needle either, Someone mentioned to drop it one notch so im guessing that means to richen it up a bit ?

I would love to retard the timing if that makes it smoother, but have NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO idea what that looks like

 

[FOG]

just breaking mine in all stock ... havent touched anything .. seems jerky at low end ... i havent touched the needle either, Someone mentioned to drop it one notch so im guessing that means to richen it up a bit ?

I would love to retard the timing if that makes it smoother, but have NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO idea what that looks like

Yes. Dropping the clip on the needle one notch will "raise" the needle which results in a richer mixture.